The Devil's Lair - The ONI Denim Thread

[mdubs]

ONI Denim is one of the most elusive brands to get any information about and yet their Selvedge Denim products are among the best on the market. This thread is designed to share thoughts, insights, reviews, pictures of ONI Denim's amazing products. Whether a pair of traditional Selvedge Denim pants or one of their amazing Type II or Type III Jackets or rare shirts, this is the place to tout it or to comment on it.

Over the years, I have mainly been a shoe guy with a passion for Shell Cordovan footwear and products, but my eye has been turned on to ONI early in 2020. Thanks much and I look forward to seeing where this thread goes!

-Mike

 

[mdubs]

What are your essential three ONI Denim pairs? This is an exceptionally difficult question to me, but if I were to only be able to pick three pairs, it would be their specialty SECRET Denim, the lightweight "Kiraku" Denim, and the slubby "Kihannen" Denim.

When I think of ONI Denim, the first model I think about is their SECRET Denim. What makes it so special? Well, I would distill it down to the unique shade and the super soft texture, given the 20 ounce weight (or 21.5 ounces if you get the ONI x Tank variant. The shade is just a truly lovely Blue-Green color that I have never seen matched. This is my go-to recommendation for your first pair of ONI Denims, for good reason.

Second to me is their lightweight "Kiraku" Denim. Weighing in at only 12 ounces, you would think that these are just run of the mill jeans, but the loose weave on these are just unsurpassed. After only a few wears, these feel like I am wearing sweatpants instead of a pair of high end selvedge denim. Not only does it provide an unmatched comfort, but the "Kiraku" Denim's loose weave provides a truly unmistakable ONI style, with a nice and light slub texture to it that I have never seen in anything around the 12 ounce weight-class.

Finally, the "Kihannen" Denim. The "Kihannen" Denim is just one of those lust-worthy fabrics. I actually got crazy obsessed searching for the "Kase" that ONI offered in the later 2019 timeframe, shortly before I discovered the brand, but I could not find my size in-stock anywhere. Low and behold, ONI released the "Kihannen" Denim fabric and it immediately satisfied that desire. It featured the same amazing variegated yarn text that the "Kase" had along with the same unique Selvedge ID. The "Kihannen" and "Kase" exemplify what ONI is all about. Amazing jeans with an amazing loose weave that set the bar for all other denim manufacturers.

I really wanted to include their recent ONI Awa Shoai x Kakishibu Selvedge Denim, but I candidly felt like that was cheating. They are truly amazing, but being an Aizome, it is just not a fair fight and the price class is completely different.

What are your thoughts? Thanks much!
-Mike

 

[Terry Mac's 'Tache]

View attachment 1879056

ONI Denim is one of the most elusive brands to get any information about and yet their Selvedge Denim products are among the best on the market. This thread is designed to share thoughts, insights, reviews, pictures of ONI Denim's amazing products. Whether a pair of traditional Selvedge Denim pants or one of their amazing Type II or Type III Jackets or rare shirts, this is the place to tout it or to comment on it.

Over the years, I have mainly been a shoe guy with a passion for Shell Cordovan footwear and products, but my eye has been turned on to ONI early in 2020. Thanks much and I look forward to seeing where this thread goes!

-Mike

Very happy to see this thread! I have long been an advocate for ONI as I believe that the deadstock 22oz Kabuki Selvedge is the most interesting denim I have ever encountered bar none. Perhaps not as durable as Ironheart's 21, 21/23 or 25 Oz but visually incredible with the most beautiful hand. The famed Secret denim is also amazing stuff with the most recently produced 19Oz 20th anniversary moca weft fabric being particularly amazing. Oishi San is allegedly close to retiring so who knows how much longer this brand will be producing goods as he has no succession plan in place. One of the brands that are closest to my heart for their totally unique products. A truly fantastic brand.

 

[Terry Mac's 'Tache]

What are your essential three ONI Denim pairs? This is an exceptionally difficult question to me, but if I were to only be able to pick three pairs, it would be their specialty SECRET Denim, the lightweight "Kiraku" Denim, and the slubby "Kihannen" Denim.

When I think of ONI Denim, the first model I think about is their SECRET Denim. What makes it so special? Well, I would distill it down to the unique shade and the super soft texture, given the 20 ounce weight (or 21.5 ounces if you get the ONI x Tank variant. The shade is just a truly lovely Blue-Green color that I have never seen matched. This is my go-to recommendation for your first pair of ONI Denims, for good reason.

