Rubinacci shirts in London? Udeshi?

[marcodalondra]

Sarto,

You may have a certificate of completing Kiton own internal training course designed to form workers to work on their production line (handmade, but still a production line). For a degree you would have needed to attend an University and you do not even have an officially recognised Italian Ministry of Education Diploma (for those we have high schools).
Aside of your writing that I still struggle to understand, you have proven over and over again that you are confused between marketing hyped RTW handmade operations, and true artisans (as the shirting operations have always been in Naples).

Did your study included the shirts made in France, and France general influence on Neapolitan society between 1780 and 1810 approx???

They sell you stories as they still see you as an outsider, pretty sure about it. Even the people you consider friends in shops and other places talk about you as Francisco the funny spaniard....

Yokeless, no joke less. I never said it could not be made, I said that it does not make sense make in it. as it won't fit properly unless is made with fabrics like the ones used in polo shirt.

Btw, I am not in the industry, but curios enough that have been growing with shirts and suit being made for everyone in my family, and having spent the best part of 4 years discussing and trying new shirtmakers, I know quite a bit about it.

Piccolo has ordered exsclusive runs off books they prepare for each seasons, the same thing aristons and Drapers do with Carlo Barbera (they rarely have the same fabrics)

I have seen bolt of fabrics all over town, in big and small operations marked "produced by Testa exclusively for Piccolo"

 

[marcodalondra]

double post

 

[udeshi]

So sorry Andrey, you are absolutely right! I apologize unreservedly. Next time you are in London I will make it up to you.

 

[Griffindork]

Charvet full mesure starts at 400E. T&R price goes up based on the price of fabric. So about the same amount as kiton off the rack. I will happily post a fit pick of my charvet. Let's see one of your kiton as well.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

I have the diploma, that is the real word for it, and with the Italian Republic official stamps i got to buy on tobacco shop ( shocking was buying this official things on a cigar shop, this is for real. )

Because I have been studying in other places, i do not live on the internet or use the internet to send pm to foreigners to get profits shilling to x tailor, so stop offending me and lying as you always do when refering to me.

Quotte from you;

Yokeless, no joke less. I never said it could not be made, I said that it does not make sense make in it. as it won't fit properly unless is made with fabrics like the ones used in polo shirt.


Me, that was not your original answer, and sorry to say you are disguissing it, but any way, with this answer, it´s obvious your knowledge about shirtmaking is simply poor, and nothing bad about it we do not born on the shirt, as an Italian sentece is literally " born with the shirt", unless is used, again to fake or offense . And now talking as patternmaker and shirtmaker again, knowing the technique you lack of.



If you like shirts, i invite you to do the same path i did, but with humildty and honestly, the same until today i have never found on your continue insults to Truth and to me as well, even i pardon this second as Christian.

I studied shirtmaking and doing High Tailoring for personal growth, independing of my family being 99 years on the textile world, or me having working on it until i reached the directive task with only 27 years old, a hard to beat C.V.

For education i can´t publish what i have listened about you in some places i asked as well, and by the way those any were friends of mine as you again lied saying it tryng to bash a honest person you hate because he is demounting a lot of your facts as i do and will do with those who do not act properly and lower the dignity of the sartorial world.

For being my friend, one has to have Higher Values and do not lie or scam. I chose my friends and until there i can talk. For example, several of your clients pushed on pm using this forum to spam to several of your tailors that at this time have not supplied the paid items. That is public and notorious even on several other forums, but i know this straight from bounced clients, now clients of mine.

Also how is, demounting again your not real fact, that you have been buying "produced exclusively", and then how is that the same design is here and there? Yes that sticker on the plastic or carton rolls do exits, i got some used to protect and bulk on the box myself with other names on coming from several mills, the true word is not woven or done exclusively, is perhaps " splitted from the 240 meter limited run roll for x".

An again, on the contrary of myself of what some not tailors but just sellers do think, you are the outsider, and nothing wrong on it, on the contrary on the offensive meaning you used for my humble person, you have never been into any factory or are direct client or receive letters, emails or phonecalls promoting this limited run fabrics that no exclusive, and you just repeat the marketing or selling facts a seller has told you, like per example on a car shop, yes Citroen is Better than Maserati because it consumes less petrol and bla bla bla.

