First Savile Row bespoke

[MontyChapman]

Actually, I am very grateful for the continuous additions to this thread. I am now considering going for a smaller tailor. I am still young so it would be nice to build up a meaningful relationship with a tailor that could potentially serve me for a long time. My friend wears his grandfather's jackets still and I have liked the look of his Meyer & Mortimer jackets. I also really like Well's of Mayfair but I don't think there are around anymore.

Are there any Henry Poole style small tailors? I think Meyer & Mortimer is quite structured like Dege and Huntsman because of their military tradition?

 

[dieworkwear]

Are there any Henry Poole style small tailors? I think Meyer & Mortimer is quite structured like Dege and Huntsman because of their military tradition?

Henry Poole doesn't strike me as having a very strong house style, so I think it depends on why you want to use them in the first place. Is it because you're in love with the company's work? Or is it because A&S and Huntsman have sometimes produced questionable clothes? If it's by process of elimination, I think you should find other reasons to use a tailor -- it shouldn't be that you go someplace simply because they're the least bad of a bunch.

I would go to a tailor because I like their work, and ideally, have seen their clothes on people who have a similar build as me. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to find photos like this. Bespoke customers are often very private people, and the stuff discussed online isn't always the whole truth. For various reasons, people are less likely to speak about bad work. If you like a tailor's work, try to reach out to current customers and ask for their private feedback. I find that people are often more truthful about their tailors over dinner and drinks (barring that, through DMs).

I also think it helps to focus on the cutter, not the house. Your friend's grandfather's Meyer & Mortimer coats were cut by someone who is long deceased (the tailors are also gone). The best approximation of what you'll get is the current work of the cutter that will be drafting your pattern and the tailor who will be making the coat. Unfortunately, few people know their tailors, but they know their cutter. Find those examples and see if you like the work. It should be a style that speaks to you, and you think will work well for your body type and lifestyle.

 

[MontyChapman]

Henry Poole doesn't strike me as having a very strong house style, so I think it depends on why you want to use them in the first place. Is it because you're in love with the company's work? Or is it because A&S and Huntsman have sometimes produced questionable clothes? If it's by process of elimination, I think you should find other reasons to use a tailor -- it shouldn't be that you go someplace simply because they're the least bad of a bunch.

I would go to a tailor because I like their work, and ideally, have seen their clothes on people who have a similar build as me. Unfortunately, it can be difficult to find photos like this. Bespoke customers are often very private people, and the stuff discussed online isn't always the whole truth. For various reasons, people are less likely to speak about bad work. If you like a tailor's work, try to reach out to current customers and ask for their private feedback. I find that people are often more truthful about their tailors over dinner and drinks (barring that, through DMs).

I also think it helps to focus on the cutter, not the house. Your friend's grandfather's Meyer & Mortimer coats were cut by someone who is long deceased (the tailors are also gone). The best approximation of what you'll get is the current work of the cutter that will be drafting your pattern and the tailor who will be making the coat. Unfortunately, few people know their tailors, but they know their cutter. Find those examples and see if you like the work. It should be a style that speaks to you, and you think will work well for your body type and lifestyle.

I like Henry Poole's style. It's in the middle (style-wise between a Huntsman and A&S) and I recently got hold of a vintage Poole - really suits me. Though, as you say, the gent who cut that suit must be long gone now.

I'll have a search on the internet for some recent photos of clients wearing the work from each tailor this week.

 

[dieworkwear]

I like Henry Poole's style. It's in the middle (style-wise between a Huntsman and A&S) and I recently got hold of a vintage Poole - really suits me. Though, as you say, the gent who cut that suit must be long gone now.

I'll have a search on the internet for some recent photos of clients wearing the work from each tailor this week.

You can sometimes find customers by going to the "tagged" section of a tailor's Instagram page. It's not a sure-fire bet, as sometimes tailoring houses have licensed ready-to-wear lines. Some people are also wearing vintage clothes. But you can find some people that way and you can ask them about their experiences. Many are willing to share their stories, even if only through private messages.

 

[Vizard]

Actually, I am very grateful for the continuous additions to this thread. I am now considering going for a smaller tailor. I am still young so it would be nice to build up a meaningful relationship with a tailor that could potentially serve me for a long time. My friend wears his grandfather's jackets still and I have liked the look of his Meyer & Mortimer jackets. I also really like Well's of Mayfair but I don't think there are around anymore.

Are there any Henry Poole style small tailors? I think Meyer & Mortimer is quite structured like Dege and Huntsman because of their military tradition?

Poole does have a house style, but equally they recognise that not everyone wants to adopt it, necessarily. So if you want two tweak their style to reflect your preference they won't have a problem with it, in my experience.

Having shopped around, it appears that you won't cleave large chunks off the price of a bespoke suit. That said, there is one tailor on the Row that is much cheaper and I won't use them again. They offer bespoke for MTM money and the product is very much MTM, regardless of them having your pattern.

It is worth obtaining a quote from Poole and a smaller tailor for the same suit. If the quote is within 20% I would opt for Poole. That is not to say I am holding them up as the paragon of bespoke tailoring, I just recognise that you are drawn to them and I know they will do a good job for you. You may save 20% elsewhere and end up unhappy. Which is why I started using Row tailors in the first place, I had wasted too much money with provincial firms that made me some quite ropey clothes.

 

[MontyChapman]

Poole does have a house style, but equally they recognise that not everyone wants to adopt it, necessarily. So if you want two tweak their style to reflect your preference they won't have a problem with it, in my experience.

Having shopped around, it appears that you won't cleave large chunks off the price of a bespoke suit. That said, there is one tailor on the Row that is much cheaper and I won't use them again. They offer bespoke for MTM money and the product is very much MTM, regardless of them having your pattern.

