The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. burningbright

    burningbright Senior member

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    Quick question with no pics, but hopefully I can describe it. If not, I can grab some photos later.

    Anyway, what causes the skirt on the sides of a jacket to buckle or fold outward instead of adhering to the sides of the hips? Some of my jackets do this and I need a vent strap, others don't and I can't figure out why that is?

    Would it be the height of the vent or a different kind of canvas used on one vs. the other?

    Thanks!
     


  2. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Crooked shoulders make for a flared skirt but it could be a number of causes. Need a visual to assess what might cause this
     


  3. burningbright

    burningbright Senior member

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    Crooked, meaning like a concave shoulder (shoulders that are pitched forward - if that makes sense)?
     
    Last edited: Aug 30, 2012


  4. Srben

    Srben Well-Known Member

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    ?
     
    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012


  5. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Crooked is different than concave. It's a technical term regarding the shoulder neck point.
     


  6. poseidon

    poseidon Member

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    Hi, does anyone have any suggestions? Thanks so much! I am planning to go back to Chan's for a second suit...

    V
     


  7. Maccimus

    Maccimus Senior member

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    Jacket is too tight I think.
     


  8. othertravel

    othertravel Senior member

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    It's pretty good, but I can't tell if the button is pulling in the mid section, or if the jacket is wrinkled.
     


  9. Despos

    Despos Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Looks OK. Wear the suit when you meet with them and they may see things to adjust.

    Some random thoughts.

    You have a combination low right shoulder and prominent left shoulder blade. The back of the sleeves could be cleaner. Lapels look very high from this picture angle.

    Pick up the back of the trouser at the top to clean up the back of the trouser. I might go 1" larger on the knee and the trouser bottom to get a better line on the trouser leg.
     


  10. Srben

    Srben Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Aug 31, 2012


  11. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Senior member

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    To the tailors out there, or anyone who has done this, what should it cost to have the sleeves of a sportcoat slimmed? What if just mildly tapered below the elbow? Thanks
     


  12. crunch123

    crunch123 New Member

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    [​IMG]

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    Measurement: Height: 5' 6.5'' (169 cm); Weight: 141 lbs (64 kg)

    Hi SF Masters and Members - just picked up my jacket today. I am planning to make a suit with the measurements as per the above pictures with the following adjustments (note: aim to have more fashion-forward suit that is still acceptable for business setting, except the very formal event):

    A) Jacket :
    1) jacket length should be longer (hence, would also have slightly lower button stance)
    2) to adjust the jacket's right shoulder (from my direction/pov) as the current one does not seem to 'sit' on my shoulder well
    3) to reduce the length of the lapel from 2.75 to 2.5 inches and to make it just the normal notch
    4) to have slightly more flare up jacket bottom ("open-quarter")
    (Side Note: the jacket sleeve length seems to be ok; but my shirt sleeve length is too long)

    B) Trousers
    1) the trousers length should be shorter (i.e. currently, there are too many undesirable breaks)
    2) lower the trousers rise (as I prefer to wear my trousers on the hip, instead of waist)

    Another thing on the jacket, does the overall proportion of shoulder, chest, waist look good?

    Any comment to the above adjustment and/or any other recommendation that my newbie eyes overlooked is tremendously appreciated.

    Thank you very much and have a nice weekend.
     


  13. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    if the sleeve has working buttonholes its not a practical thing to do.
     


  14. Svenn

    Svenn Senior member

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    ^Can anyone explain this 'low crotch' phenomena? I have the same problem as the above fellow in my bespoke suits, no matter what I try to do (open the fronts, raise the trouser crotch, etc), I still get this weird thing similar to the above where my crotch appears lower than my torso. Maybe I just need an extra long jacket in the front to cover it up?
     
    Last edited: Sep 1, 2012


  15. CousinDonuts

    CousinDonuts Senior member

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    Non-working.

    Anyone?
     


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