A Row of Opportunity: Savile Row's pivot towards RTW

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by Grammaton Cleric, Apr 4, 2014.

  1. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    nah. not for making suits or for labor in general. italy is more expensive than the uk.
     


  2. gegarrenton

    gegarrenton Senior member

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    I wasn't referencing Taub (though some of his stuff would make Stevie Wonder flinch), I was referencing being impressed with G&H. If you impressed by crass commercialization, then fine, but there are plenty of examples of houses paying the bills with other revenue streams in a non vulgar manner. A&S, Poole, etc. have done it for years.

    The comments from Clacher are dismaying.

    “But I am not going to build a global business out of a craft that can make 800 to 1000 suits a year, maximum. It’s about turning Gieves & Hawkes No.1 Savile Row, Britain’s most famous tailoring company, into Gieves & Hawkes No.1 Savile Row, Britain’s most famous menswear brand.”

    <insert vomit>
     


  3. gegarrenton

    gegarrenton Senior member

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    Not in the chinese enclaves.
     


  4. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    There are different factories and different levels of quality offered by each factory, so maybe it's hard to compare. But in terms of numbers, I would guess Italy is higher.

    It would surprise me if wages in Italy were generally higher than wages in UK.
     


  5. Griffyndor

    Griffyndor Senior member

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    Last edited: Apr 4, 2014


  6. unbelragazzo

    unbelragazzo Jewfro Dubiously Honored

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    True to my word, I am surprised. Euro price stickiness is stronger than I thought I guess.
     


  7. dopey

    dopey Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    This is an interesting topic. Perhaps I can write more later, but I think SR bespoke and RTW are not generally a good fit (NPI) as they make different claims. In rare instances, Huntsman, for example it COULD make sense. But SR is really selling something different. The opposite of RTW in fact.
     


  8. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    I don't believe SR has to be that one-dimensional though. If they can preserve, and perhaps feed off the marquee bespoke offering, I don't see why high quality RTW can't make a real impact in the menswear market.

    Many of the big, prestigious luxury brands did also start off as haute couture shops (boasting prices, and workmanship, that would put any bespoke suit to shame).
     


  9. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    [​IMG]

    SR RTW
     


  10. gegarrenton

    gegarrenton Senior member

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    lolwut.
     


  11. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Try typing a complete sentence - this isn't the NMWA thread where typing like a 11-yr old is encouraged.

    And, yes - haute couture pieces have a ridiculous amount of workmanship (far, far above a men's bespoke suit) - there's a reason that most sell for $50K-$100K.
     


  12. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    That actually looks quite good (save the low buttoning pt). Are you carrying your shoes because it was hard to fit in a whole body shot? If so, I applaud your commitment to the iGent cause.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2014


  13. gegarrenton

    gegarrenton Senior member

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    That ridiculous of an assertion doesn't deserve a complete sentence.

    Workmanship has a vertical limit. Both the top of Haute Couture and top bespoke suits reach it. Plenty of Couture and bespoke does not.
     


  14. Claghorn

    Claghorn Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It's my lowest buttoning jacket actually, and has gotten praise for being such. I generally like mine a tad higher, but it's my only DB so I really have no idea where it should be in terms of what fits my body best.

    I like the idea of a few SR tailors going RTW. I definitely like the idea a lot more than "entry level bespoke" which both cheapens the brand and muddies the water. I like some of the SR cuts, and while there are a few tailors out here that do decent Neapolitan/Florentine cuts, none that I know of does British. It's nice knowing that I can get that if I want it without going to England multiple times (also, Mrs. Claghorn will most definitely not allow me to spend more than $2,000 dollars on a suit. Ever. And I don't think there is a decent SR tailor that starts that low).

    (and the shoe thing is a bit of a joke with the WAYWRN crowd. My wife and I don't wear shoes inside the house, and after there were suggestions that I actually don't own shoes or don't have feet or that I wear high heels, action needed to be taken)
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2014


  15. Grammaton Cleric

    Grammaton Cleric Senior member

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    Anyone with even a passing familiarity with men's bespoke and genuine haute couture will know that I'm not the one being ridiculous here. Top bespoke comes nowhere close to haute couture levels of workmanship. And, just to be clear, I'm not referring to any designer brand that throws the word couture on a cocktail dress.

    On second thought, stick to your "100% no", "lolwut" responses - they were more instructive.
     
    Last edited: Apr 5, 2014


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