Adrian Jules - a review

[compuccesory]

Let me start by saying that I do not work for Adrian Jules, nor have I ever. I hesitate to even get involved in this thread, but since the internet is forever I feel I have to clarify a few things in as impartial a manner as I can.

You wanted something close to Savile Row, but chose to compare your suit to a suit which is almost certainly made in China- several of the details you show are very indicative of Chinese manufacturers, so you do have to take into consideration the cost of making something in New York State versus China or India. But let's address those details.

The buttonholes. They are made by hand. The backs of handmade buttonholes are never great but your friend's suit are actually quite good, better than many you would find on Savile Row.

The lapel buttonhole from AJ is standard, especially on SR. The one on your friend's suit was, until a few years ago, only ever found in Rome and in Paris; many tailors still do not know how to even do it. There is only one SR house that I am aware of that even offers it so they are certainly not standard. They are very time-consuming and since time is one thing in abundance in China we are seeing them on practically everything being made over there now o I hesitate to use them myself anymore.

You would never find those button reinforcements on a SR suit, nor most any other high-end suit. Those are one of the details that SCREAM China to me.

The corner reinforcement on your friend's suit appears to have been made by machine and is supposed to replicate a more discreet hand-sewn mezzaluna stitch which is sometimes found on Italian garments, but not many outside of Italy. I don't recall having seen it on SR garments very often but it is certainly not something that should be considered standard; it's also the kind of thing that we see sprinkled liberally all over suits made in China to dress them up. Same goes for the piping inserted in the facing seam seen in your label photo.

The pant hem is fairly standard for a machine finish- I can't tell what we're looking at on your friend's suit- not sure what those strap things are.

The label sewing are both done by machine- nothing is inherently better than one type of stitch than the other, though the stitch used on your friend's suit is intended to mimic a hand stitch. Drago is in the same general price range as the cloth you supposedly got in your suit.

The minimal reinforcement on the lapels; these stitches are intended to hold the lapel and collar together to reduce gaping, which is a stylistic choice. Some people design a gap between the collar and lapel and put no stitching at all. It cold be argued that the point of the stitching is to hold them together and they are not in fact performing that function properly so why do it at all? I don't like the way these stitches were executed because they are visible from the right side of the lapel, as seen in your photo of the lapel edges.

I prefer to use lining under the flaps to reduce bulk. It is a stylistic preference and nothing more.

I do find it odd that they would do machine buttonholes on the sleeve and that last one is misaligned, made even more obvious by the contrasting thread.

The AJ pant is machine-made, you are correct. The other suit is done by hand, but certainly not in a manner that you would regularly find in a SR suit.

The edges of the lapel could be cleaner, yes.

I understand your disappointment but were you to take your friend's suit to Savile Row and show it to a tailor as the gold standard they would sneer. Frank Shattuck would be even less polite.

Holy hell. It's a good thing that I was never particularly interested in Savile Row to begin with because that's a pretty damning indictment. This is the garbage that people travel to London for?

Ben W please tell us where is your friend's suit came from because based on JeffD's review above I should keep my eye out for something from that maker!

 

[Phongmoua]

Hi folks. I hope reviews are allowed here. Apologies if not.

Please take a look at the photos comparing my Adrian Jules suit to another suit in the same price range. Which would you want? PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU VIEW THE PICTURES!!!

I really wanted a suit with the fit and finish of Savile Row without having to make multiple trips to London. I was initially very excited to work with Adrian Jules, as they advertise themselves to be Rochester, NY-based bespoke clothiers and “America’s best worn secret.” When asking around and consulting places like StyleForum I wasn’t able to find much information about them, but in reviewing their website and speaking with them on the phone it sounded like they fit the bill.

I ended up spending over $4000 on one suit, shirt, and braces, which is twice what I had spent on custom suits previously elsewhere. By far it was the most expensive outfit I had ever considered purchasing. I stretched my budget a bit to make it work, but felt I was going to be given the “true bespoke” experience. I was super excited.

When my bespoke suit was ready, I went in and tried it on. There was an initial honeymoon phase where I felt quite content, however that quickly wore off and I started seeing issues that were obvious even to my untrained eye. I have friends who are more knowledgeable than I, and so I started showing this suit around to get some opinions. The reaction was less than positive.

I wore my suit out for the first time to show it off to my more knowledgeable friends. When comparing pricing, quality of workmanship, and quality of material with their suits I started to get really upset. It was clear to me at this point that the little things I had started to notice were not the norm for such an expensive outfit. Not only was it painfully obvious that the workmanship on my Adrian Jules suit was completely inferior, I also spoke with a gentlemen that deals in fabric and found out that the material used on my $4000 suit was run of the mill fabric that wholesales for about $50 per yard. He indicated this is the quality of fabric that would be typically used on a much less expensive off the rack suit. He estimated that I overpaid by about $3000 based on the fabric alone, setting aside the poor workmanship. I started to feel sick to my stomach over this. I became embarrassed and beyond angry.

