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The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mafoofan, Nov 22, 2011.

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  1. Ianiceman

    Ianiceman Well-Known Member

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    At least Clooney didn't wear a long tie and he had himself a shave, although I deduct points for not buttoning his jacket for the final acceptance speech. Last week at the critic's choice he wore notch lapels.
    Among the worst has to be Jonny Depp. Either suit up or don't bother, why come half hearted?
     
  2. JakeLA

    JakeLA Well-Known Member

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    Why does everyone here obsess about what George Clooney is wearing? He wears what the stylist for the photo shoot puts on his back. When he's not in public he wears mom jeans and Crocs.
     
    Last edited: Jan 16, 2012
    1 person likes this.
  3. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    We'd expect someone with that much money, who is photographed that much, to have a better stylist, IMO.
     
  4. Lensmaster

    Lensmaster Well-Known Member

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    That's because people have bought into the idea that different is automatically hip and wear whatever is put out there for them. If men actually cared about how they looked and demanded better it would be available.
     
  5. Mr. Claymore

    Mr. Claymore Well-Known Member

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    I’m surprised that no one wore this to the Golden Globes:

    [​IMG]
     
  6. razl

    razl Well-Known Member

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    Holy shit, hide of tyrannosaurus rex, in peak lapels no less!!!
     
  7. iroh

    iroh Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Jan 17, 2012
  8. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Well-Known Member

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    "[H]einously low lapels"?

    http://www.styleforum.net/t/183590/anthony-joseph-drexel-biddle-jr-from-life-magazine#post_3285230

    I agree with many here that Clooney's lapels could be wider, that waist coverings matter, that trousers should fall straight from the waist, and that a 2B DJ is not good.
     
  9. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    I'm saying heinously low by today's standard. Were he wearing a timelessly elegant garment that he'd been using for 20 years, I'd give him a pass. However the rest of the outfit suggested that it was nothing more than current, OTR crap. And if you'll notice, back when lower lapels were the norm, nobody was even wearing two-button, peak lapel jackets for any purpose, let alone black tie. It was mostly the fact that he went for a "modern" tux that had skinnier peak lapels, two buttons and no waist covering (or braces) and then threw on a lapel stance not seen since 1992.
     
  10. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Well-Known Member

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    Fair enough, and it certainly is low by the SF iGent standard, which favors what Doc H aptly calls "batwing peak lapels." I was asking: why should we think that standard the right one? This is style forum, not iGent fashion forum. Just because it's against iGent fashion doesn't in itself make it unstylish.

    I think the problem with Clooney's peak lapels is the skinniness. It's at dramatic odds with the length of the shoulder line, and the eye goes back and forth between lapel and sleevehead, instead of settling pleasantly on the face, as it would with a wider peak lapel.

    "back when lower lapels were the norm": the 30s and 40s, perhaps? Anthony Eden wore 2BPL all the time, and was considered by London elites to be very well dressed, if a bit conspicuous.

    [​IMG]

    (I admit that the gorges on Eden's PLs were not low.)
     
  11. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    Fair enough, regarding PL in the 30s/40s on 2B, SB suits. However I should qualify my earlier statements by saying that, whether SB or DB, three-piece suits look better as PL. In fact, I can't imagine buying a notch three-piece as all of the good ones I've seen recently have been peak (and among the only SB PL suits I don't think are starting to look dated). Also, gorge height matters less when the actual peak is on the higher side (which I imagine is directly related to lapel width).
     
  12. Kaplan

    Kaplan Well-Known Member

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  13. Douglas

    Douglas Well-Known Member

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    :foo: thread, now six weeks old, has yet to break the 1000 poasts mark. Shoot, we're not even scratching at 300 yet.

    [​IMG]
     
  14. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    Is this a screen shot of the opening credits of "Law & Order: Panama"?
     
  15. Lensmaster

    Lensmaster Well-Known Member

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    Two button is an error because clooney is wearing a tux and not a standard suit. There are details that make the tux more formal and stand out from an ordinary suit. One button SB is one thing and a higher more dramatic peak lapel would be another. That is why though notch lapel dinner jackets have been around since at least the 30's they were not as common as others because they tend to make the jacket look ordinary.
     
  16. Testudo_Aubreii

    Testudo_Aubreii Well-Known Member

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    ^ Great photo, Kaplan. Love that long collar/low gorge on Paul Henreid's DB. I think a moderately wide PL with a gorge just above the middle of the armscye is best for the man who's taller than average and slender. Notice how much more subtle Henreid's peaks are than Eden's, even though the gorge on Eden's coat is only about an inch higher. (Admittedly, Henreid's peak is also horizontal, while Eden's is sharply upswept.)
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2012
  17. mordecai

    mordecai Well-Known Member

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    I haven't read beyond the first post, but I will be attending a black tie art world event in Los Angeles in a couple of weeks. I doubt anyone I know who is going even owns a black suit, let alone a dinner jacket. I will report back with observations. I predict at least one pair of shorts and an unbuttoned shirt.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2012
  18. TimelesStyle

    TimelesStyle Well-Known Member

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    As well as multiple d-bag dinner jackets (like with sparkly shit on them) paired with jeans and sneakers, not to mention at least one or two of the obligatory tuxedo t-shirts.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2012
  19. mordecai

    mordecai Well-Known Member

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    Doubtful, as this is not 2001 and the event is not taking place at Sky Bar.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2012
  20. Bradford

    Bradford Well-Known Member

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    Good thread - I was just thinking about the fact that I haven't had the opportunity to go to a black tie affair recently. For a few years I was attending at least 2 or 3 a year. I've been to charity functions, graduate school events and even a black-tie wedding.

    Unfortunately, since starting my work in Sacramento, I've only had the opportunity to wear my tuxedo to two events. The first was a performance of a choral society to which I belonged for a year and the other was a Yelp event, with a black and white theme.

    It's sad, because I own all the proper attire, although my jacket does have notch lapels, but it rarely gets off the hanger. As someone suggested earlier I like the idea of just wearing it out to a bar or club some night, a-la How I Met Your Mother, but I'm just afraid that I would either be mistaken for the waiter or asked where's the rest of the wedding party.
     
    Last edited: Jan 19, 2012

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