A Sam (and David) Hober Tie Appreciation Thread

[stro]

I am also looking at the same Macclesfield since it's described as a "dark green" base - but the URL says black with a touch of green. Would you say it's more dark green or a black? @stro - would appreciate if you could weigh in too since you have the same one.

Worst-case I'll have to spring for a swatch if I can't figure it out.

it's a deep and dark green.

my dad and i saw it for the first time in the same (suboptimal) light and before we got to a room with a window we had it narrowed down to either dark green or midnight navy (i think there is actually a very similar hober macclesfield in navy - if not now, there used to be, as i had both on my hit list!). all of which is a roundabout way of saying that i don't think you'd mistake it for black.

 

[ndrew]

@jdp234 and @stro - thanks for your help! Good to hear it won't be mistaken for a black tie.

I'll probably swoop if I can pick out a second or third tie to fill out an order.

 

[Concordia]

Does anyone have a lighter green color Macclesfield that they can post pictures of? Looking for something between dark green and lime green.

Not the thread you posted in, but Vanda has some green madders that are not dark.

 

[Captain Waffles]

Wondering if y'all can provide some input...I am starting a basic tie wardrobe and this is what I plan to get from David:

1. Navy/White Shepard's check
2. Navy Blue Grenadine (fina)
3. Burgundy Grenadine (fina)
4. Powder Blue Grenadine (fina) or is Dark Red (Red?) better?
5. Navy with White Pindots (What's the difference between pindot and polkadot?)

I am not sure if there is a difference in formality between grossas, finas, and piccolos though.

For overall construction, I think the features I should be after are:

1. Three-hold
2. Tipped (I assume he will use self-tipping?)

I also take it he creates ties that have the following qualities: a) cut on the bias, b) slip-stitching, c) wool interlining (I read that this should complement the shell - how would I make this decision?), d) bar-tack (I guess I can leave the colour up to him - doesn't seem to matter to me).

 

[SJR3]

Wondering if y'all can provide some input...I am starting a basic tie wardrobe and this is what I plan to get from David:

1. Navy/White Shepard's check
2. Navy Blue Grenadine (fina)
3. Burgundy Grenadine (fina)
4. Powder Blue Grenadine (fina) or is Dark Red (Red?) better?
5. Navy with White Pindots (What's the difference between pindot and polkadot?)

I am not sure if there is a difference in formality between grossas, finas, and piccolos though.

For overall construction, I think the features I should be after are:

1. Three-hold
2. Tipped (I assume he will use self-tipping?)

I also take it he creates ties that have the following qualities: a) cut on the bias, b) slip-stitching, c) wool interlining (I read that this should complement the shell - how would I make this decision?), d) bar-tack (I guess I can leave the colour up to him - doesn't seem to matter to me).

Good choices for starting your tie wardrobe. I'll take a stab at your questions and offer some feedback for what it's worth:

No real difference in formality between the different grenadine weaves. They are all considered fairly formal, though some will make the point that the larger weaves (grossa, prometeo) can be more casual and work better with sport coats. This is a fair point. Since you want multiple grenadines, why not get at least one in a larger weave instead of all fina? That way you've got some variety and you can decide which (if any) you like best.

Personally I don't like powder blue ties. If you're already getting burgundy, no point in getting dark red. Perhaps the better choice for your third grenadine is black. It's versatile because it works well with gray or navy suits, virtually any shirt color, and is also appropriate for funerals. Let's face it, everyone needs to attend those once in a while, and I think that no tie collection is complete without a solid black tie for funerals.

Pindot vs. polka dot... just nomenclature, really. Usually a pindot tie will have smaller dots that are closer together. Polka dots will be larger. You'll find ties with dot patterns all over the spectrum, but generally smaller dots will be more conservative/business appropriate, and truly large dots will be very casual. You can't really go wrong with any of the dotted silks from Hober, though. They are all tastefully done and definitely classic and conservative.

For construction, just specify "standard construction" and David will make the ties according to what's best for the particular silk and there is no additional charge. Standard construction for his grenadine ties is actually 4-fold. Since this is your first order, just get the standard construction so you have a base reference point. Then, if you decided to expand your collection and get really nerdy about ties, you can experiment with 6 or 7 folds, different linings, or even unlined. But you can never go wrong with the standard construction.

As for tipping, self-tipped is the default for Hober ties. You might try one that's untipped with hand rolled edges. It's a really nice touch for only an extra $10. Note though that on grenadines, this results in the tips being somewhat see through due to the loose weave.

Cut on the bias, wool interlining, slip stitching... yes, yes, and yes. Hober doesn't compromise when it comes to quality and construction. Their ties are pretty much as good as it gets. So just know that no matter what you specify, you're getting a high quality, well constructed tie. Since it sounds like you're just getting into nice ties, I'd suggest to just pick the silks you want, decide on your preferred length and width, tell him what knot you tie (hopefully four-in-hand) and let David do the rest. Maybe try one tie that's untipped with hand rolled edges. Don't worry yet about specifying number of folds or anything to do with the lining, bar tack, keeper, etc. Save all that for down the road.

 

[ndrew]

@Captain Waffles:

Basic tie wardrobe for what? Accounting? Real estate agent? Finance? Law?

