Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2017- News, Pictures, Clothing, accessories, etc.

[middlepP]

Haven't been able to find an AE NST that works for me, but I would wear the hell out of those.

Happen to be a 9D!? These are slightly too short for me.

 

[St Hubbins]

Go for the real deal.

This is a weird point probably, but I wish the Baracuta version was 100% cotton. I'm sort of a stickler about natural fabrics when I can be. However, cotton/nylon for a jacket isn't the end of the world. The G4 and G9 are oh, so stylish.

IF they had sent me the right jacket, I'd probably be inclined to keep the knockoff and save up for a proper G4 on sale in khaki because I think there's room in my life for both navy and khaki light jackets.

We'll see what I do. Guilt will probably keep me from spending more and I don't know if I have enough stuff to return to cover the difference without raiding the vault or giving up some of my beloved Bean cords.

 

[ProfilaBinding]

I really don't understand the hate for the Wilbert but it would be a boring world if everyone liked all the same things.

I own one, but I can see why people think of it as an old man shoe. I personally for some reason, associate it as a hunting shoe. It seems a lot of people who hunt wear the Wilbert style. But when you compare it to say the Clark Street, it's really not much different, although the Clark St was much more highly praised.

 

[2Deuce2]

@2Deuce2 did you get your San Marco’s yet?

Thanks for checking back. The San Marco’s came in at the end of the week, but did not fit, as the Poron and last combined for a poor fit. They’re a great looking shoe, and the sole is quite good. I’m a 12D in 511’s, but these fit as if they were an 11.5 C. Not sure what you’d call the pebbled leather finish, but it is decidedly different from the pebbled I’ve had previously.

 

[BespokeBrooklyn]

I'm pretty sure the presenter in the Wilbert video is one of their store manager. If I'm thinking of the right person, she helped size me in a shorter, wider shoe than what I had been wearing, and I've been happier with my fits ever since. She also made a similar remark about the Wilbert while I was in the store -- the subject arose because, at that particular time, it was the only model other than the Park Avenue that they had in stock in my size.

 

[BespokeBrooklyn]

How do your Alden wingtip boots compare to the Dalton? My Daltons are a bit large for me, so I may sell them, rather than get them resoled, and replace them with a smaller pair, possibly of Alden's wingtip boots in #8. But I probably have a few holes in my wardrobe that ought to be filled before I invest in a shell wingtip boot.

 

[Count de Monet]

I own one, but I can see why people think of it as an old man shoe. I personally for some reason, associate it as a hunting shoe. It seems a lot of people who hunt wear the Wilbert style. But when you compare it to say the Clark Street, it's really not much different, although the Clark St was much more highly praised.

There's no logical reason I should have both the Clark Street in natty CXL and the Wilbert in (regular) brown, much less the Black Hills in Walnut, but I have all three. None has a leather sole. The Wilbert is the most comfortable, the BH is maybe built slightly better for rougher weather and the CS maybe the most "sporty."

Your remark about the Wilbert reminding you of a hunter's shoe is interesting because just the other day I was thumbing through the newest LL Bean catalog and thinking the Wilbert could sub in for a "camp shoe" like a ranger moc.

But I like all three.

 

[ProfilaBinding]

There's no logical reason I should have both the Clark Street in natty CXL and the Wilbert in (regular) brown, much less the Black Hills in Walnut, but I have all three. None has a leather sole. The Wilbert is the most comfortable, the BH is maybe built slightly better for rougher weather and the CS maybe the most "sporty."

Your remark about the Wilbert reminding you of a hunter's shoe is interesting because just the other day I was thumbing through the newest LL Bean catalog and thinking the Wilbert could sub in for a "camp shoe" like a ranger moc.

But I like all three.

I used to own all three of those as well. The Clark St had to go, because it was way too loose at the heel. Just trying to keep them on my feet was nearly impossible. The Wilbert is a little loose too, but the heel fit is much better. The leather takes scuffs very well and a little conditioner easily removes them. I recently sold my Badlands because I bought the wrong size, but I am going to eventually pick up another pair. The Badlands will be my best fit when I get the right size. The Malone is another shoe I have that doesn't get worn often, but I would say it's even more comfortable than the Wilbert.

I wore some profila binding today for walnut Wednesday. If this shoe had piping, it would be the perfect poron shoe.

