Black blazer for going out downtown?

[breakaway01]

I do not want something formal, e.g. a suit jacket worn on its own. But I also do want something that is an actual blazer/sport jacket, i.e. not something that's really just a heavy shirt or something like that. Nothing that is aggressively "stylish".

for this kind of look you should not be looking for something cut like a traditional navy sportcoat but in a black fabric. Although you wrote that you don't want anything "aggressively 'stylish'" I think you have to deliberately go more stylish in the cut. IMO a natural-shouldered black blazer with 3.5" lapels is exactly what you don't want to do. For example, think more structured shoulders and bigger lapels and/or a slouchier DB worn open. I like the jacket that @ladislav.jancik posted above. I am a big fan of Husbands Paris -- this is sold out but just to give you another idea:

SINGLE-BREASTED JACKET IN CORDUROY - BLACK

single-breasted two-button black jacket • classic fit • in Italian cotton corduroy • fully canvased • fully lined • made in Italy

husbands-paris.com

 

[__k]

The Anthology out of HK / Taiwan did a black collection last fall.
Surprised I haven't seen this mentioned yet.

Pitch Black — The Anthology

Pitch black doesn’t mean black. It means completely dark - the main colour range and theme we skirt around for our Fall/Winter 23 Collection. We are also taking the opportunity to explore the full-fledged gratification of black, an introduction of a new colour to the house of The Anthology.

theanthology.net

They have a nice corduroy DB blazer that you can see Buzz Tang styling at Pitti with trousers or paired more casually with denim. Another option in line with the others mentioned earlier.

 

[ladislav.jancik]

The Anthology out of HK / Taiwan did a black collection last fall.
Surprised I haven't seen this mentioned yet.

Pitch Black — The Anthology

Pitch black doesn’t mean black. It means completely dark - the main colour range and theme we skirt around for our Fall/Winter 23 Collection. We are also taking the opportunity to explore the full-fledged gratification of black, an introduction of a new colour to the house of The Anthology.

theanthology.net

They have a nice corduroy DB blazer that you can see Buzz Tang styling at Pitti with trousers or paired more casually with denim. Another option in line with the others mentioned earlier.

Good suggestion, black corduroy in thinner wale is also very good choice IMO. I've ordered 12 wale black corduroy from Brisbane Moss for my next blazer / sport coat when i saw The Anthology 'Black' Lookbook few weeks ago.

 

[abecedary]

I confess I never would have considered black corduroy, but this looks pretty interesting.

 

[paul6001]

First post! I need some advice, and it's a bit hard to explain what I want, even though I think I have a good idea about it....

I'm a middle-aged guy, regular build. I have a wide range of good tailored clothing. But right now, I am looking for a black blazer, something that I would wear if I were going out to a "nice" place in a major city.

I do not want something formal, e.g. a suit jacket worn on its own. But I also do want something that is an actual blazer/sport jacket, i.e. not something that's really just a heavy shirt or something like that. Nothing that is aggressively "stylish". This would be something to wear with, on the bottom, anything from jeans to some variety of tailored pants, and on the top, anything from a solid black T-shirt to a dress shirt (but without a tie). Basically, something that's appropriate when I need to be more dressed-up than a sweater, but less dressed-up than a suit or a jacket/tie. More stylish than a Brooks Brothers blue blazer. Let's say the archetypal occasion would be a first date at the best cocktail bar in a major city.

I would have expected this to be a fairly common item, but I don't know how to go about searching for it. I used to have a Kilgour jacket that was good for this, but it wore out (silk/wool; it was lovely but not very robust).

All suggestions gratefully received!

 

[paul6001]

As a middle aged resident of Tribeca (downtown New York City), the life I lead is something like the advice for which you're looking. More days than not, I'm wearing a black blazer with jeans. It's my go-to look. So I have a few thoughts on the style that I've acquired over the years.

First, regarding some earlier comments:

—Your anti-blue instinct is dead on. Blue is for the country club, black is for the night club. I'm not saying that they won't let you into the au courant restaurant in a blue jacket but you'll definitely be getting a table in the back, next to the bathroom.

