The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[rs232]

Chris, you're phenomenally patient and diligent in keeping this thread current. Really, sincerely appreciated; I'm learning lots from the critiques.

Images are clickable for large versions.



My impressions:

• Left sleeve rotated (but I haven't really done anything to the sleeves, since the body still has a fair few issues.
• Right shoulder lower, need to correct for this
• Fronts caving together, short front balance
• Wrinkles in back; back too long at waist area
• Whole jacket a bit long and dowdy and making my legs look short; take in 1cm or so at shoulder seams once front/back balance and length is fixed
• A little chestier than I think I'd like, but too late to change, and I'm not 100% sure that this is bad because it is quite comfortable and easy to move in.
• Maybe let out front side and take in back side, both at the waist level.

This set highlights the collar problems I'm still having. No matter if I move the collar up or down, it still seems to find that natural position at the base of the shirt collar, which says to me that it's a fitting problem from the shoulder/neck area of the body pieces, rather than the collar itself. I wonder, am I cutting the neck "hole" too wide on the back pieces? Or screwing up the attachment point at the gorge? Or both?



This picture shows what happens if I shrug - the back (and front, though I haven't photographed it) hang much more nicely. This demonstrates why I think that all the body is just too long and I need to take in the shoulder seams.

 

[bellyhungry]

Question to the tailors:

I have an 8" drop and in a few of my blazer and suit jackets, while the shoulders fit well, the 'flaps' or 'skirt' (is that the right term? See below) tend to be too wide and flare out.

Is it possible to get them narrowed/tapered to fit/hug the hip better? If so, is that a major work?

Thanks in advance...

 

[a tailor]



Question to the tailors:
I have an 8" drop and in a few of my blazer and suit jackets, while the shoulders fit well, the 'flaps' or 'skirt' (is that the right term? See below) tend to be too wide and flare out.
Is it possible to get them narrowed/tapered to fit/hug the hip better? If so, is that a major work?
Thanks in advance...

better to see this on you.

some stores carry garments with an 8 inch drop.

 

[Despos]



Chris, you're phenomenally patient and diligent in keeping this thread current. Really, sincerely appreciated; I'm learning lots from the critiques.

Images are clickable for large versions.

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

My impressions:

• Left sleeve rotated (but I haven't really done anything to the sleeves, since the body still has a fair few issues.
• Right shoulder lower, need to correct for this
• Fronts caving together, short front balance
• Wrinkles in back; back too long at waist area
• Whole jacket a bit long and dowdy and making my legs look short; take in 1cm or so at shoulder seams once front/back balance and length is fixed
• A little chestier than I think I'd like, but too late to change, and I'm not 100% sure that this is bad because it is quite comfortable and easy to move in.
• Maybe let out front side and take in back side, both at the waist level.

This set highlights the collar problems I'm still having. No matter if I move the collar up or down, it still seems to find that natural position at the base of the shirt collar, which says to me that it's a fitting problem from the shoulder/neck area of the body pieces, rather than the collar itself. I wonder, am I cutting the neck "hole" too wide on the back pieces? Or screwing up the attachment point at the gorge? Or both?

This picture shows what happens if I shrug - the back (and front, though I haven't photographed it) hang much more nicely. This demonstrates why I think that all the body is just too long and I need to take in the shoulder seams.

Just the major issues. Chest is too large but the fronts are also short. Would move the neck point on the front part towards the shoulder 3/8" and raise this point 1/4" . Extend the shoulder width 3/8" to maintain the same width. This will move the breakline and reduce some of the extra cloth in the chest area and help to make the front edge hang straight.It will also bring the collar closer on your neck. One change and three results. That's why you don't really want to mess around with the front neck point as it effects so much of the jacket but we are experimenting here.
Let out the underarm panel at the top of the armhole 3/8" to nothing at the waist.

Shorten the back from the top 1/2". Do another basted fitting to see how much effect these adjustments create.

How much fullness do you add to the back shoulder ? How much fullness do you baste into the under collar? Could better judge your collar issues better from seeing the pattern and not the jacket.

Some of you lingo is hard to interpret.

 

[whitefisk]

gents

looking for some more advice on a recent MTM attempt. I just noticed upon posting these my top button is undone, my apologies about that. Im going to ask for a remake with the following changes, please let me know if i am on-track or not?

Jacket:
shorten sleeves 3/8", trouser hem correction
shorten quarters by 0.5-1" (i think this jacket makes my legs look squat, would shortening the jacket be the best way to correct this?)
reduce shoulder measurement 0.5"
reduce chest 1 - 1.5" (hopefully will eliminate bunching of material at the back around the arms/shoulderblades?)
Pitch the sleeves downwards a few degrees
Raise armholes by 0.5"
Is some of the bunching near the waist due to low shoulder/high hip issues? I think i have a low right but it doesnt look like a consistent occurance from the pictures?

Pants:
increase trouser rise 2" (alleviate bunching between the legs near the seat)
widen trouser leg by 0.5" at thigh, 1" at knee/calf (trousers are hanging on my calves it looks like?)
decrease waist 1"

Additionally, this is the first 3 peice ive owned. Can i get some guidance on good sartorial practice for the vest?

Sorry if too many alterations have been listed, any help provided is of course greatly appreciated

 

[Srben]

Picked this BB blazer up while thrifting. Other than having the sleeves let out a bit, I'm happy with the fit. Thoughts?

