Dormeuil Amadeus vs. H&S Target 10-11 oz

[Will]

After listening to Michael Alden on the topic of heavier fabrics, I switched to 13 oz worsted and flannel for fall and winter in the Bay area, and 15 oz. tweed suitings in winter. 22 oz. tweed jackets for that matter, with 13 oz. flannel trousers.

Compared to 11 oz. cloth, the 13s drape better and crease less. The only suitings I buy under 13 oz. these days are frescos and mohair blends for summer.

I'm wearing an older A&S from 8 oz. tropical wool today and it's nowhere near as elegant as the suits from heavier cloth.

 

[Film Noir Buff]

Originally Posted by Will

After listening to Michael Alden on the topic of heavier fabrics, I switched to 13 oz worsted and flannel for fall and winter in the Bay area, and 15 oz. tweed suitings in winter. 22 oz. tweed jackets for that matter, with 13 oz. flannel trousers.

Compared to 11 oz. cloth, the 13s drape better and crease less. The only suitings I buy under 13 oz. these days are frescos and mohair blends for summer.

I'm wearing an older A&S from 8 oz. tropical wool today and it's nowhere near as elegant as the suits from heavier cloth.


22 oz tweed jackets? Dah-yum.
I dont think I have anything against the heavier fabrics except an exceptional circulatory system and global warming. I actually own a Porter and harding donegal suit in a 19oz and it really isnt that hot due to porousness of the material. I wouldnt make a meal of it though.

It is odd that there isnt as much of a difference between 11 and 13 oz as say 9 to 11 oz. Of course weave has a lot to do with comfort. A 7 oz flannel can and will be much hotter on the body than a 13 oz fresco.

Dugdale actually makes the true Tory 14/15 oz worsted and unfinished worsted stuuff that drapes, wears and performs like Iron but looks handsome all the time. It is also dirt cheap considering its quality. A suit of this will last forever.

 

[CommercialDoc]

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I just picked out two Dormeuil Amadeus fabrics for my second and third bespoke suits. It seems like there is a preference for H & S and Lesser fabrics on SF but the Dormeuil was quite nice and also being closed out by the tailor and sent back to the distributor if not sold.

I was wondering what prices people are willing to pay for a suit made in Dormeuil Amadeus? My suit is fully custom and will involve a minimum of three fittings.

On a side note, do you prefer hand sewn buttonholes or machine sewn?

 

[GQgeek]

Originally Posted by CommercialDoc

Sorry to resurrect an old thread but I just picked out two Dormeuil Amadeus fabrics for my second and third bespoke suits. It seems like there is a preference for H & S and Lesser fabrics on SF but the Dormeuil was quite nice and also being closed out by the tailor and sent back to the distributor if not sold.

I was wondering what prices people are willing to pay for a suit made in Dormeuil Amadeus? My suit is fully custom and will involve a minimum of three fittings.

On a side note, do you prefer hand sewn buttonholes or machine sewn?

The Amadeus book has some of the nicer 100s that I've seen. There were a couple in that book that caught my attention but I eventually went with two Scabal fabrics for my most recent commissions.

My tailor charged his base price for a jacket made from the Amadeus book, which at the time was $2400, but is now $2650. Suits start at around 3k

And by all means do not ruin a bespoke suit with machine-sewn buttonholes! Although I can't imagine any tailor worth his salt that would actually do such a thing.

Lastly, many of the posters here do have a penchant for the firms you've mentionned, but that shouldn't blind you when it comes to fabric selection. H&S has some awful fabrics as well as great ones. Scabal, H&S, Lesser, LP all make good fabrics but no one merchant will have everything you want or need.

 

[Roger]

Originally Posted by GQgeek

H&S has some awful fabrics as well as great ones.
Is that right? Can you tell us which ones they are so we can avoid them?

 

[GQgeek]

Originally Posted by Roger

Is that right? Can you tell us which ones they are so we can avoid them?

As you know, H&S is just a fabric merchant. They don't own the mills. While the majority of their fabrics are high quality, once in a while you'll find a dud. There was a book from 2003 or 2004 that my tailor really didn't like. I couldn't tell you specifically which one since H&S has never adopted a particularly logical way of naming their books. Regardless, my tailor threw-out the whole book just so clients wouldn't choose from it. He had made a jacket from it and it started to pill prematurely.

My only caution is that a fabric should be judged for what it is, not who made it. I always ask my tailor how he likes working with a particular fabric because chances are he's worked with most of the books he carries and can provide valuable feedback on durability and maintenance.

For what it's worth, my preference in this particular case would be the Amadeus. I really like several of the fabrics in that book and can vouch that they'll tailor and wear well.

 

[Fast Eddie]

I guess I am bringing back an old old old thread from the past... did a search on Dormeuil Amadeus fabric. Based on what others have posted, price for a suit with this fabric would be around $2.5K to $3? Or is there a range? Is Amadeus a series? with Super 100, 120, 150, 180 and so on?

A colleague brought me to a local tailor with some amazing house special. Amoung them is the Dormeuil Amadeus Super 120. My colleague had already ordered one suit in that fabric. I was planning to get a nice Canali suit with my bonus but he is really convincing in talking me into trying a custom made suit at least once. For the price... I could almost get two for the price of a regular price Canali suit. Some of the house cloth include Zegna fabric but cost more than the Dormeuil. The touch and feel of the Dormeuil Amadeus feels fabulous.

My main question, is $1,299 a good deal for a custom made suit with the Dormeuil Amadeus Super 120 fabric?

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by Fast Eddie

My main question, is $1,299 a good deal for a custom made suit with the Dormeuil Amadeus Super 120 fabric?

Amadeus is pretty average stuff imo. More importantly for you, the guy you're thinking of using doesn't sound like a real bespoke tailor.

 

[dragon8]

Originally Posted by Fast Eddie

I guess I am bringing back an old old old thread from the past... did a search on Dormeuil Amadeus fabric. Based on what others have posted, price for a suit with this fabric would be around $2.5K to $3? Or is there a range? Is Amadeus a series? with Super 100, 120, 150, 180 and so on?

A colleague brought me to a local tailor with some amazing house special. Amoung them is the Dormeuil Amadeus Super 120. My colleague had already ordered one suit in that fabric. I was planning to get a nice Canali suit with my bonus but he is really convincing in talking me into trying a custom made suit at least once. For the price... I could almost get two for the price of a regular price Canali suit. Some of the house cloth include Zegna fabric but cost more than the Dormeuil. The touch and feel of the Dormeuil Amadeus feels fabulous.

My main question, is $1,299 a good deal for a custom made suit with the Dormeuil Amadeus Super 120 fabric?

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Amadeus is pretty average stuff imo. More importantly for you, the guy you're thinking of using doesn't sound like a real bespoke tailor.

Who is your tailor?

 

[TorontoEX]

Where are you located?

 

[Fast Eddie]

I am in Toronto. The tailor shop is in downtown but I am getting the fittings at their Markham location. Apparently, the tailor doesn't go downtown too often, so I have to go there for measurement and fittings. Its a dinky little place, I wouldn't have bought from it if my co-worker hasn't tried them out before. Anyway, its still a bit of a gamble... hope it turns out ok.

 

[AbsoluteStyle]

Hi All,

Looking to commission my first bespoke suit with WW Chan.

Anyone have any recommendations on fabric books?

I'm just after a simply charcoal suit for office wear for the Sydney Australian climate. Preferably an all-year round suit.

Cheers!