—Texture is key. Paramount. Essential. It's what tells the world that you're not wearing the top half of a suit. Black cashmere is perfect. A soft, plush cashmere jacket works in NYC from October through April. To those that (wrongly) believe that a black jackets are for waiters, texture is the antidote. Plus, a black cashmere jacket and a scarf is surprisingly warm. Often, it's all you need even in the depth of winter. And there's nothing more chic than a blazer and a scarf. Very Parisian. Often, it'll be the only color in your all dark NYC uniform.

You and I are (sadly) too old to be the height of cool but we still want to be in the game, right? A good way to judge your perfect jacket is to look at what the real beau monde is wearing, then pull back the extremes until you feel comfortable. So what are they wearing these days? Too tight, too short, too expensive.

I can't abide the stretch marks formed by buttoning a jacket that's too-small around the waist but I don't want a lot of extra fabric, either. Don't go overboard but go as tight as you dare. Maybe a little tighter. Especially if this isn't an everyday thing. (A painful realization: I used to think those guys in super tight clothes were so rail-thin or so young that they could wear that stuff without it binding or feeling tight. Nope. Their clothes feel as tight as they look. But the ur-hipsters are willing to pay a price for beauty. And you're also going to have to pay up. Not as much as them, you're not interested in looking exactly like that. But a little tighter than you're used to. Just special occasions, right?)

That 28-year old editor at Conde Nast is also wearing a jacket that ends about waist level and leaves his butt exposed. You don't want that. You won't feel right if you're not vaguely age appropriate. But push yourself. You don't want a hem lower than the first knuckle on your thumb. As short as you can put up with. Men in Thom Browne are always on the list.

Think soft, think unstructured. Again, maybe you don't want to go all the way. My advice is always the same: Push yourself. Right now, Neapolitan style is the sweetest of sweet spots. Minimal padding in the shoulders, minimal canvas. You wouldn't look askance at Attolini, would you? That's the fit that you're going for. Hopefully for somewhere less than $10,000.

This isn't exactly blazer-specific but a few thoughts on pants. Rule #1: No creases. Those lovely grey, wool trousers of yours? Leave them at home on this trip. Those pants will kill whatever you manage to achieve with the jacket. A sport coat and trouser combination looks more labored over and considered than a suit with an open shirt. (Nothing wrong with that look, either. It was 30-40 years ago that Tom Ford advised men to wear black suits and white shirts and it's still true today.) There is no place downtown so formal that they would frown on a blazer and jeans but if you think it's too casual, get yourself some black jeans. Just nothing with a crease. Please.

I've been working this look for decades. There must be more but that's all that comes to mind at the moment. I'm happy to answer any follow up questions you have. And once you have the jacket, it's time to work on the attitude. Starting point: "This place is SO five minutes ago." Never out of style.

 

[rjc149]

Good post above. Whether or not to wear black tailoring depends on its congruency with your overall outfit and your whole "vibe."

Black tailoring is avoided by the sartorially conscious because it evokes menial social status. You're a waiter, bell hop, chauffer, doorman, a clueless kid etc. which is largely the opposite of what tailored clothing is supposed to do. When paired with black chinos, this is doubly so. It's a no-win situation for most of us.

Black odd items (odd jacket, shirt or trousers) can be pulled off provided your overall presentation is also fashion-forward and not intended to be formal. That's why fabulously wealthy and gay fashion designers can wear jet-black suits and even advocate for them, probably well aware it makes the rest of us look like we're here to clear your plates or like we were invited to a black tie event and didn't know what to do. Tom Ford is fashion forward. He can wear black suits.

If you're a middle-aged man (let's put you between 40 and 65) trying to evoke a more youthful, artistic, edgy vibe and you're not too tired at night to go out mingling, a black blazer could definitely look good on you if that's your only tailored piece.

 

[maxalex]

As a middle aged resident of Tribeca (downtown New York City), the life I lead is something like the advice for which you're looking. More days than not, I'm wearing a black blazer with jeans. It's my go-to look. So I have a few thoughts on the style that I've acquired over the years.