I would like to ask you, how is that you can´t differ a relabeled low cost xxx 90 cm width passed as Riva.
As you said, those you called friends said how much " do you know about fabrics" if you can´t id just from touching so different products and finishings as those are, like a lemon from a peach? Just asking myself, again to demount fake facts.

And how is that you recommend on the forums to get fabrics that in most places are seconds and thirds sold as first class, but you do not know it but self say, " how much do i know about fabrics" that i pasted it and emailed to a lot of real insiders and shirtmakers in Naples and the answer was obvious, and this letter is not a personal attack as the infinite ones i suffer from you, as i am not interested on argue, but an advert to innocent customers, to again, as i always defend, do not get a lower product at a price over a top class.

With this i hope to stop reading faking facts on my studies, offenses etc to my humble person and i invite you to walk my path as i said if you like shirts, but not faking.

Best wishes.

 

[udeshi]

I think Citroen once owned Maserati. FYI.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Kabbaz shirts involve no hand stitching (except for attaching the buttons).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Alexander Kabbaz

And you know darn well my opinion of the lack of durability of the Borelli hand-stitching.

Quote from this thread: http://www.styleforum.net/t/5561/alex-kabbaz-shirts-worth-the-money

Thanks, let me read the thread. I hope he is not bashing any handstitching shirt to hype himself, as i was fan of him and his shirt fit, the only
thing i could examine, was good.

I chatted once with him, and recommended me to clean the collars and cuffs so i share with you all shirt fans, COLGATE EXAGON SOAP.

Have any of you tried it? I might buy one on Ebay to try it but i think i have been using a similar super alcaline with PH14 one all my life for that task.

EDITED after i readed all the thread i am very dissapointed and it seems he did another sin that is publishing his famous buyers ( well I am not very sure if was himself, but another poster mentioned he did for the Rockefellers, and from any source has to come that info, i doubt from the owners of almost everything as they are)

I am very sorry he did bashing Borrelli and/or general handmade garments, from now another idol has fallen, also called mass market Borrelli, when it was not. Who could pay the retail of a Borrelli shirt, or a 180 euros tie that are hard to be beaten? Sure not a 19 euros Zara tie or a 25 euros shirt. I also would like to know what he or his clients did to get a handmade shirt do not last, using bleach, agressive american hotel laundries, hot water, driers, street laundries with agressive detergent we Europeans have only seen on tv, cheap home irons, just curious o could evaluate on what basis he is saying that.

I wonder why almost all tailors lack of the most basic humildty and have to bash others that are tons of times over them? I have readed horrible Spaniard tailors saying there were over Savile and Naples, very mediocre Milanese saying the same, even some run on the mill neapolitans saying they bashed the big names.

I will pass to post this on that post, even I would like.

Kabbaz said;

And you know darn well my opinion of the lack of durability of the Borelli hand-stitching. To enjoy is fine; to compare a mass-market advertising gimmick to any good custom shirtmaker is ludicrous.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

16 minutes ago​

• 

• udeshi

• Posts: 8
• Joined: 9/2009
• Location: London

​

I think Citroen once owned Maserati. FYI.

​

Yes that is true, back 40 years ago but you know what i meant with the comparation, as american movie used car seller facts, as on True Lies movie lol


Here this beauty interior ;http://www.classicdriver.com/en/article/cars/citro-n-sm-cabriolet-most-beautiful-maserati-ever

 

[marcodalondra]

Sarto Francisco from Spain,

I am fortunate enough that I can just afford my clothing and do not need to learn to make them not to be conned by others in the perennial search for cheap but quality items.

I do not need not want to get money from tailors or Shirtmaker and I pay for my Bespoke garments (obviously neapolitan prices).


I do not have clients on this forum from my past experiences in consultancy, and certainly not for what I am doing now (completely unrelated to clothing), so again do not know what the hell you are on about. (Seriously, you must see a doctor).


I am an insider because I am from there. We speak in neapolitan with tailors and other artisans. I have visited a couple of factories but more importantly many workshops and merchants, as I am interested in Bespoke no RTW with hand details. No matter what, you are an outsider and people describe you as such (for kindness to the shop owners will not say who they are).



