3sixteen Denim Series, Bracelets, Shirts...

[PeterParker]

Almost one year:

 

[Racove]

Originally Posted by APK

Got my duffel coat in the mail this morning. Big thanks to Andrew for tipping me off on an off-the-radar sneaker boutique I could grab the seemingly sold out coat. The Good

• The Fit: Fit has become my most obsessed trait about clothing since I joined SF. That meant a fair number of outwear suddenly seemed inferior. This coat provides a slim cut that doesn't restrict range of motion. I originally considered a medium, but am glad I pulled the trigger on the large. A medium would've pulled across the back too much and made wearing anything more than a t-shirt a dicey endeavor. The size I went with gives enough room for layering without fitting like a sack. The length of the sleeves is perfect. I've always struggled to find jackets or coats with a sleeve length that didn't prove to be too short or long. The sleeves on this coat are the perfect length, whether my arms are at my sides or I'm extending them out.
• The Material: There's a balance of softness and sturdiness with the material. It won't ever get compared to the texture of butter. At the same time, it doesn't feel as though I should be concerned about lighting matches while wearing the coat. I think this balance makes for a feeling of toughness that you want in a winter coat.
• The Toggles: The toggles were honestly what had me look past this piece when I saw it in the lookbook. Now, I'm really digging them. What's great about this coat is that there's also a zipper, which means you don't have to use the toggles if you don't want to. If that's the case, the toggles fit easily under the zipper flap and will hold in place.
• The Removable Hood: The winds in Michigan can get pretty intense. If you have short-cut hair like I do, it makes some sort of headgear a necessity. I don't always like to wear a hat, though, so it's nice to have the option of a sturdy hood for those really blustery days. But by the same token, I think a hood can make a piece of outwear seem more casual. This is the type of coat that can be integrated into a "grown man's" outfit. Because of that, the hood might look a little out of place. But that's no problem, since you can just unbutton the hood and pop that collar for a pretty slick, sophisticated look. Speaking of the collar...
• The Collar: This might be my favorite part of the coat other than the fit. I think popped collars look ridiculous on shirts, but with the right coat, it adds that extra oomph of steeze to your aesthetic. The collar on this coat is thick enough to stay popped. It's also pretty tall, which along with its thickness, makes it ideal for blocking out crosswinds.

The Bad

• The Pockets: My one gripe about the coat. Maybe I'm just used to wearing coats and jackets with slanted pockets, but my hands feel a bit uncomfortable resting in these vertical pockets. I dig slanted pockets, because of the natural way you can slide your paws into them. With vertical pockets, you have to manipulate your wrists a bit to put your hands in them.
• The Thickness: I'm hoping this doesn't prove to be a detriment, but I was surprised by how light the coat is. The write up about the coat on 3Sixteen's Web site made it sound like there's some additional lining for added warmth. I'm not really seeing that. Considering the price tag, I expected perhaps a bit more heft to the coat. I'm optimistic that the material and length of the coat will answer the challenge of keeping me warm during a Michigan winter. Overall A beautiful coat with great detailing and a cut that anyone fashion-conscious person is going to appreciate. There's real versatility here. It's appropriate for dressier occasions, but can be easily integrated into a casual, everyday context. If taken care of, I think the duffel will prove to be a staple in any owner's wardrobe.

Thought I'd chime in on this review. I've got one in the Camel color. Highlights: The fit (fits great TTS, but size up if your > 6' tall), the material (nice texture & color) and the perfect collar (it stands perfectly). Looks amazing in pretty much every detail. Really happy with the overall look. It seems to turn heads. Minor grievances: --No two-way zipper is quite annoying for a 3/4 length coat. Have to hike it up like a dress or untoggled and unzip the whole thing to take a piss. --The lining. I dunno, just seems cheap to me. It's too shiny and its not stitched together throughout the hood. basically its pillows out all over the place. --I really thought it'd be thicker/more substantial. Probably more versatile for most people and I might even prefer this too in the long run. But January is quite cold in Chicago. Luckily, it layers well. --Great color but light enough to pick up indigo from my jeans. Unfortunate, but its to be expected. Main gripe: The hood. It won't stay up! It's enormous, especially down low near the collar. It lacks the throat latch of a typical duffle. I have to pull it all the way down til the hood is in my eyes just for it to rest on my head. Then, just the slightest bit of wind and it falls right off! Its pretty much worthless. Only good for a quick dash through the snow/rain and you have to hold the hood down w/ your hands the whole time! Pretty awful & I hope you remembered your gloves. In case you're wondering, the hood measures 16.5" tall. Also, one of the hood buttons keeps coming undone like once a day. Usually its when taking the coat off or on. I'd imagine that a couple quick stitches to narrow the whole could fix this though. Combined w/ the aforementioned lining issue, its best just to unbutton the hood.

