AMERICAN TRENCH - OFFICIAL AFFILIATE THREAD

[jah786]

yarn samples at MTL Weavers

tension and length machine - each bobbin loaded into the loom is custom made from a larger cone of yarn and adjusted for tension and to the correct length to avoid waste. There are HUNDREDS of bobbins used for each loom.

 

[jah786]

this is a warping frame, all of the strands are fed into one machine that winds them into a warp when it then put on the loom and loaded with weft yarns.

MTL creates a warp for each fabric they make. This is HIGHLY uncommon and speaks the level of craft (and cost) of their fabrics. They also make vertical stripes, which are warp stripes, another thing you rarely see.

 

[jah786]

jacquard loom

bobbins for weaving velvet

 

[jah786]

multi-colored velvet. this was one of the craziest things i have ever seen made with my eyes. there is a movie i took and i need to figure out how to post it.

 

[mhip]

The factory was started in 1988 when the founder Michael Hillebrand Scott

fixed

 

[hammerhead_corvette]

Will we be seeing some multicolored velvet track suits for F/W 22?

 

[jah786]

confused, did i get something wrong?

 

[hammerhead_corvette]

confused, did i get something wrong?

It's a reference to the show "The Office" Michael Scott was Steve Carrell's character. The company they worked for was also in Scranton, PA.

 

[jah786]

Will we be seeing some multicolored velvet track suits for F/W 22?

That is actually a really interesting question. The velvet is super heavy, only appropriate for furniture. It's also crazy expensive, almost $200 a yard, at cost. But the biggest issue for me after seeing this amazing factory was trying to figure out what, if anything, to make there. It's not a sure thing that we should make anything there. There is no stock selection, only archive swatches. We would have to create a fabric from scratch which is creatively exciting but also a big risk as that is not a native skill set to our team (woven textile design). The fabrics are all heavy, at the lightest, the fabrics are suitable for chore coats or lightweight outerwear. It makes the most sense to make something that could be sold as a blanket as well as made into outerwear. Even though mins are very low for the fact it is all custom, 120 yards per design, the fabric is very expensive. A cotton wool blend would have the same cost as a noble fiber like a cashmere blend from a European mill. The last thing I saw before we left the mill was a swatch of a custom textile recently commissioned by one of the "it" NYC brands (think quilts), but they sell their garments at retail prices that can more easily support the cost of the textile. Our price points are much more modest. It's not a sure thing that our core customers will be interested in a product like this. Sometimes unique textiles have worked out really well for us (the wool fleece has been very successful) but other times I've tried things and they have not been received well.

 

[chenzhongbi]

I don't think I was aware of the pop-ups at F&P (well I was oblivious to many things in the last two years). When would be the next pop-up or sample sale? Would love to check stuff out in person ☺️

 

[constant struggle]

Hello - I have been a customer for many years (socks, hats, knits)... Do you ever plan to make socks with a seamless linked toe - I would probably buy way more socks if you did.

 

[jah786]

Hello - I have been a customer for many years (socks, hats, knits)... Do you ever plan to make socks with a seamless linked toe - I would probably buy way more socks if you did.

To some degree, it's a function of machinery age and technology at the mills. the Kennedy socks are knit on the latest machines from Lonati of Italy and have a type of machine made seamless toe (pretty wild to see the process). But our thicker socks are knit on older machines and have to be seamed by hand. We test wear everything and I personally try to test everything we make. Our seams don't bother my feet and if they did, I would reject the style, but I know some customers are very sensitive to it, more so than I am. Unfortunately, it is what it is in this area at the moment. If you are sensitive to toe seams, I suggest the Kennedy sock or any derivative of the Kennedy sock (like the Sol sock)

 

[constant struggle]

To some degree, it's a function of machinery age and technology at the mills. the Kennedy socks are knit on the latest machines from Lonati of Italy and have a type of machine made seamless toe (pretty wild to see the process). But our thicker socks are knit on older machines and have to be seamed by hand. We test wear everything and I personally try to test everything we make. Our seams don't bother my feet and if they did, I would reject the style, but I know some customers are very sensitive to it, more so than I am. Unfortunately, it is what it is in this area at the moment. If you are sensitive to toe seams, I suggest the Kennedy sock or any derivative of the Kennedy sock (like the Sol sock)

Thanks! Also I have a few of the blankets - they are also great!

 

[hammerhead_corvette]

That is actually a really interesting question. The velvet is super heavy, only appropriate for furniture. It's also crazy expensive, almost $200 a yard, at cost. But the biggest issue for me after seeing this amazing factory was trying to figure out what, if anything, to make there. It's not a sure thing that we should make anything there. There is no stock selection, only archive swatches. We would have to create a fabric from scratch which is creatively exciting but also a big risk as that is not a native skill set to our team (woven textile design). The fabrics are all heavy, at the lightest, the fabrics are suitable for chore coats or lightweight outerwear. It makes the most sense to make something that could be sold as a blanket as well as made into outerwear. Even though mins are very low for the fact it is all custom, 120 yards per design, the fabric is very expensive. A cotton wool blend would have the same cost as a noble fiber like a cashmere blend from a European mill. The last thing I saw before we left the mill was a swatch of a custom textile recently commissioned by one of the "it" NYC brands (think quilts), but they sell their garments at retail prices that can more easily support the cost of the textile. Our price points are much more modest. It's not a sure thing that our core customers will be interested in a product like this. Sometimes unique textiles have worked out really well for us (the wool fleece has been very successful) but other times I've tried things and they have not been received well.

I could see price being an issue. It would be fun to see some wild print jacket but would anyone buy it? You could always do a styleforum preorder project like SEH Kelly has done if you designed a fabric you liked.

 

[smartbrother]

multi-colored velvet. this was one of the craziest things i have ever seen made with my eyes. there is a movie i took and i need to figure out how to post it.
View attachment 1789727

What does it smell like in here?