I have already explained at naseum that I have not conned anyone and the people that had time and comms issues with a shirtmaker I no longer use myself, have confirmed NOT to be your clients, so you must be dreaming because clients should be paying you for goods and/or services supplied by you, which as far as I have heard, never happen.

I appreciate and understand the difference on my shirting. I can but 10 eur a meter shirting or 45 e and know the difference, my grandma did, so can I. All my Riva came from the most reputable shop in the city, that sadly closed, and even the competitors miss him.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Marco the one who said he was invited to the Royal Ascott in London, the party with the Royal Family and the elite of the world and the strange women hats, no wonder if after reading this years ago, i couldn´t take you seriously as same as after demounting all the lies and fake facts since time ago, i couldn´t do, the same way you open thread telling this things who i pasted and emailed a lot of top tailors on Naples, and the laughs were loud;



MarcoQUOTE;

so much so that Mr Piccolo was very enthusiastic about my knowledge of fabric and tailoring in general. He was also full of praise for my shirtmaker, Vincenzo Prisco, even thought they also make shirts in House. I left with a "millerighe" in medium blue and the lightest sky blue Fil a Fil (ends on ends) both from Testa (the millerighe was Atelier Romentino by Testa)


Me;
You said, again not knowing what fair and kind means, you already mentioned the one, or gave enough easy clues so the honour of that fabric seller has been put down. An applause again, using rumours to lower the honour of a third person but using it as an try to offend me, that by any reason i got offended. I say, how poor of soul is this person, who has to use dishnourable facts to bash another, and by the way, get another third person as the fabric seller got dishonoured. Poor soul.



Me; again, your knowledge of fabric that can´t id seconds or thirds offered as first class or not Riva labelled as it and you now said as a cheap excuse in order to do not face in public the mistakes you continue to do,in your words; I ( meaning you) just bought a cut of Riva, that was not Riva but you continue saying it, to having more clients from forums, instead of having humildty and face it, an applause from an " outsider " as me to a " consultant" as you.



i do not care about what those fabric sellers as i repeat, that no tailors or arthisans as i said do think about me, it is me that for basic education can´t say in public what I have listened about you, or from forum members you messaged to push to your tailor friends even you are denying again, this that is well know on the forum. Not my problem you lack of the basic personality or honour to face that. And again, i am demounting another, fact, if you are only worried about arthisans, how is that you mention and go to talk to one that is not arthisan but just fabric seller? One more fact demounted. I am not sure until what step you are for real with all this childish or ridiculous things that even can´t stand by themself. For me is just an exercise of diagnose of Narcissistic behaviour and compulsive lies that fall by themselves, i also paste this cases to my Uni cathedrathics and all them agree.





And for last time, you lie again, i paste; Marco;



I have already explained at naseum that I have not conned anyone and the people that had time and comms issues with a shirtmaker I no longer use myself, have confirmed NOT to be your clients, so you must be dreaming because clients should be paying you for goods and/or services supplied by you, which as far as I have heard, never happen.





Me; A client you send to that shirtmaker WHO IS MY CLIENT even you deny it or not, i have the receipts to have sent him goods several times, you deny it and lie, not my problem. An issue of compulsive liars that can´t handle the truth. I wonder what you will invent in order to be over the truth ad nauseam using your words.





Now that again i have demounted your fake facts, you start with personal attacks as that i need to see a doctor, by the way, both my parents are doctors, as 3 cousins living on this same building, and soon myself might got a doctorate, but not in medicine but in psychology. Narcissistic behaviour, being always over the rest, is the symbton i can describe, as did months ago, also is " projecting" in others the symbton. It seems not myself who needs to visit a professional, sorry to say.



It has been said, that your shirtmaker did not delivered both several customers from the forum and you, as well as another customer of mine who continues without being delivered. If you deny this real fact, not my problem, the truth is the truth even you or other denies it as well as bash me as real professional to so you continue having clients for what you now describe as " consultant", as you seem to disslike any other with far more knowledge being on " your area". To what famous neapolitan association can we link that behaviour?



