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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by emptym, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    the coat should be fitted over a suit coat.
    sleeves length any wear between the base of the thumb
    and the top knuckle of the thumb.
    if you are into a closer fit, the sides could be taken
    in some. this is an outer coat its looser than a suit coat.
     
  2. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    yes the sleeves need to be lengthened.
    the jacket seems to not be setting properly on your shoulders.
    or are you leaning to the left?
    cant see the entire back of the trousers.
     
  3. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    on the grey.
    the sleeves can be lengthened a little in spite of the working buttons.
    the only place to let out the blades is on the center seam.
    i would let it out from top to bottom. how much is up to you.
    after that you may need to shorten the back at the top.
    forget changing the pockets.
    the sleeves can only slimmed slightly.
    but they can be hung differently so that it would take some of
    the fullness.

    on the navy
    the sleeve can be fixed. the roping will not be as extreme as it is now..
    it looks like there is something underneath there.
    i would change the angle of the opening of the pocket to
    something more common.
    the rest looks good. just remember do one suit at a time not two.
     
  4. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    this usually happens to a flat front . one with no front dart. also you have a right low shoulder and a high right hip.
     
    1 person likes this.
  5. a tailor

    a tailor Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    it looks pretty good.now.
    on your next suit tell them how low your right shoulder is and how high your right hip is.
    the instructions for measuring is in the tutorials they are "do i have a low shoulder"& "got a high hip".
    tell them what your tailor had to do, and send them those last two pictures so they .believe you had
    those problems.

    good luck to you
     
    Last edited: Nov 28, 2012
  6. Thahmas

    Thahmas Member

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    Alex thank you very much! I'm taking the navy back tomorrow so your advice was invaluable. I'll make the adjustments you suggest on the grey too.

    Many thanks,
    Tom
     
  7. bboysdontcryy

    bboysdontcryy Senior member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2012
  8. Sanguis Mortuum

    Sanguis Mortuum Senior member

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    A slim suit does not need to be an ill-fitting suit. Whatever look he is going for I'm pretty sure 'badly fitting' was not it. Balence issues in particular, unlike extreme tightness which some people seem to desire, are not something that can be described as subjective. Nobody intentionally asks for a coat with balance issues because it's 'their style'. A coat with incorrect balance is simply wrong.

    You are right that online MTM will never be perfect, but there is no harm in pointing out the flaws so that he can try to get it closer next time. What would be the benefit in ignoring blatent fit issues on the premise that "its online MTM so you might as well just put up with terrible fit"? Only by acknowledging the flaws can he start to improve them for future orders.
     
  9. SeaJen

    SeaJen Senior member

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    nothing. my mistake.
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2012
  10. theclipper

    theclipper Senior member

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    I was wondering if anyone could give any feedback as to whether this blazer is anywhere near a decent fit on me. I apologize for the poor pictures. I was trying this on in store, so it was the best I could do. I have never actually bought a blazer/suit coat before so I'm very unsure as to how one should fit. I do know the sleeves are definitely too long on this. I'm 5'10'' 135lb so I tend to have a hard time finding a good fit. Ideally I'd like to find a decent slim fitting navy blazer. Any input would be greatly appreciated.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    Thanks
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2012
  11. clarksdb

    clarksdb Senior member

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    Looking for some feedback. Couple weeks ago I posted a blazer I got made from a third world country when my dad went there. All I was able to do was provide measurements. After advise here that I should get the waist suppressed and the sleeves shortened I took it to the tailor and got it back today. I think it looks MUCH better now. I am really happy. What do you think? Ideally, the jacket length seems fine from front but an extra inch in the back would have been nice so it would have completely covered my behind. Anyways for $100 I can't complain much...

    I am happy with the lapel width as well. Don't like the extremely narrow lapels of today and I don't think it is too wide either where it looks outdated. Overall it looks flattering for my size I think.

    BEFORE:

    [​IMG]

    AFTER:


    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Nov 29, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  12. MASTERTAILOR

    MASTERTAILOR Member

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    The collar of the shirt is too high. Did you feel like you were holding your shoulders back for the photos? I ask because the coat looks tight from the front and loose from the back. The pants seem a bit short from the rear? The sleeves need to be adjusted a bit. Its very important to stand as naturally and symetrically as possible for fittings and fitting photos...This honestly looks like a stance issue... Do you have another photo?
     
  13. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hi Tailors:

    I had a sports coat m2m at Suit Supply. I did this in Amsterdam and am now back in the states. It came to about $350, which I thought was not a bad deal, and safe for a first effort. I'll never be able to afford bespoke, alas.

