WW Chan - Bespoke vs. MTM

[GBR]

Where have you learned that Chan offers MTM? It does not nor has it ever so done.

 

[GBR]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

What am I missing here? If Chan charges ~$1,800 for a suit, I am surprised at the number of members who patronize the firm.

I would also argue that Chan is more akin to MTM than bespoke - while a paper pattern is cut, the abbreviated fittings (which seem to be generally discouraged) are not in the sprit of bespoke tailoring.

To be clear, bespoke without several fittings means nothing - what makes bespoke superior is the fittings by a trained professional and not the mere fact that a paper pattern is drafted for each customer.

For the price, one could go to Ercole in NYC, or spend a few hundred dollars more and use Mina Adamo's bespoke service out of Naples.

As I said, what am I missing here?

A number of firms omit the full fittings when the client cannot call upon them with ease. It does not change the principle that the suit is cut from a personal pattern which incorporates personal detail derived from fittings. Yes I have seen patterns in HK.

 

[poorsod]

Originally Posted by J. Cogburn

I also learned that flannel trousers would cost me $466 a pop. A Chesterfield topcoat would cost me $3,398. Ouch!

Not sure about current pricing but I got an overcoat with JJ Minnis for about $1500 a year ago. I was quoted $3-4000 for cashmere.

 

[J. Cogburn]

Happy days for you then! I certainly did not indicate that the Chesterfield topcoat I had in mind needed to be made of cashmere!

Regarding suits, Chan's website presently states:

The price for a suit is depends on the fabrics you select. The average price for a 2pc. Suit for men runs around US$1,200. A woman's suit costs about US$800. If your choose our most expensive fabrics, such as those made by Ermenegildo Zegna or Loro Piana, prices will start at US$1,700. No matter what fabric you select, you will enjoy our top quality tailoring and service.

Now, I am somewhat surprised to learn that Zegna and Loro Piana are thought of as among Chan's most expensive fabrics. While I am not experienced in these matters, I had thought that those companies offer fabrics at the lower end of the prices charged by the English mills that get a lot of attention here - Lesser, Harrisons, Fox, Minis, etc.

 

[Will]

Originally Posted by J. Cogburn

Happy days for you then! I certainly did not indicate that the Chesterfield topcoat I had in mind needed to be made of cashmere!

Regarding suits, Chan's website presently states:



Now, I am somewhat surprised to learn that Zegna and Loro Piana are thought of as among Chan's most expensive fabrics. While I am not experienced in these matters, I had thought that those companies offer fabrics at the lower end of the prices charged by the English mills that get a lot of attention here - Lesser, Harrisons, Fox, Minis, etc.

That's probably more a matter of popularity than reality. They charge $2,300 for an Irish linen suit due to cloth costs, and a Scabal cashmere jacket would be even more.

 

[poorsod]

Originally Posted by J. Cogburn

Now, I am somewhat surprised to learn that Zegna and Loro Piana are thought of as among Chan's most expensive fabrics. While I am not experienced in these matters, I had thought that those companies offer fabrics at the lower end of the prices charged by the English mills that get a lot of attention here - Lesser, Harrisons, Fox, Minis, etc.

I think there is a general forum bias towards heavier fabrics with great body which naturally lends itself towards the English cloth merchants. The Italians tend towards thin and light fabrics but are more difficult to tailor. LP has a reputation for cashmere but it out of my price range.

 

[J. Cogburn]

Chan still looks like a good deal from where I am sitting. They charge only half of what Will Field charges here in Washington - the best bespoke tailor in town. They charge somewhat less that the traveling superstar independents from the UK such as Mr. Dubois. And they charge substantially less than the main houses in Savile Row.

If you are going bespoke and you want something other than a modified-American cut, they still seem to be the best value around.

 

[TheTukker]

Originally Posted by IronRock

Perhaps the tour prices are more than the HK prices? I have no idea.

I am certainly not the most knowledgeable SF member on this point, but I think the pricing is the same.

Originally Posted by Twotone

Do Chan's price increases and lack of fittings make Mr. Ned a better deal?

I could be wrong, but I think that Chan's and Ned's pricing is actually fairly similar. If you're based in NY, Ned certainly has the advantage of the additional fittings though.

 

[taxgenius]

Originally Posted by Lonneker

I could be wrong, but I think that Chan's and Ned's pricing is actually fairly similar. If you're based in NY, Ned certainly has the advantage of the additional fittings though.

I just priced a 2 piece suit using a particular H&S fabric. Chan was cheaper by $31.

 

[dragon8]

Originally Posted by J. Cogburn

Happy days for you then! I certainly did not indicate that the Chesterfield topcoat I had in mind needed to be made of cashmere!

Regarding suits, Chan's website presently states:



Now, I am somewhat surprised to learn that Zegna and Loro Piana are thought of as among Chan's most expensive fabrics. While I am not experienced in these matters, I had thought that those companies offer fabrics at the lower end of the prices charged by the English mills that get a lot of attention here - Lesser, Harrisons, Fox, Minis, etc.

If I'm not mistaken, Chan uses higher end Zegna cloth like Trofeo, 15 Mil Mil 15, which makes suits closer to the $2k range. For a few hundred dollars more you can get a MTM zegna.

 

[Macallan9]

What's the point of going bespoke when you only get 1 fitting? It makes no sense to me. You might as well attempt MTM 3-5 times at that price.

 

[taxgenius]

Originally Posted by Macallan9

What's the point of going bespoke when you only get 1 fitting? It makes no sense to me. You might as well attempt MTM 3-5 times at that price.

Which MTM gives 3-5 fittings?

 

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by Macallan9

What's the point of going bespoke when you only get 1 fitting?
What is this referring to? You can get 2 or 3 fittings with Chan if you're willing to wait a year or more for a suit.

 

[Bohdathone]

Originally Posted by Bounder

Well, Graham Browne in London is about 1500 USD now, for example. I haven't gotten anything from them but I've seen some of their work and have also heard very good reports. If I can squeeze out the time, I may try them out for an odd jacket next time I'm in London, especially if someone can confirm that they are now cheaper than Chan.


Has anyone here tried Graham Browne out? I might try them for a suit when I'm in London next month if they're any good

 

[edmorel]

Originally Posted by gdl203

What is this referring to? You can get as 2 or 3 fittings with Chan if you're willing to wait a year or more for a suit.

I think he is referring to people's comments (posted here previously) that Chan's preference seems to be one fitting and then delivery. Or at least, that seems to be the route the majority of people (who aren't in HK) take with him. I agree in the sense that it defeats the purpose and I think some people may be putting getting a "bespoke" suit ahead of getting a suit that fits.