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blewnote1

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the newly posted navy clissold suit was originally posted with a clissold title and tag but all the copy type referenced minnis fresco instead and it reflected 280 gsm instead of 310 gsm fabric weight. was fixed at some point overnight or this morning.

it looks like general consensus is that the clissold fabric used by spier (i assume a crispaire) breathes a little less well than minnis fresco. presumably it breathes better than a traditional super hundreds etc. i know 2-3 regular posters here have a spier version of the clissold fabric from SS23. curious whether anyone would care to quantify those differences even if only anecdotally or otherwise provide some data points (e.g. humid days preference for fresco // temperature above X degrees too hot for either/both // both too airy for cold weather // dude just stick with linen, etc).

i have historically gone all in on linen suiting for spring summer because i am a weirdo and have been able to get away with it, but while i remain a weirdo i probably can't get away with linen for my summer suiting needs quite so extensively moving forward. soaking up all the anecdotal data i can find within one page of google search results but fully expecting to just buy some stuff and figure it out for myself and then buy some more stuff, etc etc on into the distance.

I live in New Orleans, so the performance of various fabrics matters a lot to me during the summer months.

I picked up the navy Clissold suit and a grey Minnis Fresco-Lite suit last summer. I would say that the Minnis wears slightly cooler, but not necessarily all that noticeably all things considered. If you're wearing a suit with shirt and tie in the dead of summer here, it's going to be hot if you're not inside in AC. A brief foray into the heat is bearable, certainly moreso if there's a breeze, but if you're outside for any lenght of time you'll be a little damp.

I think both are fine year round here, with the Clissold feeling like it might be better in slightly cooler temps due to the heavier weight, but any sort of breeze and you'll definitely feel it. I wore the Clissold to a wedding in San Francisco in Oct (outside, early evening) and was happy that I had brought a light overcoat as the temps dipped down into the 60s and a light breeze picked up.

The Clissold drapes better than the Minnis, but probably is because it's heavier weight. Both have a the characteristic rough hand of high twist wool, but the Clissold is scratchier. Not uncomfortable to wear, but noticeable.

In the dead of the summer I'd be inclined to reach for the lighter weight Minnis over the Clissold, but they're both fine and I probably wear them equally for the variety.
 

ColdEyedPugilist

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Hi all, I ordered the navy chalk stripe flannel suit a few days ago. Opted out of paying taxes and duties, as the cost was under Australian Customs’ $1K threshold, and there should not have been any taxes or duties whatsoever.

Read a few posts from users with similar experiences… Has anyone received a reply from S&M as to why the calculations are apparently erroneous, and whether they intend to fix this?
 

St1X

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I live in New Orleans, so the performance of various fabrics matters a lot to me during the summer months.

I picked up the navy Clissold suit and a grey Minnis Fresco-Lite suit last summer. I would say that the Minnis wears slightly cooler, but not necessarily all that noticeably all things considered. If you're wearing a suit with shirt and tie in the dead of summer here, it's going to be hot if you're not inside in AC. A brief foray into the heat is bearable, certainly moreso if there's a breeze, but if you're outside for any lenght of time you'll be a little damp.

I think both are fine year round here, with the Clissold feeling like it might be better in slightly cooler temps due to the heavier weight, but any sort of breeze and you'll definitely feel it. I wore the Clissold to a wedding in San Francisco in Oct (outside, early evening) and was happy that I had brought a light overcoat as the temps dipped down into the 60s and a light breeze picked up.

The Clissold drapes better than the Minnis, but probably is because it's heavier weight. Both have a the characteristic rough hand of high twist wool, but the Clissold is scratchier. Not uncomfortable to wear, but noticeable.

In the dead of the summer I'd be inclined to reach for the lighter weight Minnis over the Clissold, but they're both fine and I probably wear them equally for the variety.
If you live in New Orleans, nothing will work for you. Best you can do is some lightweight open weave high twist fabric in an unconstructed jacket in light colors
 

alex_

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Got my first S&M order today. Overall am impressed with the quality, but disappointed at how different the colour looks in person compared to photos. In real life, this camel looks almost green mixed with brown.
 

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sdjackofclubs

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1712237744456.png


These I would buy. And maybe I will even though they just look like Soludos with the Soludos tag removed and a Spier & Mackay logo added on the inside. But I guess all espadrilles just look like Soludos.
 

Genericuser1

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I typically wear boat shoes in the summer for shorts or casual wear I assume espadrilles are used in a similar vein? For dress casual and the office wear I usually loafer, weaves and just dress shoes.

I haven't tried any of S&M's footwear as I have more than enough and there aren't any wide sizes. These I might chance.
 

sdjackofclubs

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I typically wear boat shoes in the summer for shorts or casual wear I assume espadrilles are used in a similar vein? For dress casual and the office wear I usually loafer, weaves and just dress shoes.

I haven't tried any of S&M's footwear as I have more than enough and there aren't any wide sizes. These I might chance.
Lounge shoes. I wear them around the house and to the pool, mostly.
 

A12321

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I live in New Orleans, so the performance of various fabrics matters a lot to me during the summer months.

