HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part IV (starting May 2014)

[justinkapur]

Thanks man! I threw on my off white jacket and didn't like it with the tie so this jacket won

 

[TweedyProf]

@justinkapur

I like that Shibumi tie. Is that an 8cm or 9cm? A bit more vibrant IRL than in the first pic, I think (a little peach as in the second?).

 

[semperexcelsius]

@justinkapur great fit! I think I remember seeing somewhere that you just use a single four-in-hand, so what brand do you use that gives you a large knot like that?

 

[semperexcelsius]

by the way, how much would you guys say a nice suit (but not exotic materials or anything) from TF, Zegna, or a similar brand costs on average? I've been doing some thinking about bespoke vs. brand-name RTW

 

[TweedyProf]

@justinkapur great fit! I think I remember seeing somewhere that you just use a single four-in-hand, so what brand do you use that gives you a large knot like that?

That's a Shibumi tie, but the size of a knot will depend on lots of factors: how the tie is cut, the width, material, lining, where you tie the knot, etc.

 

[semperexcelsius]

That's a Shibumi tie, but the size of a knot will depend on lots of factors: how the tie is cut, the width, material, lining, where you tie the knot, etc.

true, but I usually can't get a nice large FIH like that with my ties when I tie them so the ends are approximately the same length and they're pretty large (3.75" at the widest). Maybe the interlining is thinner or the middle is skinnier or something.

 

[TweedyProf]

true, but I usually can't get a nice large FIH like that with my ties when I tie them so the ends are approximately the same length and they're pretty large (3.75" at the widest). Maybe the interlining is thinner or the middle is skinnier or something.

With a 3.75 inch blade, I would have thought this wouldn't typically be a problem unless you are very tall, and to get a normal length tie to reach the waistband of the pant, you need to tie it longer so knotting it at the thinner end.

Nothing wrong with a DFIH, tho, if that's what it takes. There's a way to tie the tie so it isn't obviously a DFIH knot which is to draw the blade between the two loops at the knot rather than under both loops (if that makes sense).

 

[Koala-T]

by the way, how much would you guys say a nice suit (but not exotic materials or anything) from TF, Zegna, or a similar brand costs on average? I've been doing some thinking about bespoke vs. brand-name RTW

Retail between TF and Zegna is a widish gap. I think most TF retail for $4k^, Zegna between $1.5K and $3K depending.

 

[semperexcelsius]

With a 3.75 inch blade, I would have thought this wouldn't typically be a problem unless you are very tall, and to get a normal length tie to reach the waistband of the pant, you need to tie it longer so knotting it at the thinner end.

Nothing wrong with a DFIH, tho, if that's what it takes. There's a way to tie the tie so it isn't obviously a DFIH knot which is to draw the blade between the two loops at the knot rather than under both loops (if that makes sense).

I'm pretty tall, but many of my ties are from Hober, so I order them long enough for the ends to be approximately the same and reach my waistband (this also means I won't have enough length to do a DFIH). It's not a huge deal though, I've just asked David to make the knot a bit larger for my future ties.

Also, I've always had trouble with the DFIH— whenever I pull through, the inner loop always pulls way too far down, away from the outer loop, instead of just peeking out

 

[semperexcelsius]

Retail between TF and Zegna is a widish gap. I think most TF retail for $4k^, Zegna between $1.5K and $3K depending.

thanks! didn't realize that—is there a quality difference that necessitates the higher price for TF, or is it just down to the name on the label?

 

[TweedyProf]

I'm pretty tall, but many of my ties are from Hober, so I order them long enough for the ends to be approximately the same and reach my waistband (this also means I won't have enough length to do a DFIH). It's not a huge deal though, I've just asked David to make the knot a bit larger for my future ties.

Also, I've always had trouble with the DFIH— whenever I pull through, the inner loop always pulls way too far down, away from the outer loop, instead of just peeking out

Yes, so try the alternative way of tying it, which I mentioned above. Pull the blade over the inner loop and under the outer loop. This means the blade will cover the inner loop (go over the inner loop, under the outer loop, rather than under both).

 

[semperexcelsius]

Yes, so try the alternative way of tying it, which I mentioned above. Pull the blade over the inner loop and under the outer loop. This means the blade will cover the inner loop (go over the inner loop, under the outer loop, rather than under both).

thanks for the tip—any advice on how to get it right if I wanted to show the inner loop just a bit?

 

[TweedyProf]

thanks for the tip—any advice on how to get it right if I wanted to show the inner loop just a bit?

It's probably a matter of how you tighten the knot (try just tightening slowly). Best thing to do: chalk it up to Sprezz.

 

[Beatlegeuse]



thanks! didn't realize that—is there a quality difference that necessitates the higher price for TF, or is it just down to the name on the label?

I believe TF is actually made in one of Zegna's factories. If you want to read up on the construction of the suits, this is a very well-written and informative post:

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/2010/10/tom-ford.html?m=1

 

[venividivicibj]

Yeah, TF made by zegna