    Here are some pics.
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    I'm happy enough to keep wearing it. It certainly fits better than most of my other jackets. I asked for a higher arm hole.

    Things that I would change if I were to have them do another

    1. I would lower the button stance a bit, perhaps midway between where the two buttons are, or slightly higher. 1.5 inches?
    2. I would also have the jacket lengthened about an inch.
    3. Maybe a little more room at the waist, just a touch, but depends on how much I've eaten!
    4. Sleeve pitch?

    Small Questions

    1. Anything simple fixes to look out for were I to go back and have another one done?
    2. Anything I could change in this one? Are the sleeves too short?
    3. Shoulder slope?
    4. Aside: why the bunching at the trouser near the seat (Howard Yount trousers)?

    BIG QUESTION
    I had a problem detailed here by A Tailor

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/313577/uncomfortable-shoulder-forward-shoulders#post_5724438

    Basically, the jacket presses against my shoulder as if the armhole is pulling on the front of my shoulder.

    This is the jacket the prompted my question to him. It feels better now, but A Tailor suggested that mostly I was getting used to it.

    But how can I have them compensate in future jackets were I to go back?

    A. Start with a slightly bigger starting jacket (40 instead of 38) and work down, so long as shoulders fit?
    B. Cut a slightly larger arm hole, front to back?
    C. Essentially make the adjustment in A Tailor's post above, but when they make alterations?
    D. No hope, find someone else or just live with it, because I can't go bespoke.

    Thanks
     
  14. sugarbutch

    sugarbutch Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    I'm not one of the tailors, so I couldn't tell you how to fix these issues, but here's what I see:


    • Lapels don't make a clean line from collar to button
    • Button is too high
    • Skirt is too short
    • Sleeves are too short
    • Sleeves are buckling at the shoulder

    On the positive, the back looks pretty clean
     
  15. TweedyProf

    TweedyProf Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Thanks for the feedback. I agree about length...I think with this maker, I will have to push against the more "modern" shorter lengths that seem to be the default. I think this is true on button stance (they actually lowered it!).

    On button stance, I was thinking about midway between the two or slight higher. Seem right?

    Is the buckling tied to sleeve pitch? It's not a shoulder dimple, at least when I normally move.

    And...thanks for dishing out a positive with the helpful critique.
     
  16. NeedStyleHelp

    NeedStyleHelp Senior member

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    Toronto
    I've got a question.

    I would like to have the look of a no-break pant where the pant doesn't rise when I'm walking. Is that possible?
    What measurements would the trouser leg opening size need to be to accomplish this?
     
  17. zlh23

    zlh23 New Member

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    Nov 12, 2012
    I recently purchased a suit from suitsupply. I purchased it in store, and they suggested a waist suppression, and I went along with it. However, I was unable to pick it up/try it on in person after the alterations and just received it in the mail. I think it's a hair too tight, especially on my hips, which is causing some pulling. I do want a closely fitting torso, but I am unsure on this finished product. Please ignore the sleeve length, the shirt sleeves are a bit too shirt, and I will be replacing this shirt in the near future. Could I get some feedback?

    Thanks,

    Zack

    [​IMG]



    More pictures:
    http://imgur.com/a/nA85M#Lddrl
     
  18. suits123

    suits123 Active Member

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    Hi, I am currently in the process of losing weight. I have 5 bespoke suits and I am worried I will lose to much weight in the shoulders/arms. If I do, is it possible for my tailor to recut the shoulders? I am not worried to much about the stomach I know they will be able to take it in/taper it on the sides. I'm hoping to not have to build a lot of shoulder muscles as I already have broad shoulders (I was a linebacker in high school). Thanks!
     
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2012
  19. RDiaz

    RDiaz Senior member

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    Madrid
    Things can always be re-cut to a smaller size by a skilled tailor. In theory, he could take a suit apart and re-make it as small as overall balance and pocket placement will allow, but since it will probably cost more than a new suit, it's impractical [​IMG]

    There are some things that can't be done like raising armholes, but shoulders are not a problem if yours is a good tailor, just $$$.
     
  20. suits123

    suits123 Active Member

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    Ok. That's good. He is a renoud tailor. Even recutting the shoulders should be a lot cheaper than getting all new suits as their biggest cost fluctuation is in the fabric, which I already have obviously.

    Edit: I heard back from them, the will do all the alteration no problem. Thanks for the help!
     
    Last edited: Dec 1, 2012

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