If you continue faking my work, my honour, my masters and my studies, the ones considered the best alive, who teached part of the bespoke tailors you do not know or have any clue about, again is not my problem. You continue faking and offending people as me, and i can´t tolerate that attempt to my honour, specially from one who has the dishonour to have sent people to who seem to be not honest, and cowardly faking and hidding it. Not my problem again, is up to you. Denyng you sent pms to lot of people to recommend to your tailors as denying the Sun shines every morning, well, is up to you. Not my problem.



By things as this,my friends, top tailors asked me to keep their names out of forums, as they lose top industrialist and aristocratic clients, the ones who can pay those over 3 or 4000 euros price, as having this kind of people around will make them lose clientele. Now you can continue calling rtw with hand details wrongly by deep uknowledge and narcissistic behaviour this tailors, who sorry to say again, are on the top 5, and that is not an " outsider invention" but a true fact. Nothing bad on you promote affordable tailors, not everyone has a large bank account, but you can´t digest others do have as personal friends,or masters the elite of the tailoring, that you lie calling " rtw operators" while most of them have any do any rtw but full bespoke, the same full bespoke you said i do not know. An applause.



The tailor of the Saint Father, the Pope, is another rtw operator with hand made detailrs? Who i have got lessons from him as well ( i do not live on the Internet and do not open threads as I went to x, i bought xx as you per example do, my sane selftsteem do not depends of what others think about me, not as the insane one of others who depend of what others say or think about him, or even, again on an insane symbton, as well of a unglentleman is, to try to offend another using rumours or revealing private conversations, as by the way, you menaced me to do. An applause again.



People know me and know i am a honest person that will always will expose people who are not honest and act like, this remember me the fruit sellers of Naples who i daily bought 1 kilo but always tried to sell me 700 grams, even the weight showed 700 grams they were happy to try to fool me or all the pedestrians.


Again you fake saying that i scammed clients, there is no existing people who have paid me and not get his good, THAT FAKE ACCUSATION is more of the lies you live on. While i myself agreed to pay 800 euros for a certified and sent box that was stolen on transit, as got the papers for it, legally and by Paypal, was not my business, but as i am not a crook, i offered to reimbourse. You lie again, as you simply can´t stand a foreigner gets invited to be with the elite of the tailoring you even don´t know and reaches the top.

This conversation is trying to a narcissistic who is always over the rest agrees he is lying or incorrect, and that won´t ever happen on a person who suffers that, so i will stop, but by any reason will tolerate lies and offenses to me.


With this i hope you stop offending me, offending the truth, offending arthisans, offending an industry this " outsider" surname has been 99 years on ( great for an outsider surname to be almost a century on it eh? ) and even denying things all the forum knows you did. It seems is not the one who must need a doctor, sorry to say, i gave you for free and as a favour as i consider the life a social labour, my diagnose both as high tailoring student and as psychology student.



I pray for you, as i do with everybody i see is not acting properly, as well as i will do as a social labour, my duty, to help people do not get lesser products or services using fake advertising, hype, lies etc as everybody knows I do and will continue doing in my life.

I have been warned the mods as I won´t tolerate any other lie and and attemp against my work or honour.



Best wishes and sorry to the forum for such a long letter.

 

[Concordia]

It is nice to see that passion has not entirely left the clothing trade.

 

[marcodalondra]

Francisco, there is a clinic in Naples very famous that you should visit, Villa Angela is the name. All the above prove you are seriously f... Up in the head.

I have nothing to demonstrate to you or explain to you and I pity anyone that get involved with you.

Villa Angela is the name, visit them, they may fix you

 

[SartodiNapoli]

Once you can´t deny all my exposed facts, then comes again the personal attacks, as humildty to reckon your mistakes does not exist, nothing new, narcissistic behaviour as i said. And as a prove, paradoxically recommends a clinic to others, again that is called " projection", to project on others what he has. What i said, poor soul who needs prayers .

May Padre Pio be with you.

I was several years ago when i said you this, it seems i might be a good psychologist, with the help of God, and to help people as this poster;

Subtype​

Description​

Personality Traits​

Unprincipled narcissist Including antisocial features. A charlatanwho is a fraudulent, exploitative, deceptive, and unscrupulous individual Deficient conscience; unscrupulous, amoral, disloyal, fraudulent, deceptive, arrogant, exploitive; a con man and charlatan; dominating, contemptuous, vindictive.

