Allen Edmonds Appreciation Thread 2017- News, Pictures, Clothing, accessories, etc.

[peppercorn78]

Fifth avenue is definitely several degrees more conservative than Cornwallis. Brogued adelaides are lower on the formality scale than oxfords.

 

[Count de Monet]

This is my formality ranking of the AE classics:

Carlyle > Park Ave > Cornwallis = Fifth Ave > Strand = Mcallister

Carlyle can barely pass for black tie (you technically need tuxedo pumps for that, but a Carlyle is good).

Park Ave and Carlyle are good for most business formal, weddings, funerals, etc. Hard to dress down with jeans but the Park Ave is a bit easier to dress down.

Cornwallis and Fifth Ave are good for banker business casual in the strictest places, and if you're not in a super conservative industry (basically everywhere but banking in England), then strand and mcallister are great for business casual.

Of course these are only guidelines. No one will kill you if you wear a pair of Strands as business formal in conservative industries, but there are those who may look down on you for it.

I think the "you could almost wear it as a pump substitute" argument is misplaced in this discussion of relative formality for at least two reasons. First, a sleek, high polished stitch cap would be at least as good a substitute with a tux as the type of plain toe the Carlyle is. Second, the models mentioned are all business dress shoes and ought to be ranked in that context, not formal wear.

I would rearrange them thus, assuming all are black:

1. Plain stitchcap (e.g. PA/Hopkinson)
2. Punch cap (e.g. 5th Ave.)
2. (tie) whatever the Carlyle is
4. Cornwallis
5. Semi-brogue (e.g. Strand)
6. Full brogue (e.g. Mac)

BTW, I'm not sure if you mean the 5th Ave is a business casual shoe or it is a shoe that one can get away wearing with business casual clothes. I would definitely respectfully disagree with the former and probably disagree with the latter as well. A punch cap is, to me, almost the equal of a stitch cap in how and where it is worn. A black or dark brown punch cap is a pretty darn formal shoe in the context of business dress and I think there are better options for what I think of as business casual.

Just my opinion. It's worth what you paid me for it.

 

[St Hubbins]

Loving the double shot of Dress Code Dogma today.

 

[M2511]



Fifth avenue is definitely several degrees more conservative than Cornwallis. Brogued adelaides are lower on the formality scale than oxfords.

I agree with this. The quarter brogue (5th ave) is going to be your most formal shoe with broguing IMO. An Adelaide can be quite formal but once you introduce the brogue and medallion it definitely changes its formality.

 

[dfwcowboy]

Loving the double shot of Dress Code Dogma today.

I hope the thread police doesn't run afoul of me, but I must ask during low tea, does one's pinky go up or down?

 

[cc808314]



I try to start near 60% of asking, though I believe it depends on a few factors. The most discussed factor here is time. How many times they have gone unsold. (You can check this box as a filter when searching.) Related to most auctions, though I am not sure how much it matters with this seller in particular, is the time remaining. I also think he tends to let go of certain models that are more common. 

Thanks! We made a deal

 

[peppercorn78]



I hope the thread police doesn't run afoul of me, but I must ask during low tea, does one's pinky go up or down?

Look, anyone can wear whatever they want. There's no need for hurt feelings.

But this thread does exist in STYLE forum, in the "Classic Menswear" sub forum. "Classic Menswear" has conventions, like it or not. AE didn't just invent these designs out of their own creative brains. These are classic styles that have historical purposes and contexts going back centuries in some cases.

I have no clue why anyone would go to the time and expense of assembling a collection of dress shoes and not learn about the functions and proper uses of each. Kind of like buying different cooking ingredients and throwing them together haphazardly.

But to each his own. Do you, bro.

 

[peppercorn78]



Loving the double shot of Dress Code Dogma today.

If one cannot discuss style in "style forum," then I suppose we're left with posting pictures of meat and small prairie mammals...

 

[mreams99]

Yes, indeed.
Weasel -- The other yellow meat.

 

[dfwcowboy]

Classic Menswear" has conventions, like it or not.

I do like conventions, but primarily attend for the free booze in the hospitality suite and promotional handouts.

 

[M2511]



I do like conventions, but primarily attend for the free booze in the hospitality suite and promotional handouts.

I see what you did there....

Back to the conversation from last night, what on earth was AE thinking with that new Grantham. Shockingly disappointing spring collection for shoes coupled with price hikes. Apologies if anyone liked these new and recycled (for the worse) offerings but I wouldn't wear these if they were free. Ruin the shanon drive? Check. Cove Drive aka CH awful. At least when the Unions came out they were offset with the HM and some better options. Also noticed several of these are made in DR. If it weren't for the belts I'd say the entire new portion is a pretty big step back. Thoughts?

 

[BackInTheJox]

I see what you did there....

Back to the conversation from last night, what on earth was AE thinking with that new Grantham. Shockingly disappointing spring collection for shoes coupled with price hikes. Apologies if anyone liked these new and recycled (for the worse) offerings but I wouldn't wear these if they were free. Ruin the shanon drive? Check. Cove Drive aka CH awful. At least when the Unions came out they were offset with the HM and some better options. Also noticed several of these are made in DR. If it weren't for the belts I'd say the entire new portion is a pretty big step back. Thoughts?

I'd cosign all of this.

Some of the new belts look ok, but not sure what they will actually look like in person (vs the photos).

 

[mreams99]



I see what you did there....

Back to the conversation from last night, what on earth was AE thinking with that new Grantham. Shockingly disappointing spring collection for shoes coupled with price hikes. Apologies if anyone liked these new and recycled (for the worse) offerings but I wouldn't wear these if they were free. Ruin the shanon drive? Check. Cove Drive aka CH awful. At least when the Unions came out they were offset with the HM and some better options. Also noticed several of these are made in DR. If it weren't for the belts I'd say the entire new portion is a pretty big step back. Thoughts?

I didn't see it as a step backward. It just looked like they didn't take a step at all.
Don't they pay people to design shoes?
That's all that they could come up with?

 

[ProfilaBinding]

Anyone on here have Bourbon Carlyles? I'm curious how it looks in real world photos.

I have them. They look pretty nice. Unfortunately, when I had mine refinished recently (screwed up the color because of my ignorance of the AE Conditioner Cleaner) the new burnishing left some darker marks that now highlight the creases. It doesn't look bad, but I would prefer they not be there. The color though, is much improved and looks closer to when I first got them.

 

[Count de Monet]

While I agree with the gist of Peppercorn's comments, I interpreted DFW's and St. H's remarks as humorous and good natured, not some sort of sarcastic criticisms about the merits of discussion of convention.

Or conventions.

And I'm too lazy to put them back on for a pic but imagine a picture of the almost Valentine Red Sauk Drives used to combat the row of storms stretching from the Great Lakes to the Gulf today. Wasn't it 30 degrees warmer yesterday?