 

[aero25]

Thanks for checking back. The San Marco’s came in at the end of the week, but did not fit, as the Poron and last combined for a poor fit. They’re a great looking shoe, and the sole is quite good. I’m a 12D in 511’s, but these fit as if they were an 11.5 C. Not sure what you’d call the pebbled leather finish, but it is decidedly different from the pebbled I’ve had previously.

Sorry they didn't work out for you. If you haven't sent them back already, share some pics? I'd like to see them "in real life" as opposed to the stock photo.

 

[2Deuce2]

Any Strandmok CXL lovers out there? Thinking of getting a p air with the Dainite sole. Poron in BROOKS Brothers makes the fit very poor. As I’m a 12 D in 65 last, would you recommend I go to an E width due to the Strandmok Poron insole? Thanks in advance for advice.

 

[2Deuce2]

Sorry they didn't work out for you. If you haven't sent them back already, share some pics? I'd like to see them "in real life" as opposed to the stock photo.

Darn I’m sorry they went back quick, and don’t have photos. They look excellent in real life.
, the leather is very different in a good way. It’s as if it has a special coating on it. I think @Neo1 was pretty positive on the San Marco too.

 

[orange fury]

All of this discussion of split toes has prompted me to repost this piece I did in 2016. I also started to wonder where the split toe fell in terms of causal versus dressy. After looking closely at the toes I began to appreciate the subtle variations in assembly, sole, length of split and style of welt that pushes one shoe into the dressier category and another towards the casual. The Stockbridge is a good example of the more casual. It has exposed leather edges on the split and vamp stitching and rubber soles for a far more casual appearance.



The Ashton is remarkably similar, yet some would argue it is even more causal. While the vamp is stitched down as opposed to exposed, the joint in the split is still exposed. More importantly, the storm last is double stitched for a far more rugged and causal appearance. The sole is still rubber as opposed to leather.


The Malone, recently closed out in the shoebank, is still quite causal with a rubber sole, and double stitched welt. The internally joined split toe joint is accompanied by a very delicate vamp seam that is machine closed. This is a faux version of the hand stitch seen later in the Bradley.


The Walton starts to move up the casual scale towards dressier. The split toe seam is no longer exposed as it is joined internally. The vamp is sewn down with three rows of stitching as opposed to two. The sole is a single oak leather, but it is still a storm welt without the double stitch into the side of the shoe.



The LeSalle is getting dressier with the single oak sole, standard welt, internally joined split toe and attractive second row of vamp and split toe stitching.



The Bradley has a prominent line of stitching in the vamp and split toe. This style is usually referred to as a Norwegian Split Toe or NST for short. This double stitching is actually going through the single layer as opposed to closing a joint. This can be done with a machine, but some companies like Alden, do this by hand at 4.5 stitches per inch. AE hand stitches the shell cordovan Bradley, but I am not sure which method was used on the calf Bradleys when they were being made. It is common in some cordovan shoes, but also used in calf. The single oak sole places this in the middle ground of dressy.


The length of the split toe stitch and profile of the toe adds to the dressier style of the shoe. It seems longer split toe seams are seen in dressier shoes, like the Delray.


The length of the split toe stitch, along with hand stitching, is a hallmark of some of the far more expensive shoes. A good example is the toe of this $1500 Sutor Mantellassi loafer.



Unfortunately, the Dickson is an example of AEs failure to self-edit in the split toe length department, with fairly horrid results.



So, those seem to be the variables and now you will have far more to consider when selecting several pairs of split toe shoes for the closet. And you likely never wanted to think this much about the subject.

THIS is the post I was referencing, thank ya sir!

 

[aero25]

Darn I’m sorry they went back quick, and don’t have photos. They look excellent in real life.
, the leather is very different in a good way. It’s as if it has a special coating on it. I think @Neo1 was pretty positive on the San Marco too.

Bummer!
Yes, neo is super high on them. When we were going back and forth about those last week he named them in his personal top 5, I think. Anyway, sorry again they didn't work out for you - on to the next pair!

 

[Shoenut]

A full day with snuff.

 

[jet-stream]

Happen to be a 9D!? These are slightly too short for me.

Regrettably no (11D). What makes it even worse is that the 333 is my favorite AE last by far.