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Second to me is their lightweight "Kiraku" Denim. Weighing in at only 12 ounces, you would think that these are just run of the mill jeans, but the loose weave on these are just unsurpassed. After only a few wears, these feel like I am wearing sweatpants instead of a pair of high end selvedge denim. Not only does it provide an unmatched comfort, but the "Kiraku" Denim's loose weave provides a truly unmistakable ONI style, with a nice and light slub texture to it that I have never seen in anything around the 12 ounce weight-class.

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Finally, the "Kihannen" Denim. The "Kihannen" Denim is just one of those lust-worthy fabrics. I actually got crazy obsessed searching for the "Kase" that ONI offered in the later 2019 timeframe, shortly before I discovered the brand, but I could not find my size in-stock anywhere. Low and behold, ONI released the "Kihannen" Denim fabric and it immediately satisfied that desire. It featured the same amazing variegated yarn text that the "Kase" had along with the same unique Selvedge ID. The "Kihannen" and "Kase" exemplify what ONI is all about. Amazing jeans with an amazing loose weave that set the bar for all other denim manufacturers.

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I really wanted to include their recent ONI Awa Shoai x Kakishibu Selvedge Denim, but I candidly felt like that was cheating. They are truly amazing, but being an Aizome, it is just not a fair fight and the price class is completely different.

What are your thoughts? Thanks much!
-Mike

@mdubs how have you found the Awa Shoai x Kakishibu? From where did you purchase? I regretted not purchasing the PBJ Sumi so been racking my brains on whether I would regret not forking out for these.

 

[mdubs]

Very happy to see this thread! I have long been an advocate for ONI as I believe that the deadstock 22oz Kabuki Selvedge is the most interesting denim I have ever encountered bar none. Perhaps not as durable as Ironheart's 21, 21/23 or 25 Oz but visually incredible with the most beautiful hand. The famed Secret denim is also amazing stuff with the most recently produced 19Oz 20th anniversary moca weft fabric being particularly amazing. Oishi San is allegedly close to retiring so who knows how much longer this brand will be producing goods as he has no succession plan in place. One of the brands that are closest to my heart for their totally unique products. A truly fantastic brand.

Thanks and welcome to the thread! I have been thinking of creating this thread for months and finally got to it this morning. Definitely agree with your sentiment towards ONI. Agree on how they compare as well to Iron Heart. Both are great brands, but IH is definitely more known!

I have been wondering about the long term strategy for the ONI brand. I am not aware of any mentorship or succession plan for Oishi San, but I hope that there is something there that I am not aware of! I had heard, via Denimio, that it is possible that the latest run of Black SECRET Denim is the last time that they are going to make Black, due to a lack of availability of the Black dye. I grabbed a pair this past month. Hope that isn’t a trend!

-Mike

 

[mdubs]

@mdubs how have you found the Awa Shoai x Kakishibu? From where did you purchase? I regretted not purchasing the PBJ Sumi so been racking my brains on whether I would regret not forking out for these.

Oh man, the Kakishibu is amazing. It is definitely in a different price category, but the texture, the weave, and the color is phenomenal. I also have the PBJ Aisome x Sumi and these are on the same page, possibly even nicer. But I do have a bias towards ONI. I personally would recommend getting them as I know that I would regret not getting them someday! I can post some pictures in a few.

-Mike

 

[Terry Mac's 'Tache]

Thanks and welcome to the thread! I have been thinking of creating this thread for months and finally got to it this morning. Definitely agree with your sentiment towards ONI. Agree on how they compare as well to Iron Heart. Both are great brands, but IH is definitely more known!

I have been wondering about the long term strategy for the ONI brand. I am not aware of any mentorship or succession plan for Oishi San, but I hope that there is something there that I am not aware of! I had heard, via Denimio, that it is possible that the latest run of Black SECRET Denim is the last time that they are going to make Black, due to a lack of availability of the Black dye. I grabbed a pair this past month. Hope that isn’t a trend!

-Mike

Thanks for the welcome and your efforts to raise awareness of this fantastic brand here on Styleforum. I am saddened to hear that this may be the last black secret denim. Not picked up a pair yet but I will.

I too am hoping that someone that Oishi San works with can carry on the brand when he hangs up his yarns as it would be a terrible shame for this brand to simply disappear. Many who are into denim know and love this brand but they are comparatively unknown due to the total lack of marketing, website and (as far as I am aware) flagship store.

