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"Fit" is all relative. I have tons of jeans archived, and what would have been considered "lowrise" in 2003 would be considered "regular rise" in 2009, and what would be called "slim fit" in 2003 would probably be considered "regular" or even "relaxed" in 2009. This is not limited to jeans and casualwear. I have a suit that was considered slim back in 2001, that I just can't wear now because I feel that it fits like a sack (though really, Helmut Lang never cut any sack suits,) because of the current trend for very slim suits with very short skirts. I remember in the 80s and 90s looking at old pictures of singers from the 70s and late 60's and thinking that they must be ridiculously uncomfortable.
on wiki it says helmut use to be known for jeans. is this true?
Hip and thigh measurements are relative to the size that you buy but 21"+ hip and 12+" thigh on a 32" waist I would consider relaxed.