WW Chan - Bespoke vs. MTM

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Maybe I haven't been around the WAYWN thread that frequently, but the only Chan suits I've liked have been those of the HK-based customers (yfyf for example). To be perfectly honest, I haven't been terribly impressed with the rest - especially now that I see they cost $1,800 a pop.

I personally wouldn't buy them (I prefer full-on fashion suits) and if I went bespoke I'd look at other options but those I've seen (in pictures) didn't look worse than bespoke suits posted and maybe even better on average. Keep in mind that I've never seen a Chan suit in flesh (as far as I am aware) and that they might have been worn by HK posters (I don't keep track).

 

[Bounder]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

What am I missing here? If Chan charges ~$1,800 for a suit, I am surprised at the number of members who patronize the firm. I would also argue that Chan is more akin to MTM than bespoke - while a paper pattern is cut, the abbreviated fittings (which seem to be generally discouraged) are not in the sprit of bespoke tailoring. To be clear, bespoke without several fittings means nothing - what makes bespoke superior is the fittings by a trained professional and not the mere fact that a paper pattern is drafted for each customer. For the price, one could go to Ercole in NYC, or spend a few hundred dollars more and use Mina Adamo's bespoke service out of Naples. As I said, what am I missing here?
I'm not quite sure what Fuuma is talking about. There is much in what you say. If you go to HK and make them do 2-3 fittings, the results are quite good. If you let them just make a suit from your pattern and send it to you -- which is their preferred method of operation -- you may well be better off with MTM. At 1200 USD for a suit, Chan is a real bargain, assuming you're in HK and get the fittings done. At 1800+ for a suit, there are other options as good or better. Certainly more convenient, anyway. Does anyone know if they've really raised their prices? I was in HK last fall and their prices were about 1200 USD for a suit. It's hard to believe they suddenly raised them by 50%. Perhaps their in-shop proces are the same and they charge more for suits ordered on tour. I vaguely recall that being the case.

 

[taxgenius]

Originally Posted by Bounder

At 1800+ for a suit, there are other options as good or better.

Where?

 

[emc894]

I would be curious to know if they have raised their prices too. Also, do they mail fabric swatche so you can order once your pattern is dialed in?

 

[dragon8]

Originally Posted by emc894

I would be curious to know if they have raised their prices too. Also, do they mail fabric swatche so you can order once your pattern is dialed in?

On their last tour in March the VBC cost $1200. The fabrics are no longer sent just scanned

 

[Twotone]

Do Chan's price increases and lack of fittings make Mr. Ned a better deal?

Twotone

 

[Bounder]

Originally Posted by taxgenius69

Where?
Well, Graham Browne in London is about 1500 USD now, for example. I haven't gotten anything from them but I've seen some of their work and have also heard very good reports. If I can squeeze out the time, I may try them out for an odd jacket next time I'm in London, especially if someone can confirm that they are now cheaper than Chan.

 

[lee_44106]

Maybe the higher price will now move Chan into the "exalted" categories of bespoke/custom suit makers.


Or is the Asian sounding name just too much to overcome?

 

[comrade]

Originally Posted by Fuuma

I personally wouldn't buy them (I prefer full-on fashion suits) and if I went bespoke I'd look at other options but those I've seen (in pictures) didn't look worse than bespoke suits posted and maybe even better on average. Keep in mind that I've never seen a Chan suit in flesh (as far as I am aware) and that they might have been worn by HK posters (I don't keep track).

I have seen several jackets "in the flesh"on a fellow SF member, now that I think of it,
more than one member. I cannot comment on the workmanship, as I didn't examine the garments.
The fit was superb, however.

 

[J. Cogburn]

do you know what fabric that was?

I did not specify any particular fabric. I told Chan I was interested in a standard 10 oz wool in plain worsted from an English mill and wasn't interested in anything particularly "super." The $1,759 estimate is what came back for a two-piece, double-breasted suit.

I also learned that flannel trousers would cost me $466 a pop. A Chesterfield topcoat would cost me $3,398. Ouch!

 

[EnglishLapel]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

Maybe the higher price will now move Chan into the "exalted" categories of bespoke/custom suit makers.


Or is the Asian sounding name just too much to overcome?

You often seem to push the "people on the forum don't like Asian craftsmanship" and to me this really does not seem true. People tend to love yfyf's fits and other Asian contingent iGent's fits. You seem to have a chip on your shoulder about people not liking Asian work, but that isn't really apparent on the forVm...

 

[IronRock]

Ok I live in HK so get the added benefit of having as many fittings as I like. I have had two things made by Chans. One winter sports coat in minnis light grey flannel and more recently a morning coat in Harrison’s.

I was extremely pleased with both. The sports coat was abt HKD6500 which equates to USD 830.00 at TODAY'S conversion and the Morning coat was nearer the price quoted above for a suit (again at today's conversion rate) which I think is fair for a morning coat.

Let's say, for the sake of argument, I then spent '$466.00' (as above) on a pair of flannel trousers to make my sports jacket a 'suit.' That would make the whole thing $1,296 - not bad. Perhaps the tour prices are more than the HK prices? I have no idea.

With the added benefit of multiple fittings and the personal touch of actually getting to know and conversing with the tailor I do think you get your money's worth IF you live in HK. I am still willing to try other HK tailors if anyone is willing to advise of someone as good.

Oh, and I have seen my paper pattern.

 

[dmac]

Originally Posted by Fuuma

I personally wouldn't buy them (I prefer full-on fashion suits)

What is a full-on fashion suit?

 

[yfyf]

Originally Posted by EnglishLapel

You often seem to push the "people on the forum don't like Asian craftsmanship" and to me this really does not seem true. People tend to love yfyf's fits and other Asian contingent iGent's fits. You seem to have a chip on your shoulder about people not liking Asian work, but that isn't really apparent on the forVm...
I rarely get into these debates because they get so heated but I will throw a few comments in. The sad fact of the matter is that Asian products (especially Chinese) are frequently perceived differently. People seem to like to treat it as "cut price *insert expensive brand or tailor*" when, for Chan's work at least, they are good quality garments at any price. What's worse is that there many people who will feel justified in nitpicking because they think that the "cut price tailor" is cutting corners and trying to screw them. The idea of bespoke requiring many fittings is only a half truth. I recently commissioned something from a very famous, high-end Italian bespoke tailor and I was shocked by how few measurements they took. I think they took a total of six or seven for a full suit. All the kinks are intended to be worked out during the various fitting stages. While this makes sense because of inconsistencies in the behaviour of fabric and the way the tailor himself constructs the garment from the pattern, an alternative to this is just to take more measurements, more precisely and try to be as consistent as possible during construction. That is the route that Chan took because they have to take so many orders on tour and they want to do a good job of it with minimal further tweaking. I have watched Patrick take measurements during tours and he does very, very extensive measurements as well as using other tools and photographs to provide more accurate and detailed data for cutting the pattern and finally constructing the suit so that it fits. As a gift, I commissioned a jacket for a friend who was getting married in Florida and it turned out very well with no fittings. I have seen the same for three other garments that were created on tour for my own friends.

 

[Fuuma]

Originally Posted by dmac

What is a full-on fashion suit?

Suits from designer brands (Lanvin, Thom Browne, Dior Homme, etc).