Narcissistic Personality Disorder (NPD) is a personality disorder[1] in which a person is excessively preoccupied with personal adequacy, power, prestige and vanity, mentally unable to see the destructive damage they are causing to themselves and to others in the process. It is estimated that this condition affects one percent of the population.[2][3] First formulated in 1968, NPD was historically called megalomania, and is a form of severe egocentrism.[4]



Symptoms[edit]

People who are diagnosed with a narcissistic personality disorder are characterized by exaggerated feelings of self-importance. They have a sense of entitlement and demonstrate grandiosity in their beliefs and behavior. They have a strong need for admiration, but lack feelings of empathy.[5]
Symptoms of this disorder, as defined by the DSM-IV-TR, include:[1]

• Expects to be recognized as superior and special, without superior accomplishments
• Expects constant attention, admiration and positive reinforcement from others
• Envies others and believes others envy him/her
• Is preoccupied with thoughts and fantasies of great success, enormous attractiveness, power, intelligence
• Lacks the ability to empathize with the feelings or desires of others
• Is arrogant in attitudes and behavior
• Has expectations of special treatment that are unrealistic

Other symptoms in addition to the ones defined by DSM-IV-TR include: Is interpersonally exploitative, i.e., takes advantage of others to achieve his or her own ends, has trouble keeping healthy relationships with others, easily hurt or rejected, appears unemotional, and exaggerating special achievements and talents, setting unrealistic goals for himself/herself.[6]
Narcissistic Personality Disorder is characterized by an over-inflated sense of self-importance, as well as dramatic, emotional behavior that is in the same category as antisocial and borderline personality disorders. [7]
In addition to these symptoms, the person may display arrogance, show superiority, and seek power.[8] The symptoms of narcissistic personality disorder can be similar to the traits of individuals with strong self-esteem and confidence; differentiation occurs when the underlying psychological structures of these traits are considered pathological. Narcissists have such an elevated sense of self-worth that they value themselves as inherently better than others, when in reality they have a fragile self-esteem, cannot handle criticism, and often try to compensate for this inner fragility by belittling or disparaging others in an attempt to validate their own self-worth. Comments and criticisms about others are vicious from sufferers of NPD, in an attempt to boost their own poor self-esteem.[9]






I hope the moderators clean this continue offenses, i will put this user where should be, and also my recommendation to all the ones who receive pms
or " consulting" from him. On the Ignored users list.

 

[marcodalondra]

How many times you got banned again? How many nicks did you create so far? How many top tailors did you order from? What happened with Finanore, Chiaia And Orazio Luciano? Here is the answer.

 

[SartodiNapoli]

How many times you got banned again? How many nicks did you create so far? How many top tailors did you order from? What happened with Finanore, Chiaia And Orazio Luciano? Here is the answer.

The last time i will answer to this personal attacks, so sorry to the forum for it, if you consider a fused jacket from " top tailors" who at the time you know i didn´t know any, as this Orazio,

Note the crooked stripes of the sleeve do not cut straight to save 10 cms fabric on a 2000 euros retail, the out of pitch sleeves, horrid everything, The manekin was on our High Tailoring school, disecting this horrid jacket i was scammed by Orazio with but this Marco uses against me.






who adverts as " the real neapolitan tailoring ", and see the fusing, or as this a good fit thing, tailors who do not deliver, or this Finamore a good fit, after 3 measures by their master tailors. etc, then the problem as i said, is not mine. Those are the ones i have to expose to avoid honest clients as me being scammed this garments.


My fault for following hypes on forums when i was a as you, a non professional. On that you

are right and what my duty obligates me to help people get scammed by this kind of people, who on this tailor case, was kicked out of Kiton by stealing suits and fabrics to Ciro Paone, and you as " insider" on Naples should be know. This is the prove no one can trust you, as i realiced years ago, and took yourself the unserious way you are expossing yourself right now. I hope the mods do delete all the lies and offenses to my humble person and you get better by God´s sake. i will pray for you.

Best Wishes