Rubinacci shirts in London? Udeshi?

Concordia · Sep 18, 2014

I'll be passing through London soon, and while I don't really need a new shirtmaker, it's never too early to put together a farm team. Looking away from the usual Jermyn Street/Savile Row suspects, has anyone recently used Rubinacci or Udeshi? Any other newcomers or forgotten old-timers?

SartodiNapoli · Sep 19, 2014

Since Anna Mattuozzo is not the shirtmaker of Rubinacci ( lots of years ago) the Rubi shirts are not very good, and omho the worst product they do so barely can be compared with the rest of neapolitan shirts. I would recommend you to chose another brand for far better price/quality.

Gus · Sep 19, 2014

Udeshi shirts are a very nice MTM. (He measures you and has them sewn in Italy) I had good luck with my last purchases 2 years ago. However, the house style can be a bit left or right of true classic. But he is happy to adjust to any specific requests. I did regret going with a more aggressive cutaway house design collar. It looks cool but for everyday wear it is limited. If you want the "James Bond" turn back cuffs he offers them. Udeshi is quite a fan of the early Bond movie tailoring. That in itself is a fun discussion.

The prices are a good value and he offers pretty quick turn around. He has only a one shirt minimum so I would say give him a try.

Concordia · Sep 19, 2014

pocketsquareguy said:
I did regret going with a more aggressive cutaway house design collar. It looks cool but for everyday wear it is limited.

Luckily, there's not a chance of my biting on this one-- or being offered one, for that matter.

I already do shirts with NsM (as English a pattern as they're likely to generate), so a slightly Italian approach in an English shop won't necessarily hurt. OTOH, I might also try Budd and Drake's, just in case.

Grammaton Cleric · Sep 19, 2014

^ I would go w/ Budd. Udeshi always gives me a weird 'we cater to Russian billionaires vibe' - absurdly priced as well.

Drake's doesn't offer bespoke.

udeshi · Sep 19, 2014

Wow cool, given we have no Russian billionaires but people who actually love clothes and have cabbies, teachers, doctors, artists, CEOs but no Russians, I guess single needle stitching, thick pearl buttons and Swiss Alumo fabrics makes me a trusted supplier to oligarchs, and how our MTM is cheaper than off the rack RLPL makes us absurdly expensive. We'll ignore the fact that I discourage monograms as I think my client's know who they are and don't wake up in the morning with amnesia nor do piping on shirts or crystal buttons or decorative hand stitching that serves no purpose whatsoever except to show the poor taste of the wearer, but hey what do I know. Oh by the way, my name is oscar udeshi and my email is [email protected] This is why I stay off forums.

marcodalondra · Sep 20, 2014

SartodiNapoli said:
Since Anna Mattuozzo is not the shirtmaker of Rubinacci ( lots of years ago) the Rubi shirts are not very good, and omho the worst product they do so barely can be compared with the rest of neapolitan shirts. I would recommend you to chose another brand for far better price/quality.

I know who makes the shirt for them and it is the most respected shirting operations in Naples for over three generations, albeit it is a 4 pass hand finished shirt, and directly from the source cost 1/3 of Rubinacci prices

JensenH · Sep 20, 2014

marcodalondra said:
I know who makes the shirt for them and it is the most respected shirting operations in Naples for over three generations, albeit it is a 4 pass hand finished shirt, and directly from the source cost 1/3 of Rubinacci prices

Do they make the Rubinacci RTW shirts as well?

koolbear · Sep 20, 2014

udeshi said:
Wow cool, given we have no Russian billionaires but people who actually love clothes and have cabbies, teachers, doctors, artists, CEOs but no Russians, I guess single needle stitching, thick pearl buttons and Swiss Alumo fabrics makes me a trusted supplier to oligarchs, and how our MTM is cheaper than off the rack RLPL makes us absurdly expensive. We'll ignore the fact that I discourage monograms as I think my client's know who they are and don't wake up in the morning with amnesia nor do piping on shirts or crystal buttons or decorative hand stitching that serves no purpose whatsoever except to show the poor taste of the wearer, but hey what do I know. Oh by the way, my name is oscar udeshi and my email is [email protected] This is why I stay off forums.

Maybe grow a thicker skin buddy. Sometimes people say negative things about others on the internet. Maybe I should have a rant because you consider my shirts to be in poor taste.

brokentelephone · Sep 20, 2014

Those mega-spread Udeshi collars are ridonkulous.

marcodalondra · Sep 20, 2014

JensenH said:
Do they make the Rubinacci RTW shirts as well?

They may well do, not sure, but they do their bespoke since it was again outsourced

JensenH · Sep 20, 2014

marcodalondra said:
They may well do, not sure, but they do their bespoke since it was again outsourced

Thanks. I have some RTW shirts from them and they seem well-made.

SartodiNapoli · Sep 21, 2014

udeshi said:
Wow cool, given we have no Russian billionaires but people who actually love clothes and have cabbies, teachers, doctors, artists, CEOs but no Russians, I guess single needle stitching, thick pearl buttons and Swiss Alumo fabrics makes me a trusted supplier to oligarchs, and how our MTM is cheaper than off the rack RLPL makes us absurdly expensive. We'll ignore the fact that I discourage monograms as I think my client's know who they are and don't wake up in the morning with amnesia nor do piping on shirts or crystal buttons or decorative hand stitching that serves no purpose whatsoever except to show the poor taste of the wearer, but hey what do I know. Oh by the way, my name is oscar udeshi and my email is [email protected] This is why I stay off forums.

SartodiNapoli · Sep 21, 2014

udeshi said:
Wow cool, given we have no Russian billionaires but people who actually love clothes and have cabbies, teachers, doctors, artists, CEOs but no Russians, I guess single needle stitching, thick pearl buttons and Swiss Alumo fabrics makes me a trusted supplier to oligarchs, and how our MTM is cheaper than off the rack RLPL makes us absurdly expensive. We'll ignore the fact that I discourage monograms as I think my client's know who they are and don't wake up in the morning with amnesia nor do piping on shirts or crystal buttons or decorative hand stitching that serves no purpose whatsoever except to show the poor taste of the wearer, but hey what do I know. Oh by the way, my name is oscar udeshi and my email is [email protected] This is why I stay off forums.

This guy offends us real shirtmakers who have been training on hand stitching for years as well all the clientele of handmade shirts saying " decorative hand stitching that serves no purpose whatsoever except to show the poor taste of the wearer," but spams the forum.

OMHO, after watching his shirts with plastic buttons, copying the neapolitan cuff but calling neapolitan shirtmakers " bad tasters" and products with skullbones, not the most appropiate to give lessons about good taste...

Please ban

Thank you

Concordia · Sep 21, 2014

SartodiNapoli said:
This guy offends us real shirtmakers who have been training on hand stitching for years as well all the clientele of handmade shirts saying " decorative hand stitching that serves no purpose whatsoever except to show the poor taste of the wearer," but spams the forum.

Please ban

Nonsense. But if the shirt fits...

Rubinacci shirts in London? Udeshi?

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