It is worth obtaining a quote from Poole and a smaller tailor for the same suit. If the quote is within 20% I would opt for Poole. That is not to say I am holding them up as the paragon of bespoke tailoring, I just recognise that you are drawn to them and I know they will do a good job for you. You may save 20% elsewhere and end up unhappy. Which is why I started using Row tailors in the first place, I had wasted too much money with provincial firms that made me some quite ropey clothes.

Wise words. I might call up Poole for an exact quote for a two-piece and I'll do the same for Meyer & Mortimer and etc.

 

[Frog in Suit]

Actually, I am very grateful for the continuous additions to this thread. I am now considering going for a smaller tailor. I am still young so it would be nice to build up a meaningful relationship with a tailor that could potentially serve me for a long time. My friend wears his grandfather's jackets still and I have liked the look of his Meyer & Mortimer jackets. I also really like Well's of Mayfair but I don't think there are around anymore.

Are there any Henry Poole style small tailors? I think Meyer & Mortimer is quite structured like Dege and Huntsman because of their military tradition?

I think Wells were eventually absorbed into Davies & Son under Alan Bennett.

 

[Vizard]

Wise words. I might call up Poole for an exact quote for a two-piece and I'll do the same for Meyer & Mortimer and etc.

I've never used Richard James for bespoke, but they may also be worth talking to. They are relative newcomers on the Row (1992 I think) and have a younger following.

Back when I worked in the City in the late 90s, they used to do a suit with 2 pairs of trousers for £800! I suspect that their entry price is now £4k or so.

They do a promotion on MTM in February, which is 20% off I believe. This brings one of their machine made MTM down to around £1300.

Quite a cool vibe when compared to some places on the Row. Also, they do a lot of MTM for the UK market, so are less affected by COVID restrictions.

Don't let me put you off buying a bespoke suit from one of the old guard, though. It's an experience.

 

[Frog in Suit]

Point taken, with apologies: my rant did not make allowances for the fact that many participants here reside in the States. Being in Western Europe obviously makes a large difference.

If I may add a few pointers, from personal experience:

Meyer & Mortimer are run by their cutters: Brian Lewis (MD) and Paul Munday (Director), who jointly own the firm. They have much experience between them (Incidentally, that may perhaps be the soundest criterion to choosing a tailor: how long has the cutter been at his trade? The norm was that cutters started as a teen, moving up the ranks, if talented and lucky…)

Their “house style” is, from their website and what I have read elsewhere, based around one-button coats and flat-front trousers. Being stubborn and from previous habit, I have only ordered three-button coats, and trousers with one forward pleat. I also tend to veer towards heavy cloths (I do not own anything under 11 oz., for summer) and quite like bold patterns (within reason, of course). They have always tried gently to guide me away from excess (!) but have always managed to produce what I wanted, however misguided I may have been.

The last price I have is GBP 5,040 for a three-piece lounge suit, ordered in July 2018. I have never paid a surcharge for cloth but have never felt restricted, either. I should add that I have no interest in fragile or delicate fabrics, such as cashmere. There is more than enough choice as it is.

It is easy, nowadays, to order swatches direct from the cloth merchants, for a small price. I have often done that in recent years, when pondering a possible garment before committing myself. Much better than having regrets later.

 

[hedfunk]

On this topic - Kirby Allison has just released an interview with John Kent and Terry Haste - an interesting watch.

 

[Purplelabel]

To OP, Chittleborough and Morgan also has an excellent reputation.

+1 they’re flawless.

Maurice Sedwell are very good too.

 

[Frog in Suit]

On this topic - Kirby Allison has just released an interview with John Kent and Terry Haste - an interesting watch.

Thank you for the video. I also found the following video of Malcolm Plews being interviewed in Meyer & Mortimer's old shop (you can see Brian Lewis moving in the background at one point). I feel it gives a good feel for the traditional SR houses, and pointers on how to choose a tailor.
An interview with Savile Row cutter Malcolm Plews - YouTube

 

[dauster]

I'm surprised more people aren't recommending Brioni. Based on PS' review, it's comparable in price to the names already mentioned, and apparently very well done.

I would consider it but NM in SF is at best very trying when it comes to tailoring ability (only offer Brioni MTM) and I think only the flagship stores (closest one in LA) offer the true bespoke program. I really like simon's jacket.

 

[dauster]

I recall when Hitchcock chastised me for supposedly telling someone s/he could photograph my clothing in progress. I haven't a clue who that would have been, don't recall doing it. But when you are on Style Forum or Ask Andy ... anything can and often does happen. Hitchcock informed me that A&S was all about discretion and accommodating my request could RUIN them. I informed him I hadn't a clue what he was talking about, but he never apologized. He let me know he wasn't happy about my references to them on the Internet. Sadly, that brought them customers after the decline had begun.

After that incident, I never returned. Nothing lost. By that time, I wasn't happy with the results.

I was surprised when John rose to the level he did. My memory of him from earlier days never saw him in that position. Halsey, I understood. John just didn't have the same sense of style.

well sorry man not a cool experience. the Downton Abbey days are unfortunately long gone.

 

[dauster]

You can try the cheaper Huntsman bespoke. All of the cutting and tailoring is done by a Huntsman cutter but the construction is done in China (I think). Normal Huntsman bespoke starts at like 5000GBP+ while the cheaper bespoke starts at 3500GBP.

Richard Anderson at this point is nearly as expensive as Huntsman.

richard anderson MTM for 3500 bucks was pretty good but pandemic delayed things. now I have a slightly too tight suit but its wearable. now that I have learned more I am inclined to give other tailors a try but last I saw of my wife's bespoke jacket it looked pretty good. hopeful I will get soon (this year).