First, regarding some earlier comments:

—Your anti-blue instinct is dead on. Blue is for the country club, black is for the night club. I'm not saying that they won't let you into the au courant restaurant in a blue jacket but you'll definitely be getting a table in the back, next to the bathroom.

—Texture is key. Paramount. Essential. It's what tells the world that you're not wearing the top half of a suit. Black cashmere is perfect. A soft, plush cashmere jacket works in NYC from October through April. To those that (wrongly) believe that a black jackets are for waiters, texture is the antidote. Plus, a black cashmere jacket and a scarf is surprisingly warm. Often, it's all you need even in the depth of winter. And there's nothing more chic than a blazer and a scarf. Very Parisian. Often, it'll be the only color in your all dark NYC uniform.

You and I are (sadly) too old to be the height of cool but we still want to be in the game, right? A good way to judge your perfect jacket is to look at what the real beau monde is wearing, then pull back the extremes until you feel comfortable. So what are they wearing these days? Too tight, too short, too expensive.

I can't abide the stretch marks formed by buttoning a jacket that's too-small around the waist but I don't want a lot of extra fabric, either. Don't go overboard but go as tight as you dare. Maybe a little tighter. Especially if this isn't an everyday thing. (A painful realization: I used to think those guys in super tight clothes were so rail-thin or so young that they could wear that stuff without it binding or feeling tight. Nope. Their clothes feel as tight as they look. But the ur-hipsters are willing to pay a price for beauty. And you're also going to have to pay up. Not as much as them, you're not interested in looking exactly like that. But a little tighter than you're used to. Just special occasions, right?)

That 28-year old editor at Conde Nast is also wearing a jacket that ends about waist level and leaves his butt exposed. You don't want that. You won't feel right if you're not vaguely age appropriate. But push yourself. You don't want a hem lower than the first knuckle on your thumb. As short as you can put up with. Men in Thom Browne are always on the list.

Think soft, think unstructured. Again, maybe you don't want to go all the way. My advice is always the same: Push yourself. Right now, Neapolitan style is the sweetest of sweet spots. Minimal padding in the shoulders, minimal canvas. You wouldn't look askance at Attolini, would you? That's the fit that you're going for. Hopefully for somewhere less than $10,000.

This isn't exactly blazer-specific but a few thoughts on pants. Rule #1: No creases. Those lovely grey, wool trousers of yours? Leave them at home on this trip. Those pants will kill whatever you manage to achieve with the jacket. A sport coat and trouser combination looks more labored over and considered than a suit with an open shirt. (Nothing wrong with that look, either. It was 30-40 years ago that Tom Ford advised men to wear black suits and white shirts and it's still true today.) There is no place downtown so formal that they would frown on a blazer and jeans but if you think it's too casual, get yourself some black jeans. Just nothing with a crease. Please.

I've been working this look for decades. There must be more but that's all that comes to mind at the moment. I'm happy to answer any follow up questions you have. And once you have the jacket, it's time to work on the attitude. Starting point: "This place is SO five minutes ago." Never out of style.

The idea that a navy jacket would earn you a table near the toilet seems absurd on its face. That said, having just spent several months working in America (from New England to LA and Seattle), I’m sort of willing to believe anything. The absurd prices of mediocre restaurant food (even before the absurd tip extortion among other fees more common on despised airlines); the compulsive hipster striving; the obsession with class and status in a country that doesn’t actually have nobility much less royalty as we do in Europe…I suppose I can suspend disbelief and accept that NY restaurants banish the navy jackets to the rest room foyer. But then where do all those Americans in cargo shorts and Crocs get seated? Perhaps on the actual “thrones”?

 

[paul6001]

The idea that a navy jacket would earn you a table near the toilet seems absurd on its face. That said, having just spent several months working in America (from New England to LA and Seattle), I’m sort of willing to believe anything. The absurd prices of mediocre restaurant food (even before the absurd tip extortion among other fees more common on despised airlines); the compulsive hipster striving; the obsession with class and status in a country that doesn’t actually have nobility much less royalty as we do in Europe…I suppose I can suspend disbelief and accept that NY restaurants banish the navy jackets to the rest room foyer. But then where do all those Americans in cargo shorts and Crocs get seated? Perhaps on the actual “thrones”?

