Adrian Jules - a review

[bdavro23]

Let me start by saying that I do not work for Adrian Jules, nor have I ever. I hesitate to even get involved in this thread, but since the internet is forever I feel I have to clarify a few things in as impartial a manner as I can.

You wanted something close to Savile Row, but chose to compare your suit to a suit which is almost certainly made in China- several of the details you show are very indicative of Chinese manufacturers, so you do have to take into consideration the cost of making something in New York State versus China or India. But let's address those details.

The buttonholes. They are made by hand. The backs of handmade buttonholes are never great but your friend's suit are actually quite good, better than many you would find on Savile Row.

The lapel buttonhole from AJ is standard, especially on SR. The one on your friend's suit was, until a few years ago, only ever found in Rome and in Paris; many tailors still do not know how to even do it. There is only one SR house that I am aware of that even offers it so they are certainly not standard. They are very time-consuming and since time is one thing in abundance in China we are seeing them on practically everything being made over there now o I hesitate to use them myself anymore.

You would never find those button reinforcements on a SR suit, nor most any other high-end suit. Those are one of the details that SCREAM China to me.

The corner reinforcement on your friend's suit appears to have been made by machine and is supposed to replicate a more discreet hand-sewn mezzaluna stitch which is sometimes found on Italian garments, but not many outside of Italy. I don't recall having seen it on SR garments very often but it is certainly not something that should be considered standard; it's also the kind of thing that we see sprinkled liberally all over suits made in China to dress them up. Same goes for the piping inserted in the facing seam seen in your label photo.

The pant hem is fairly standard for a machine finish- I can't tell what we're looking at on your friend's suit- not sure what those strap things are.

The label sewing are both done by machine- nothing is inherently better than one type of stitch than the other, though the stitch used on your friend's suit is intended to mimic a hand stitch. Drago is in the same general price range as the cloth you supposedly got in your suit.

The minimal reinforcement on the lapels; these stitches are intended to hold the lapel and collar together to reduce gaping, which is a stylistic choice. Some people design a gap between the collar and lapel and put no stitching at all. It cold be argued that the point of the stitching is to hold them together and they are not in fact performing that function properly so why do it at all? I don't like the way these stitches were executed because they are visible from the right side of the lapel, as seen in your photo of the lapel edges.

I prefer to use lining under the flaps to reduce bulk. It is a stylistic preference and nothing more.

I do find it odd that they would do machine buttonholes on the sleeve and that last one is misaligned, made even more obvious by the contrasting thread.

The AJ pant is machine-made, you are correct. The other suit is done by hand, but certainly not in a manner that you would regularly find in a SR suit.

The edges of the lapel could be cleaner, yes.

I understand your disappointment but were you to take your friend's suit to Savile Row and show it to a tailor as the gold standard they would sneer. Frank Shattuck would be even less polite.

Thanks for doing the lord's work, Jeffery. You are a rare treasure around here.

 

[jefferyd]

. Or, maybe it is something they'll want to have a conversation about when working with them.

Fair enough. I wonder how upset you would have been had your conversation gone differently from the start. In fact, their pattern cutter is an ex Savile Row guy who might actually have been able to give you what you wanted, or at least guide you to some different decisions. I heard of one Neapolitan tailor who, when asked to make the type of lapel buttonhole on your friend's suit said "We don't do that here. If you want that, go to Rome"

 

[othertravel]

Do you have any pics wearing the suit?

 

[Ben W]

Fair enough. I wonder how upset you would have been had your conversation gone differently from the start. In fact, their pattern cutter is an ex Savile Row guy who might actually have been able to give you what you wanted, or at least guide you to some different decisions. I heard of one Neapolitan tailor who, when asked to make the type of lapel buttonhole on your friend's suit said "We don't do that here. If you want that, go to Rome"

Much of it may boil down to me not knowing enough to ask, and them not being proactive enough to ask me.

Their cutter being from Savile Row was mentioned multiple times through the process which is part of why I was ultimately disappointed in the level of attention to detail

Do you have any pics wearing the suit?

I'll look. If I can find any I'll be happy to post them. The notable fit issues were:

• Zipper / rise was far too long. I like a high rise; it wasn't that. It was that it was so long that going up steep stairs I was afraid it would eventually rip. I.e. it hung too low.
• This was a three piece suit and I wasn't thrilled with the way the jacket covered (or didn't cover) the vest. I brought this to their attention during fitting and it was improved but not completely resolved. You could see vest poking out under the jacket below the buttoning point, which isn't a problem I have with other suits I showed them on me.
• The pleat on the pants seemed off. We worked on this in fitting as well and again it was improved but not resolved
• There was entirely too much material across the back which created ugly bunching at the shoulders. I don't fault them for this. They did this in an attempt to resolve a problem I came to them with (arm mobility). It wasn't the right fix, but again this was a first attempt and they were trying.