Having tried all of the major Japanese denim brands, I have come to love ONI most as they are the most interesting. I have more IH pieces (mostly shirts), but ONI just has something magical that no other brand can compare to. The texture of the denim in hand really is a wonder. Love their jackets as well as jeans.

 

[Terry Mac's 'Tache]

Oh man, the Kakishibu is amazing. It is definitely in a different price category, but the texture, the weave, and the color is phenomenal. I also have the PBJ Aisome x Sumi and these are on the same page, possibly even nicer. But I do have a bias towards ONI. I personally would recommend getting them as I know that I would regret not getting them someday! I can post some pictures in a few.

-Mike

Yeah, I have been looking at them. Still not sure as I can only find ones with the rear pocket arctuates and all the rest of mine are without the arctuates. Are you the one who posted the review on reddit of the 255 cut? They look very beautiful and I am very tempted now. Would love to see pics!

 

[mdubs]

@Terry Mac's 'Tache here are some of the pictures that I got. I personally really like the arcs on the back pocket, so I got them from overseas so that they would have the arcs. US (and I believe UK) vendors are not allowed to sell them with arcs due to patents held by Levis. Like I said, the fabric, the color, the slub is just amazing.

And here are some pictures with them in use...

-Mike

 

[Terry Mac's 'Tache]

@Terry Mac's 'Tache here are some of the pictures that I got. I personally really like the arcs on the back pocket, so I got them from overseas so that they would have the arcs. US (and I believe UK) vendors are not allowed to sell them with arcs due to patents held by Levis. Like I said, the fabric, the color, the slub is just amazing.

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And here are some pictures with them in use...

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-Mike

Wow! These are really spectacular. Intruiging mix of kakishibu and natural indigo colours on the reverse side. Gonna check Denimio...

 

[mdubs]

Wow! These are really spectacular. Intruiging mix of kakishibu and natural indigo colours on the reverse side. Gonna check Denimio...

For sure. If Denimio doesn’t have your size in stock, check out Redcast Heritage.

-Mike

 

[Kohntarkosz]

I have two pairs of jeans, a 515 "Kiraku II" 12oz, and a 612 "Navy Warp And Weft" 12oz. Both are nice, but neither has become my favorite just due to the fit being better for me with some other pairs.

I also have a 20th Anniversary Olive-ish Grey 19oz Type III jacket. The jacket has become my favorite piece of outerwear during this exceptionally warm European winter. The denim is amazing and the fit is perfect. Unlike my Sugar Cane Type II jacket, which could have easily been my favorite, the inside pockets make the Oni much more useful.

 

[Terry Mac's 'Tache]

I have two pairs of jeans, a 515 "Kiraku II" 12oz, and a 612 "Navy Warp And Weft" 12oz. Both are nice, but neither has become my favorite just due to the fit being better for me with some other pairs.

I also have a 20th Anniversary Olive-ish Grey 19oz Type III jacket. The jacket has become my favorite piece of outerwear during this exceptionally warm European winter. The denim is amazing and the fit is perfect. Unlike my Sugar Cane Type II jacket, which could have easily been my favorite, the inside pockets make the Oni much more useful.

Nice collection. I have the Type III in Moca and also love it. Great fit as you say and it is my favourite Type III (marginally ahead of IH-9526PJ as that one runs very small and the denim has absolutely no give whatsoever).

 

[Kohntarkosz]

By the way, I got my Oni pieces (and some other nice stuff) from Redcast Heritage. Their service is the among the best out there, so I wanted to mention them.

 

[mdubs]

I have two pairs of jeans, a 515 "Kiraku II" 12oz, and a 612 "Navy Warp And Weft" 12oz. Both are nice, but neither has become my favorite just due to the fit being better for me with some other pairs.

I also have a 20th Anniversary Olive-ish Grey 19oz Type III jacket. The jacket has become my favorite piece of outerwear during this exceptionally warm European winter. The denim is amazing and the fit is perfect. Unlike my Sugar Cane Type II jacket, which could have easily been my favorite, the inside pockets make the Oni much more useful.

Welcome over Kohn! Yeah, ultimately, fit is king and the most driving factor determining what you wear (or don’t). Glad that you found the Anniversary Jacket. Their jackets are quite amazing.

I have a few myself, but just haven’t gotten into Denim jackets yet. I candidly haven’t figured out what to wear them with. I feel Denim on Denim is cool, but too much for me. I guess I need to wear them the next time I wear Khakis. I have their standard Secret Denim Type III and their Indigo X Indigo Secret Type II.

Cheers,
Mike