I picked up the navy Clissold suit and a grey Minnis Fresco-Lite suit last summer. I would say that the Minnis wears slightly cooler, but not necessarily all that noticeably all things considered. If you're wearing a suit with shirt and tie in the dead of summer here, it's going to be hot if you're not inside in AC. A brief foray into the heat is bearable, certainly moreso if there's a breeze, but if you're outside for any lenght of time you'll be a little damp.

I think both are fine year round here, with the Clissold feeling like it might be better in slightly cooler temps due to the heavier weight, but any sort of breeze and you'll definitely feel it. I wore the Clissold to a wedding in San Francisco in Oct (outside, early evening) and was happy that I had brought a light overcoat as the temps dipped down into the 60s and a light breeze picked up.

The Clissold drapes better than the Minnis, but probably is because it's heavier weight. Both have a the characteristic rough hand of high twist wool, but the Clissold is scratchier. Not uncomfortable to wear, but noticeable.

In the dead of the summer I'd be inclined to reach for the lighter weight Minnis over the Clissold, but they're both fine and I probably wear them equally for the variety.
I bought the Clissold in navy in 2023 and found the pants to be scratchy. That along with the jacket feeling a drop too short is the reason I sold it. Never even wore it out.
 

sdjackofclubs

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Espadrilles and pavement are mortal enemies. They're great for the beach but that's about it ime.
They appear to have rubber soles. Wouldn't wear them to walk around the city all day, but a quick trip to the grocery store? Heck yeah!
 

wilcthree

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the newly posted navy clissold suit was originally posted with a clissold title and tag but all the copy type referenced minnis fresco instead and it reflected 280 gsm instead of 310 gsm fabric weight. was fixed at some point overnight or this morning.

it looks like general consensus is that the clissold fabric used by spier (i assume a crispaire) breathes a little less well than minnis fresco. presumably it breathes better than a traditional super hundreds etc. i know 2-3 regular posters here have a spier version of the clissold fabric from SS23. curious whether anyone would care to quantify those differences even if only anecdotally or otherwise provide some data points (e.g. humid days preference for fresco // temperature above X degrees too hot for either/both // both too airy for cold weather // dude just stick with linen, etc).

i have historically gone all in on linen suiting for spring summer because i am a weirdo and have been able to get away with it, but while i remain a weirdo i probably can't get away with linen for my summer suiting needs quite so extensively moving forward. soaking up all the anecdotal data i can find within one page of google search results but fully expecting to just buy some stuff and figure it out for myself and then buy some more stuff, etc etc on into the distance.

All things being equal, I prefer Minnis and don't LOVE the Clissord/Crispaire whatever we want to call it.

I have a non-SM suit in Crispaire (which is allegedly the same, but suppose there could be minor differences), and I find the Crispaire a bit less gritty/more fluid. Perhaps a bit less porous, but you won't notice a dramatic IRT breathability I don't think. General consensus seems to be that it is a bit less wrinkle resistant, relative to fresco. I haven't put the trousers through its paces enough yet to say, but the fluidity in my mind lends some credence to it.

I wish SM would have just cranked out a few mohair blend Fresco full canvas pieces instead. Alas, I'm a whiner, it seems.

and, speaking of linen, REALLY wish that denim Leomaster would have been a Neo cut. That would have made for an A+ fuckabout suit.

I live in New Orleans, so the performance of various fabrics matters a lot to me during the summer months.

I picked up the navy Clissold suit and a grey Minnis Fresco-Lite suit last summer. I would say that the Minnis wears slightly cooler, but not necessarily all that noticeably all things considered. If you're wearing a suit with shirt and tie in the dead of summer here, it's going to be hot if you're not inside in AC. A brief foray into the heat is bearable, certainly moreso if there's a breeze, but if you're outside for any lenght of time you'll be a little damp.

I think both are fine year round here, with the Clissold feeling like it might be better in slightly cooler temps due to the heavier weight, but any sort of breeze and you'll definitely feel it. I wore the Clissold to a wedding in San Francisco in Oct (outside, early evening) and was happy that I had brought a light overcoat as the temps dipped down into the 60s and a light breeze picked up.

The Clissold drapes better than the Minnis, but probably is because it's heavier weight. Both have a the characteristic rough hand of high twist wool, but the Clissold is scratchier. Not uncomfortable to wear, but noticeable.

In the dead of the summer I'd be inclined to reach for the lighter weight Minnis over the Clissold, but they're both fine and I probably wear them equally for the variety.
Agree on the above assessments of the Clissold vs Minnis. Clissold isn't a bad pick up, just be mindful of how it's different from the Minnis as noted above. In fact, I'm wearing the Clissold tomorrow for a presentation. Slight preference goes to the Minnis, though.
 
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wilcthree

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I'm considering having an odd dinner jacket made in the burgundy Filarte fabric. I know, I know. Filarte, blah, blah. Shawl with grosgrain lapels and trimmings. Lightly padded to as per fall 2023 tux drop to give it some structure. Maybe a slightly extended shoulder. Double vents cuz I wanna be rakish and buck tradition. I have a little change to spend so this is an experiment of sorts. Anyone wanna talk me out of it or offer opinions to the contrary?

I recently received a standalone pair of black tuxedo trousers that SM executed perfectly and way ahead of estimated time, so those are what it'd be paired with.
 

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