 

[Crispyj]

Frank Shattuck would serve you a knuckle sandwich if you ask for anything weird for your bespoke commission.

Jokes aside, op found a tailor he's satisfied with, also got that refund, then it's a happy ending.

 

[comrade]

Frank Shattuck would serve you a knuckle sandwich if you ask for anything weird for your bespoke commission.

Jokes aside, op found a tailor he's satisfied with, also got that refund, then it's a happy ending.

Frank Shattuck's work is itself weird. A severe take on Neo-Edwarian style. With such a definite
house style, I doubt that he would make major departures from it.

BENCHMADE SUITES

Benchmade one of a kind custom suites

www.thefrankshattuck.com

 

[Crispyj]

Frank Shattuck's work is itself weird. A severe take on Neo-Edwarian style. With such a definite
house style, I doubt that he would make major departures from it.

BENCHMADE SUITES

Benchmade one of a kind custom suites

www.thefrankshattuck.com

I wouldn't say Frank's work is weird because he leans towards a certain style. Also the suit he made for Anthony Bourdain was pretty normal. Style and look is subjective, I was commenting more on workmanship and stitching details, like contrasting button holes, etc.



I'm sure if you beat him in a boxing match he'll make whatever you want

 

[comrade]

Yes, Shattucks workmanship is undoubedtly excellent. I saw the Bourdain episode and thought at the time
that I would never want those shoulders on anything I wore. Even skinny Bourdain did not need them, IMHO.

 

[Crispyj]

Yes, Shattucks workmanship is undoubedtly excellent. I saw the Bourdain episode and thought at the time
that I would never want those shoulders on anything I wore. Even skinny Bourdain did not need them, IMHO.

Seeing how Frank is so into boxing, his garments definitely give off a lot of masculinity. I agree, too much for me as well.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Seeing how Frank is so into boxing, his garments definitely give off a lot of masculinity. I agree, too much for me as well.

All roads seem to lead back to what he calls "classic 1936 unapologetically masculine" style. I almost get a soup Nazi vibe from him, where you show up to his shop, put your money on the counter, have him measure you and tell you which heavyass Marling & Evans tweed or Fox flannel he wants to dress you in, and then GTFO until he tells you to come back to try on your high-armhole, heavily roped shoulder jacket. Anything else ends with with you eating through a straw for a month.

 

[Crispyj]

All roads seem to lead back to what he calls "classic 1936 unapologetically masculine" style. I almost get a soup Nazi vibe from him, where you show up to his shop, put your money on the counter, have him measure you and tell you which heavyass Marling & Evans tweed or Fox flannel he wants to dress you in, and then GTFO until he tells you to come back to try on your high-armhole, heavily roped shoulder jacket. Anything else ends with with you eating through a straw for a month.

Like I said, you gotta knock him out to get him to listen to you I boxed at the place he was at in the Bourdain video (never met him though, then again I didn't know who he was back then).
If I ever have $4000 laying around, I'll try Frank Shattuck for a jacket to protect me from the NYC winters.

 

[Crispyj]

If Frank ever reads this, he's gonna knock me out

 

[classicalthunde]

paging @Toninno

 

[Despos]

First met Frank while he was working with Henry Stewart in the late 80's. He is also an actor, had a role in Boardwalk Empire and plays in NYC I believe.

He is a good writer too!

Now I see he does wood carving too!

 

[comrade]

All roads seem to lead back to what he calls "classic 1936 unapologetically masculine" style. I almost get a soup Nazi vibe from him, where you show up to his shop, put your money on the counter, have him measure you and tell you which heavyass Marling & Evans tweed or Fox flannel he wants to dress you in, and then GTFO until he tells you to come back to try on your high-armhole, heavily roped shoulder jacket. Anything else ends with with you eating through a straw for a month.

That's exactly the impression one gets from the Bourdain video. Contrast that with the universally "simpatico"
attitude displayed by the Grandees of Neapolitan tailoring as seen in the the O'Mast documentary. One of my
post-Lottery fantasies is to have something made by Antonio Pacino, Solito, Rubinaccci, etc. while I spend the rest
of my time in Naples eating to the point that I have to be re-measured. The last time I was there I abstained from
visiting the legendary sarti and concentrated on ruins, art, and architecture between meals.

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