 

[enigma77]

Denim question:

Asked something similar in the non-APC thread, but how much will the waist in the SL indigo (100x) stretch and shrink? I'm most concerned/interested in the stretch, as I feel like I've seen a bunch of people selling their less-than-1-year-old 3sixteens on Sufu and B&S lately citing stretching and posting waist measurements that are definitely larger than what size charts call for (e.g. a size 31 with a 34" waist).

Are these isolated cases maybe? Or is this something that people have experienced?

 

[rzarector36]

Originally Posted by rzarector36

Ok I need some help, if i'm in the wrong place just let me know please. I'm interested in buying the SL-200x black denim, I can't decide what size to get. I have a pair of APC rescues size 31 that I have been wearing for a while but I still think they are a little too tight around my thigh( I am skinny but kinda have fat thighs). I'm 6', like 160 lbs

I want them to fit a little looser than the rescues I have, I was thinking getting a 33 in SL-200x??

repost

 

[PeterParker]

Originally Posted by enigma77

Denim question: Asked something similar in the non-APC thread, but how much will the waist in the SL indigo (100x) stretch and shrink? I'm most concerned/interested in the stretch, as I feel like I've seen a bunch of people selling their less-than-1-year-old 3sixteens on Sufu and B&S lately citing stretching and posting waist measurements that are definitely larger than what size charts call for (e.g. a size 31 with a 34" waist). Are these isolated cases maybe? Or is this something that people have experienced?
The 100x denim doesn't stretch much (less than an inch from my experience). The key is to size them properly from the start. Keep in mind that these are vanity sized (a tagged 30 measures more than 30" in the waist), by about 2 sizes. The best sizing advice I can give is to measure the waist on a pair of your worn in jeans that fit comfortably, and go with the size that measures about 0.5" less so that they will stretch out to fit comfortably. The denim is sanforized so shrinking is minimal and there is no need to allow for initial room in the waist to compensate for shrinkage.

Originally Posted by rzarector36

Ok I need some help, if i'm in the wrong place just let me know please. I'm interested in buying the SL-200x black denim, I can't decide what size to get. I have a pair of APC rescues size 31 that I have been wearing for a while but I still think they are a little too tight around my thigh( I am skinny but kinda have fat thighs). I'm 6', like 160 lbs I want them to fit a little looser than the rescues I have, I was thinking getting a 33 in SL-200x??
It sounds like tight is subjective. Based on your height/weight, your thighs would have to be enormously out of proportion to the rest of your body to find the Rescues too tight. A 33 in the SL's sounds like it would be much too large for you. Your waist would also need to be out of proportion to fit into the SL's if you sized up for the room in the thighs, otherwise they will be falling off. For what it's worth, I am 5'9" and 160lbs and I wear a 30 in 3sixteen. Perhaps you just prefer a looser fit? If you're looking for something more relaxed in the thigh, then perhaps the SL isn't the right cut because it is a similar cut to the New Standard, which is a slimmer cut than the Rescue. You might want to consider the Iron Heart 634s for a more relaxed cut.

 

[APK]

I haven't had any gripes about the hood, but then again, I detached it the first day I owned the coat and haven't reattached it.

Like I said in my initial critique, it could be thicker, but that hasn't been an issue for me so far. I think that's mostly because it's been relatively mild for a Michigan January. I wore a thick hoodie under it yesterday, though, and it fit well under there without looking bulky.

 

[enigma77]

Originally Posted by PeterParker

The 100x denim doesn't stretch much (less than an inch from my experience). The key is to size them properly from the start. Keep in mind that these are vanity sized (a tagged 30 measures more than 30" in the waist), by about 2 sizes.

The best sizing advice I can give is to measure the waist on a pair of your worn in jeans that fit comfortably, and go with the size that measures about 0.5" less so that they will stretch out to fit comfortably. The denim is sanforized so shrinking is minimal and there is no need to allow for initial room in the waist to compensate for shrinkage.


It sounds like tight is subjective. Based on your height/weight, your thighs would have to be enormously out of proportion to the rest of your body to find the Rescues too tight. A 33 in the SL's sounds like it would be much too large for you. Your waist would also need to be out of proportion to fit into the SL's if you sized up for the room in the thighs, otherwise they will be falling off. For what it's worth, I am 5'9" and 160lbs and I wear a 30 in 3sixteen.

Perhaps you just prefer a looser fit? If you're looking for something more relaxed in the thigh, then perhaps the SL isn't the right cut because it is a similar cut to the New Standard, which is a slimmer cut than the Rescue. You might want to consider the Iron Heart 634s for a more relaxed cut.

