The button stance thread

[landshark]

A half inch lower at most. It looks good as it is right now.

 

[CHECKstar]

Originally Posted by landshark

A half inch lower at most. It looks good as it is right now.

Cheers, thanks for the feedback guys.

 

[chasingred]

Originally Posted by CHECKstar

Cheers, thanks for that. I tend to agree with your analysis. Out of interest, what would be the optimal stance? Currently on that jacket the top button sits about 1.5 inches above my navel. I am thinking ideal level would only be half an inch lower, no?

I would say 0.75 inch lower. Spoo's buttoning point looks almost at his navel, if you notice. It's really more about the cut of the suit, size of the lapels, and what else you're going to wear with it. With a vest, you can get away with a much lower buttoning point obviously. But yes, generally on yours, I would think that you could go down about 0.75 inches.

 

[negusnegas]

"If the person wearing the suit is short, the V should be slightly deeper, in order to accentuate the torso a bit and make the person look a bit taller. If the person is very tall, the person already has some strong horizontal lines going, so they can afford to have a smaller V if they wanted to."

Chasing Red, I am not sure I would fully agree with the above based on my admittedly limited knowledge on the subject, but I believe the goal of a well tailored suit is to provide the person with an idealized silhouette. Historically, I believe that would be tall with wide shoulders, narrow hips and long legs, so a short person wouldn't necessarily want to accentuate their torso too much as it actually makes their legs and overall body appear shorter. I think that's partially why the thom browne look with a much higher buttoning point is virtually unworkable for tall people, but can within moderation still work for those who are vertically challenged. I may be wrong and I will certainly defer to any tailors in the audience, but that's been my take away from what I have read.

 

[Matt S]

The proper button stance maximizes both the length of the legs and the breadth of the chest and shoulders. A high button stance lengthens the legs but makes the chest and shoulders less masculine. Often I see a high button stance make the body appear like a pear, not something we want. A low button stance makes the chest and shoulders look bigger but at the cost of leg length, not something that the short man wants. There's an ideal point on each individual's body where the right compromise is made.

 

[voxsartoria]

Place a sturdy brick lengthwise on the floor.

Tense your abs, then balance yourself face down and spread eagled with the brick supporting you where you think your jacket should button. Wear shoes, but not a hat.

Try different balance points. When you find the point at which your body feels most like a parachutist in free fall, you have...voilà !..found your best buttoning point.

Or so Despos says.


- B

 

[Poindexter]

Wait,

What?

P

 

[Ianiceman]

It was the latest in a seemingly endless, side splittingly hilarious - and enormously helpful - series of contributions to the board. The wit and wisdom know no bounds.

 

[Matt S]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Place a sturdy brick lengthwise on the floor.

Tense your abs, then balance yourself face down and spread eagled with the brick supporting you where you think your jacket should button. Wear shoes, but not a hat.

Try different balance points. When you find the point at which your body feels most like a parachutist in free fall, you have...voilà !..found your best buttoning point.

Or so Despos says.


- B

Can you post a picture of yourself demonstrating this technique?

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Ianiceman

It was the latest in a seemingly endless, side splittingly hilarious - and enormously helpful - series of contributions to the board. The wit and wisdom know no bounds.

Thank you for your kind words. It's gratifying to be recognized, even in a small way, for the good that I attempt to do for this wonderful online community of awesome dressers.

- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Matt S

Can you post a picture of yourself demonstrating this technique?

I'll try...I'll wait for a steady wind and do it outside so that some pinwheeling shots can be taken.


- B

 

[Reevolving]

The button stance too high! I say.......The damn button stance too high!! It's at his RIBS... The top button IS TOO DAMN HIGH!! Also, look at the excessive sleeve diameter

 

[Matt S]

Originally Posted by Reevolving

The button stance too high!
I say.......The damn button stance too high!!
It's at his RIBS...
The top button IS TOO DAMN HIGH!!

Also, look at the excessive sleeve diameter

The buttons are almost where the top two buttons on a 3-button jacket should be. It would look okay if the jacket were cut for both to fasten.

 

[Reevolving]

So, I got this one right?

 

[aj_del]

I prefer the lowest button to be around the waist of the trousers