No one wears cargo shorts and crocs to go out in downtown NYC. Ever. On pain of death.

I don't know where you're visiting America from but I can assure you that, based on my extensive experience in Europe's capital cities, the competition for style and status is just as intense in any of them. Perhaps not as obsessed with the color black as we are in NYC but woe to the unsuspecting who wanders into a Parisian hot spot without the right look. A few years back, I was in one of the Costes Brothers boites and they had bouncers checking labels before admitting anyone. And I thought New York was rough!

 

[maxalex]

No one wears cargo shorts and crocs to go out in downtown NYC. Ever. On pain of death.

I don't know where you're visiting America from but I can assure you that, based on my extensive experience in Europe's capital cities, the competition for style and status is just as intense in any of them. Perhaps not as obsessed with the color black as we are in NYC but woe to the unsuspecting who wanders into a Parisian hot spot without the right look. A. few years back, I was in one of the Costes Brothers boites and they had bouncers checking labels before admitting anyone. And I thought New York was rough!

Never had a label checked in Paris by a bouncer—luckily, as he probably wouldn’t recognize the name of my bespoke tailor in Rome. But it would be a good excuse to ditch the fashionistas on the Faubourg (ex-gf was a designer so been there done that) and taxi out to Montreuil where the Africans still play live music all night. No labels necessary but yeah everybody looks great.

 

[paul6001]

Never had a label checked in Paris by a bouncer—luckily, as he probably wouldn’t recognize the name of my bespoke tailor in Rome. But it would be a good excuse to ditch the fashionistas on the Faubourg (ex-gf was a designer so been there done that) and taxi out to Montreuil where the Africans still play live music all night. No labels necessary but yeah everybody looks great.

Luckily, it’s not an either/or decision. Although to many on the Fauberg it might seem that way.

 

[paul6001]

The idea that a navy jacket would earn you a table near the toilet seems absurd on its face. That said, having just spent several months working in America (from New England to LA and Seattle), I’m sort of willing to believe anything. The absurd prices of mediocre restaurant food (even before the absurd tip extortion among other fees more common on despised airlines); the compulsive hipster striving; the obsession with class and status in a country that doesn’t actually have nobility much less royalty as we do in Europe…I suppose I can suspend disbelief and accept that NY restaurants banish the navy jackets to the rest room foyer. But then where do all those Americans in cargo shorts and Crocs get seated? Perhaps on the actual “thrones”?

"[T]he obsession with class and status in a country that doesn’t actually have nobility much less royalty as we do in Europe."

Is it just me or does the idea that having a formal upper, i.e., capitalist, class being a prerequisite to social striving read like a page out of Das Kapital? I certainly don't know everything about everywhere but I'm guessing that social striving and class competition happens no matter who controls the means of production or how they got it. I haven't been to Australia, a country that also has neither nobility or royalty (given that it started life as a penal colony), but I'm sure they have plenty of class issues. Same with Panama. Singapore, too. And . . .

Judging from your post, the months you spent in the U.S. didn't leave you oozing with pro-USA spirit. I feel a vague obligation to disagree and stick up for my homeland. But reading the news out of New Hampshire makes that very hard to do.

 

[maxalex]

"[T]he obsession with class and status in a country that doesn’t actually have nobility much less royalty as we do in Europe."

Is it just me or does the idea that having a formal upper, i.e., capitalist, class being a prerequisite to social striving read like a page out of Das Kapital? I certainly don't know everything about everywhere but I'm guessing that social striving and class competition happens no matter who controls the means of production or how they got it. I haven't been to Australia, a country that also has neither nobility or royalty (given that it started life as a penal colony), but I'm sure they have plenty of class issues. Same with Panama. Singapore, too. And . . .

Judging from your post, the months you spent in the U.S. didn't leave you oozing with pro-USA spirit. I feel a vague obligation to disagree and stick up for my homeland. But reading the news out of New Hampshire makes that very hard to do.

