The Ultimate Vass (Footwear) Thread (Pictures, reviews, sizing, etc...)

[mr monty]

Vass blast from the past in Navy

 

[steveyoo1983]

Vass blast from the past in Navy

Very Very nice sir!

^^^ Congrats - I've always found navy appealing but have never managed to pull the trigger. One day.

Thank you! Hopefully that one day will come real soon!

 

[FrankCowperwood]



Single is always a safe and sensible choice. No need for HAF sole or double sole.

I would stay with classic loafer designs with welted construction, single sole, and slimmer last. Loafers should be close fitting, light, and delicate shoes.

I'd go double sole - I just have a very strong preference on that point.  It's hardly going to overwhelm the shoe and make it look overly heavy - particularly if it transitions to a single sole under the arch.  And I generally don't like an overly delicate-looking shoe to begin with.

Love Goyser stitching, but not sure I see it here.

Yes. While the Norweger style potentially could take doubel sole (and I have a Norweger derby with a double sole), single is more classic for a loafer. No Goyser - that is for sh*tkickers not loafers.

Have to agree with your comments on double sole - but....only if the shoe is a size 42 or bigger....
and only if Vass skilled craftsman at hand by tapering the double sole into a sublime single at
the waist....it just ooozes class. 

Double sole on size 41 or smaller can look oddly stunted and chunky if you know what I mean....
Also bear in mind the cost of replacing your sole can cost €130 from Vass (that's excluding shipping).

Single sole has it advantages on the K & U last...it simply looks sleek

Thanks for all your thoughts, gentlemen. I think I will defer the Goyser sewing to another Vass order.

These loafers will likely be a size 45, since that fits me well in the New Peter last, and I'd wear them casually. So I think a double sole could work. I'm also considering Dainite. Mr. Kuti says they can add the Dainite to a thin leather sole to create essentially a single sole.

In fact, this is the shoe as shown on the Vass site, and noted as single sole:

This is a Budapest last Norweger (albeit not a loafer) that's said to show a double sole:

Hard to tell whicht I'd prefer from looking at the photos. I don't think I'd taper from double to single though, not on the Budapest last anyway.

And just in case anyone here is interested, here is a photo of the available scotch grain that Mr. Kuti sent:

From the left to the right: Bordeaux, blue, black, brown, red, cognac.

 

[RogerP]

That style in a 45 - you could easily pull of a double sole, IMO.

 

[FrankCowperwood]



That style in a 45 - you could easily pull of a double sole, IMO.

Big feet.

 

[Ilovelobbs]

.

 

[Ilovelobbs]

Fair enough comment on size - I wear a 43, so the double sole looks good in pretty much any application to my eye.

My K lasted Vass is double-soled, tapered to a single at the waist - I wouldn't have it any other way.

And since the double soles will last a good long while, the ultimate cost of resoling is quite significantly deferred.

Another factor is weight and height.

The average Italian build can get away with a slim single shoe....
Our average American cousin may need to re-consider his option

 

[Ilovelobbs]

Very Very nice sir!


Thank you! Hopefully that one day will come real soon!

life too short - no point taking all that money with you....half will end up with the tax man.
Just do it.

 

[bertie]



Big feet.

Oy - 45 is not big

 

[FrankCowperwood]

Biggish then...

 

[SHS]

An alternative to Vass?

http://www.styleforum.net/t/335162/buday-shoes-hungarian-shoemaker#post_6212230

 

[rikod]

Vass Shell

Simple derbie in saddle cordovan, F last

Loafer in brown cordovan, F last

 

[Louis XIV]

Both of them look lovely!

 

[add911_11]



Guys, I have a question for the Vass cracks. I have ordered and quite promply received a pair of beautiful of Old English Oxfords on F-last in size 41.

They came together with a pair of standard trees that were clearly too small although being marked 41. I stupidly did not follow my gut feeling and used them anyway after wearing the shoes which caused quite some creasing on the foreshoe (vamp, I think it's called).

Anyway I wrote Mr. Kuti and asked about it. He promply sent me a pair of trees in 42 which filled my shoes quite nicely.

But, and here's my question: unlike all other trees I own the wood does not touch the vamp leather from inside. Instead it just stretches the leather by spring force. Is that normal and if so is it effective in preventing creasing?

Thanks for your opinions.

Florian

As long as the tree is forcing the shoe to straighten up, thats good enough. You don't want the tree to be touching the vamp area, it is actually not good for the shoe

 

[RogerP]

Vass Shell

Simple derbie in saddle cordovan, F last




Loafer in brown cordovan, F last

Love this.