The MTM and Bespoke Trousers Thread

[comrade]

Your cut choices: high rise, etc would not be my preference, but the result is
superb! They fit beautifully. However, a 9000 km trip for me to your tailor
might be excessive.

 

[GBR]

Here are my trousers made by Tarasenko Tailoring (northern Poland). In contrast to a usual fabric (grey flannel), the cut is quite rare. With no waistband, but unlike the famous Hollywood top, here are side regulators and fishtail for suspenders. In combination with a high rise, they mask great my short legs.
Very like how they are balanced. The top is rigid and heavy compared to the hips and pant leg, which give a lot of freedom.

With this project, I have seen every advantage of bespoke trousers compared to MTM.

That is pair of trousers I would be delighted to own. They look good.

 

[ChasingStyle]

They look fantastic. Congrats

 

[AdmiralThrawn]

Thank you, gents. I am glad, you like it. Here is the view on some details. Buttonholes and stitches are totally hand-finished.

 

[KWang94]

This is why I am skeptical to on-line Made to Measure companies, and will always try to talk people out of it. The company sent this gentleman a trial garment, had a live video call to see what adjustments they thought needed to be made and sent him these somewhere around five months later:

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Was just casually going through old SF threads while bored at work and I realized this was me

 

[JohnMRobie]

I’ve always struggled with trousers with my posture and body. Working on fixing that. First remote fitting to speed the process up before a second in person fitting over the winter.

 

[taxgenius]

I’ve always struggled with trousers with my posture and body. Working on fixing that. First remote fitting to speed the process up before a second in person fitting over the winter.
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Still needs work, such as the wrinkles on the upper side, but surely your tailor noticed that as well.

 

[Despos]

I’ve always struggled with trousers with my posture and body. Working on fixing that. First remote fitting to speed the process up before a second in person fitting over the winter.
View attachment 1850503 View attachment 1850504 View attachment 1850505 View attachment 1850506

Is this the first trouser made with this tailor?
Difficult to fit because different areas of the trouser need adjustments that are contradictory with pattern angles in other areas.
Top of the back part needs a "sway back" adjustment. The darts should be moved and reshaped to align with the fullest part of the seat.
Angle of the center back seam needs to be changed for a "full seat" but the out seam straightened. These angles are counter to each other.
Front panel needs adjusting too.
Have one client with a very similar body type except he has a bit of a protruding abdomen.
Have to think creatively to get to the appropriate balance of the pattern angles.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Is this the first trouser made with this tailor?
Difficult to fit because different areas of the trouser need adjustments that are contradictory with pattern angles in other areas.
Top of the back part needs a "sway back" adjustment. The darts should be moved and reshaped to align with the fullest part of the seat.
Angle of the center back seam needs to be changed for a "full seat" but the out seam straightened. These angles are counter to each other.
Front panel needs adjusting too.
Have one client with a very similar body type except he has a bit of a protruding abdomen.
Have to think creatively to get to the appropriate balance of the pattern angles.

Fascinating to hear the intricacies - Appreciate the feedback and hearing about the nuance and contradictions required.

Not the first pair with this tailor but the first pair with attempting a higher rise and a little fuller cut. The previous pairs were a little lower rise, little less room through the crotch, little more slim generally.

 

[Despos]

Same issues on this pair.
Needs sway back adjustment on the back part.
How the front panels go lower from hip to fly is wrong.
Should be a straight line from hip to hip. Not lower at center front/fly for your body type.
Grey pair is better than the finished blue pair but could be improved.

Big difference in where the side/out seam hits on your body.
The finished blue pair, side seam is almost centered front to back. Slightly forward of center.
Grey trouser; side seam is much more forward.
There is no right or wrong spot for the seam to be. Just commenting on the difference

 

[hitsuji]

Just recieved a lovely first pair of MTM Cavalry Twill Trousers from Spencer’s Trousers in the UK

Fit feels good although I suspect the seat is too tight for the pleats since they have opened up while standing up. Theres about 5cm of excess - would that be sufficient to let out or is the fit fine?

 

[twuthetiger]

First pair of bespoke trousers. The waist is getting a little so I’m going to have the tailor take it in. Besides that, I’m not how the fit is elsewhere. Did I go too much on the slim side?

 

[classicalthunde]

Does anyone have any recs for MTM or (affordable) bespoke that will copy a pair of well fitting RTW trousers? I'm aware of Luxire, but seeing if there is anyone else out there that people use/recommend?

 

[hitsuji]

Does anyone have any recs for MTM or (affordable) bespoke that will copy a pair of well fitting RTW trousers? I'm aware of Luxire, but seeing if there is anyone else out there that people use/recommend?

Bespoke trousers will create a new pattern entirely and not copy anything you have (unless you are talking about features e.g side adjusters) then sure you can speak to them about those.

Where are you based?

 

[classicalthunde]

Bespoke trousers will create a new pattern entirely and not copy anything you have (unless you are talking about features e.g side adjusters) then sure you can speak to them about those.

Where are you based?

I'm in the US not too far from NYC.

I'm not necessarily interested in the rigamarole of the full bespoke process, just want to send these trousers (which are OTR but fit perfectly) in and have them copied in a couple of different fabrics.