I never said, much less criticized, social striving; I said hipster striving. I am aware that Americans, now more than ever since the shrinking of the postwar middle class, are striving to get by. America has become a nation of beggars, with the outstretched hand replaced by the POS tablet and its tip suggestions. It’s Morocco with man buns instead of Berber turbans.

 

[paul6001]

I never said, much less criticized, social striving; I said hipster striving. I am aware that Americans, now more than ever since the shrinking of the postwar middle class, are striving to get by. America has become a nation of beggars, with the outstretched hand replaced by the POS tablet and its tip suggestions. It’s Morocco with man buns instead of Berber turbans.

I apologize for the misquote but I think the point still stands. You should know that I'm the least rah-rah guy you'll ever meet. Still, "a nation of beggars" seems a little strong. Despite grotesque income inequality, the U.S. has the strongest economy in the world by a laughable margin.

If you're trying to provoke someone into putting his hand over his heart and singing "God Bless America," I'm afraid I can't oblige you. (And you certainly seem to be trying to provoke someone into something.) This forum is full of men in extraagant bespoke suits. That seems like a right-leaning crowd. One of them will probably be happy to react.

Let me go back a bit to one of your earlier remarks. You apparently don't like the "tip suggestions" that are standard on most restaurant bills these days. I'm also not a fan, especially when the choices are 25, 30, or 35 percent. I'm guessing, however, that you're European and oppose tipping in general since it's compris in Europe. I'd advise you to take a more cosmopolitan view of the matter, however, and realize that things are just done differently here. You sound a like an American raging against the English for driving on the left side of the road.

What I don't like, however, is the importation from Europe of the electronic doo-hickey that forces you to leave a tip while the waiter is standing next to you, holding that very doo-hickey while you sign. I prefer to do my tipping in private. I'm a sport, generally speaking, but when the time comes to send a message, I prefer to send it quietly.

If you're not to get a reaction—and who doesn't like to, every once in a while—I'd have to describe your remarks as rude and over-the-top angry. You must have had a terrible time on your recent tip. I'd suggest staying home. I can't imagine any of my countrymen weeping at your absence. Where are you from, anyway?

It's all the same to me, though. I'm not from the USA. Rather, in Spalding Grey's inimitable phrase, I'm from a small island off the coast of America.

 

[maxalex]

I apologize for the misquote but I think the point still stands. You should know that I'm the least rah-rah guy you'll ever meet. Still, "a nation of beggars" seems a little strong. Despite grotesque income inequality, the U.S. has the strongest economy in the world by a laughable margin.

If you're trying to provoke someone into putting his hand over his heart and singing "God Bless America," I'm afraid I can't oblige you. (And you certainly seem to be trying to provoke someone into something.) This forum is full of men in extraagant bespoke suits. That seems like a right-leaning crowd. One of them will probably be happy to react.

Let me go back a bit to one of your earlier remarks. You apparently don't like the "tip suggestions" that are standard on most restaurant bills these days. I'm also not a fan, especially when the choices are 25, 30, or 35 percent. I'm guessing, however, that you're European and oppose tipping in general since it's compris in Europe. I'd advise you to take a more cosmopolitan view of the matter, however, and realize that things are just done differently here. You sound a like an American raging against the English for driving on the left side of the road.

What I don't like, however, is the importation from Europe of the electronic doo-hickey that forces you to leave a tip while the waiter is standing next to you, holding that very doo-hickey while you sign. I prefer to do my tipping in private. I'm a sport, generally speaking, but when the time comes to send a message, I prefer to send it quietly.

If you're not to get a reaction—and who doesn't like to, every once in a while—I'd have to describe your remarks as rude and over-the-top angry. You must have had a terrible time on your recent tip. I'd suggest staying home. I can't imagine any of my countrymen weeping at your absence. Where are you from, anyway?

It's all the same to me, though. I'm not from the USA. Rather, in Spalding Grey's inimitable phrase, I'm from a small island off the coast of America.

I'm American, from the same island, living in Italy for many years. I no longer recognize the country of my birth. And I meant no offense, except maybe to European royalty which I despise.