 

[a tailor]



gents


looking for some more advice on a recent MTM attempt. I just noticed upon posting these my top button is undone, my apologies about that. Im going to ask for a remake with the following changes, please let me know if i am on-track or not?


Jacket:

shorten sleeves 3/8", trouser hem correction

shorten quarters by 0.5-1" (i think this jacket makes my legs look squat, would shortening the jacket be the best way to correct this?)

reduce shoulder measurement 0.5"

reduce chest 1 - 1.5" (hopefully will eliminate bunching of material at the back around the arms/shoulder blades?)

Pitch the sleeves downwards a few degrees

Raise armholes by 0.5"

Is some of the bunching near the waist due to low shoulder/high hip issues? I think i have a low right but it doesnt look like a consistent occurance from the pictures?


Pants:

increase trouser rise 2" (alleviate bunching between the legs near the seat)

widen trouser leg by 0.5" at thigh, 1" at knee/calf (trousers are hanging on my calves it looks like?)

decrease waist 1"


Additionally, this is the first 3 peice ive owned. Can i get some guidance on good sartorial practice for the vest?


Sorry if too many alterations have been listed, any help provided is of course greatly appreciated

first you should send them all of these pictures along with the instructions.
and draw arrows pointing to the problems.
to shorten the sleeves ,ok.
to shorten the jacket, only up to the point that your butt is still covered.
but then actually it looks short enough now.
take in the shoulders only if they feel too wide.
careful to not make the chest too tight. does ti feel too bulky in front?
point out the excess at the blades. ask them to clean it up.
pitching the sleeves back a little ok.
the armhole can come up only if this is a full recut. [new jacket]
i think the seat/ hip area could be a bit looser.
the trousers are too tight, the pockets are starting to gap.
increase the seat measure by 1".
also increase the back fork by 1".
the legs are far too tight. increase the knee and bottom total
circumference by at least 3". dont be afraid to make the legs wider
yet because , if it becomes too wide it can be tapered easily.
but i am afraid you will always have that calf problem.
2" is an awful lot to adjust the rise. the waist is going to come up
or the crotch deeper or both, depending on where you set the belt.

 

[a tailor]



Picked this BB blazer up while thrifting. Other than having the sleeves let out a bit, I'm happy with the fit. Thoughts?

the shoulders are too wide as well as the chest.
i dont know how much you feel is worth spending
but it will not be cheap.
the jacket is too snug across the butt.
too loose across the stomach. unless your stomach
fills it out

 

[TheFoo]

^^^ Really? I like the shoulder width where it is. It looks like the collar is too loose, actually.

 

[Srben]

If it helps in the assessment, my chest is a 46R, my trousers are between 34-36x32. I have an athletic build, my pecs usually make the lapels bow a bit, and I have one hell of a time with divots. That, and I have a squatter's butt.

 

[StormRider]

Really appreciate all the feedback on my previous postings in this thread. Will greatly appreciate your expert feedback on my first Indochino suit - Essential Navy Pinstripe suit.

I'm standing on a plastic bag so my shoe polish doens't stain the carpet, making my wife happy.

First, the pants.

Thought it's slightly long, and the rise is maybe 1/2 inch short, thigh could be 1" too wide.




Secondly, the suit (sorry about the pants sticking to the right shoe, didn't notice it when I took the photo)





My thoughts:

- shoulder is 1/2 inch wide on both sides (the roped shoulder added to this)
- sleeve is 1/2 inch too long
- chest is 2 inch too large
- waist is 1 inch too large
- seat is 2 inches too large

I also don't know why there are two lines of wrinkles on each upper arm. Should I ask for a remake? Someone on my other thread suggested it's because the sleeves were not attached correctly.

Do think this suit can be fixed easily by a tailor?

Thanks.

 

[themaninasuit]

Hi Just looking for some feedback on my new sportscoat. It is a made to measure 11oz wool cashmere from huddersfield cloth. I am think of ordering more cloth to make a vest and trousers as I think its too conservative for a s/c. Any thoughts?

 

[aspasp]

any recommendations on a tailor by union square nyc?

 

[chogall]

Hi Just looking for some feedback on my new sportscoat. It is a made to measure 11oz wool cashmere from huddersfield cloth. I am think of ordering more cloth to make a vest and trousers as I think its too conservative for a s/c. Any thoughts?

Looking good, just need to adjust sleeve lengths. Good call on making it a suit because it definitely doesn't look like a sports coat.

 

[Dr.Teatime]

I'm hoping that the tailors on the forum can give me some help with a sport coat

I have just had the first fitting, where a canvas was covered with some left over material for fit purposes.

The images are given below.

I acknowledge that the shoulders are a little overpadded, and will be reduced. I have asked for a soft, more natural shoulder, hopefully spalla camina. This should reduce the divots.
The breast plate will be reduced to make the front a bit more slim
The back will be shortened to give a better balance.

My questions are as follows:
Where should the button stance be?
Any recommendations on the size of the lapels? I want to have peak lapels
i feel that the right side of the coat has a 'wrinkle' for lack of a better word: can this be fixed?
General fit comments are particularly appreciated.
There will be a total of 3 fittings for this coat, so I want to ask for the appropriate changes before the next fitting.

Thanks in advance