Pin dots are smaller in size and spacing compared to polka dots, and hence more formal (as long as you do not get any outrageous colours). Navy with white dots is conservative - personally I would even go for yellow or orange dots (conservative enough but with a splash of colour for what I do).

I have no thoughts on the shepherd's check since it is something that is a matter of personal preference.

With the grenadines, I would not order three finas all at once - maybe get one or two, and then grab swatches of the grossa, prometeo and piccola in colours you think you would like. This will cost extra (paying for swatches and a second order) but better to get it right than have buyer's remorse.

I have a burgundy prometeo, and @jdp234's photo at the top of page 474 is a pretty good photo of it I would say. Not a bright red by any stretch but I can't offer a comparison to the dark red since I don't own one - this is where ordering swatches will come in handy.

Ties will come self-tipped unless you specify otherwise (and pay the associated costs).

 

[Captain Waffles]

@SJR3 Hmmm you are right, I can't think of any use for the powdered blue other than for a navy suit. I wear a lot of navy in general, but I don't think it would look good with v-necks, etc.

@ndrew Basic wardrobe for government work and general fashion. Are the Prometeo's even smaller than piccolos? How do you find swatches?

What other colours do you guys suggest for starting out? Did I miss any?

How long does an order take to deliver to New York?

 

[Patrick R]

Wondering if y'all can provide some input...I am starting a basic tie wardrobe and this is what I plan to get from David:

1. Navy/White Shepard's check
2. Navy Blue Grenadine (fina)
3. Burgundy Grenadine (fina)
4. Powder Blue Grenadine (fina) or is Dark Red (Red?) better?
5. Navy with White Pindots (What's the difference between pindot and polkadot?)

I am not sure if there is a difference in formality between grossas, finas, and piccolos though.

For overall construction, I think the features I should be after are:

1. Three-hold
2. Tipped (I assume he will use self-tipping?)

I also take it he creates ties that have the following qualities: a) cut on the bias, b) slip-stitching, c) wool interlining (I read that this should complement the shell - how would I make this decision?), d) bar-tack (I guess I can leave the colour up to him - doesn't seem to matter to me).

You already have two great responses, so first I want to say I agree with both SJR3 and ndrew.

1) I have worn both black/white and navy/white shepherd's check and I like both for weddings and similar situations. I prefer the blue/white, but currently only own the black/white because I gave my blue/white to a friend to wear for his wedding. I generally do not wear ties this formal anywhere other than weddings.

2) I have and wear a navy blue grenadine fina. Highly recommended for all-purpose use.

3) I do not have a burgundy grenadine, but I would wear a fina as often as a navy if I had one.

4) If you want a powder blue tie, I wouldn't go with a grenadine and I would generally only wear it with a white shirt and a mid or light gray suit. Not terribly versatile, but I think it looks great in that pairing. If you have a burgundy, skip dark red. If you want another grenadine, I wear my grossa black to funerals (or when going for an extra sharp look) and I agree with SJR3 that everyone needs a tie for funerals. I also get good use out of my various brown grenadines.

5) It is hard to beat a navy pin dot tie. I would get this first above all others.

With respect to construction, let David Hober do his thing.

Here are some spoilered examples for you:

Spoiler

Navy pin dot with blue shirt, gray suit, navy overcoat:

Navy pin dot with white shirt and gray suit:

Navy grenadine fina with gray suit:

Navy grenadine fina with mid gray flannel:

An example of my preference for a patterned burgundy:

Two uses of the bitter chocolate grenadine fina:

Dark chocolate grenadine fina:

 

[Captain Waffles]

Hmmm - didn't realize Shepard's were THAT formal. I just liked the look in general and would have worn it for general purpose wear from time to time. Would it be bad to do that?

 

[Captain Waffles]

Nice! I am digging the finas. Is the 3rd picture a half-windsor? I might go with the dark red grenadine because the burgundy on his site seems REALLY dark.

 

[Patrick R]

Nice! I am digging the finas. Is the 3rd picture a half-windsor?

It's a four-in-hand. Each of those knots are. Grenadines just tie thicker.

 

[Captain Waffles]

Awesome. I think I will skip on the powdered blue then and just get 4 ties - I am a young guy and just getting into fashion and probably getting too excited about the prospect of getting ties....I don't even have a length/width figured out yet. I thought 3 inch ties were a bit too wide and was leaning towards 2.5 or 2.75, but now others are saying 3 or bust. BTW is the shepard's tie not appropriate for everyday wear?

 

[Patrick R]

I also think that you should have some stripes in your collection. Here are two examples of browns and blues. I now realize I don't have many tie photos on my computer. I'll fix that the next few weeks.

Spoiler

 

[Captain Waffles]

Interesting, where do you get your shirts btw?

 

[Patrick R]

Awesome. I think I will skip on the powdered blue then and just get 4 ties - I am a young guy and just getting into fashion and probably getting too excited about the prospect of getting ties....I don't even have a length/width figured out yet. I thought 3 inch ties were a bit too wide and was leaning towards 2.5 or 2.75, but now others are saying 3 or bust. BTW is the shepard's tie not appropriate for everyday wear?

This is how I wear a Shepherd's check tie:

In that context, I find it to be pretty formal.

With respect to my ties, the narrowest I posted is 3.5". I wouldn't go narrower than 3.25"