Man. Detailed responses FTW.

I also agree that you may not get what you want with the 3sixteen SLs if you like the rescues. I wear a size 31 (ish) in NS and actually just tried on a 31 Rescue the other day out of curiosity and it was too big (and this is before the Dreaded APC Stretching Problem; these were new off the rack). Some of the new Nudie sizes seem larger, which you may want to check out... Haven't had a chance to try them on myself... http://www.selfedge.com/shop/index.p...index&cPath=66 Or maybe the 5EP low down boot?

Just called Self Edge today, and they are OUT OF STOCK of the middle-ish sizes of the 3sixteen SLs until, like, forever (no for serious: mid- to late-February, which is highly unfortunate). Just FYI.

 

[jghcgh59053]

My ST100x Worn pretty much everyday for 5 months.

Gonna wash them soon, then get started on a pair of ST210.

 

[constantine.]

^ Those look awesome. Did you size down?

 

[jghcgh59053]

Originally Posted by constantine.

^ Those look awesome. Did you size down?

Thanks, wondering if I should enter them in the competition...

I sized down one - these are w29.

 

[ajchen]

Definitely enter them into the competition. I think they're going to look great after a wash...

 

[PeterParker]

Cross-post from SuFu:

3sixteen SL-100x, Lot 001 @ 1 year.

I remember when I first got these; they were my second pair of raw denim. I was apprehensive about the fit at first and so I didn't wear them regularly. Then I tried cuffing them, a look which I didn't think I would be into. I even got **** from one of my coworkers about it, saying that I should have bought jeans with the proper length inseam. Well, ****'im, the look grew on me and soon my first pair of raws were cast aside and I found myself wearing the SL's daily.

I've enjoyed wearing these for the better part of the last year (at least 5 days a week). I wore them for everything from traveling to Japan to working underneath my car. I now understand the beauty of a pair of jeans that ages with you. For inquisitive minds, these were washed a handful of times, mostly by hand, with the first wash at six months and monthly washes thereafter.

Enough talking. Here are some photos.

The last shall be first.

The Kaihara denim doesn't produce very high contrast fades. The fades are subtle, but the combs are still visible and some train tracks are peeking through. I like that the fades are visible on the selvage outseam on the inside, and that the indigo bled through behind the knees.

The custom fly buttons with the "3S" insigina are one of my favorite features of these jeans. I noticed that the later lots, and even Lot 001 of the ST's only have the 3S button for the top fly button, unlike the Lot 001 SL's. When I've finally worn these to rags, I think I will salvage the buttons as a memento of the jeans. I really like the deeper shade of indigo here:

Again, the customized rivets add a nice touch. I saw some detail shots of the SL-200 which appeared to have plain rivets. Hopefully that was just a one-off because the customized hardware makes the jeans that much more special. Again, the depth of colour in the indigo is mesmerizing.

Probably my favourite sign of wear on the jeans: some fraying of the warp yarns where the jeans were cuffed. I guess this is from the stitching on the inside of the hem rubbing against the denim (from the double cuff). The roping at the hem isn't very pronounced; the chainstitch started to unravel shortly after I started wearing the jeans, so I think the tension which usually produces roping was lacking. You can see the white thread my aunt used to keep the chainstitch from unraveling.

The Tanner leather patch is thick and gorgeous. It really has aged well with the denim and contrasts nicely against the indigo. I could stare for hours just admiring the shades of indigo in the denim. There's a bit of a greenish hue which creates a lovely colour.

By no means am I finished wearing these jeans, but I think I'm ready for a new denim voyage. I will probably wear these in rotation with a new pair of jeans as my go-to pair. While technically not my first pair of raw denim, these really were my first. And you know what they say, you never forget your first.

Until next time...

 

[jghcgh59053]

Originally Posted by Arwaiyne Warr

My ST100x

Worn pretty much everyday for 5 months.

Gonna wash them soon, then get started on a pair of ST210.

thanks guys i appreciate your comments. all the 3sixteens on here are looking real good.

kixslf - how are the st210s looking now?

unfortunately i couldn't hold out any longer on my pair - an accident involving a greasy kebab made such a mess i had to wash them. so here is the result. after 5 months of constant wear. i think they turned out quite good, but still a lot left in them and i will be wearing them for a long time to come. they've served me well so far and i look forward to seeing how they age even more. here we go...

 

[ahjota]

Here's a question for you.

The crossed back yoke on the utility shirts. I like the detail. Does it do anything functionally? Easier to wear?

 

[yyliew]

your patch is looking real good. did you oil it?