Here is my suit, next to one of my friend’s suits, which cost roughly the same amount of money. Take a look. For the price, which would you rather have? The gray suit is mine, from Adrian Jules, and the blue belongs to my friend.

When I asked about the lack of some of these details I was told… I didn’t ask for them! Really? I was supposed to ask them to produce a high quality garment for me, when paying $4000 for it? I told them up front that I was relatively new at this. I have come to find out that I am not the only one who has had problems like this. I feel that my inexperience was taken advantage of. Pictures speak a thousand words. It would be bad enough if it was just a bad fit and poor workmanship. Those are things that could’ve been addressed by a remake. But to find out that I was sold a cheap fabric at top dollar on top of it… now that’s unforgivable.

I contacted Adrian Jules multiple times requesting a refund. I provided pictures and descriptions illustrating the issues. I tried to talk to them about the fabric choice. We ended up going back and forth over eight or so emails and half a dozen text messages spanning a three week period before ultimately they allowed me to drop off the suit, and mailed me a check.

To be fair to them, I’m quite happy with the shirt, but that isn’t what I went to them for. I went for a suit, and as far as that is concerned I feel I paid for a Rolex and received a Timex. That about sums it up. I guess now I know what to look and ask for.

Hi! I'm a bit late to the party, but I'd be interested to see how the jacket fit. Do you have any photos of the jacket on you by chance?

 

[Toninno]

Hi folks. I hope reviews are allowed here. Apologies if not.

Please take a look at the photos comparing my Adrian Jules suit to another suit in the same price range. Which would you want? PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU VIEW THE PICTURES!!!

I really wanted a suit with the fit and finish of Savile Row without having to make multiple trips to London. I was initially very excited to work with Adrian Jules, as they advertise themselves to be Rochester, NY-based bespoke clothiers and “America’s best worn secret.” When asking around and consulting places like StyleForum I wasn’t able to find much information about them, but in reviewing their website and speaking with them on the phone it sounded like they fit the bill.

I ended up spending over $4000 on one suit, shirt, and braces, which is twice what I had spent on custom suits previously elsewhere. By far it was the most expensive outfit I had ever considered purchasing. I stretched my budget a bit to make it work, but felt I was going to be given the “true bespoke” experience. I was super excited.

When my bespoke suit was ready, I went in and tried it on. There was an initial honeymoon phase where I felt quite content, however that quickly wore off and I started seeing issues that were obvious even to my untrained eye. I have friends who are more knowledgeable than I, and so I started showing this suit around to get some opinions. The reaction was less than positive.

I wore my suit out for the first time to show it off to my more knowledgeable friends. When comparing pricing, quality of workmanship, and quality of material with their suits I started to get really upset. It was clear to me at this point that the little things I had started to notice were not the norm for such an expensive outfit. Not only was it painfully obvious that the workmanship on my Adrian Jules suit was completely inferior, I also spoke with a gentlemen that deals in fabric and found out that the material used on my $4000 suit was run of the mill fabric that wholesales for about $50 per yard. He indicated this is the quality of fabric that would be typically used on a much less expensive off the rack suit. He estimated that I overpaid by about $3000 based on the fabric alone, setting aside the poor workmanship. I started to feel sick to my stomach over this. I became embarrassed and beyond angry.

Here is my suit, next to one of my friend’s suits, which cost roughly the same amount of money. Take a look. For the price, which would you rather have? The gray suit is mine, from Adrian Jules, and the blue belongs to my friend.

When I asked about the lack of some of these details I was told… I didn’t ask for them! Really? I was supposed to ask them to produce a high quality garment for me, when paying $4000 for it? I told them up front that I was relatively new at this. I have come to find out that I am not the only one who has had problems like this. I feel that my inexperience was taken advantage of. Pictures speak a thousand words. It would be bad enough if it was just a bad fit and poor workmanship. Those are things that could’ve been addressed by a remake. But to find out that I was sold a cheap fabric at top dollar on top of it… now that’s unforgivable.

I contacted Adrian Jules multiple times requesting a refund. I provided pictures and descriptions illustrating the issues. I tried to talk to them about the fabric choice. We ended up going back and forth over eight or so emails and half a dozen text messages spanning a three week period before ultimately they allowed me to drop off the suit, and mailed me a check.

To be fair to them, I’m quite happy with the shirt, but that isn’t what I went to them for. I went for a suit, and as far as that is concerned I feel I paid for a Rolex and received a Timex. That about sums it up. I guess now I know what to look and ask for.

Most important is the fit of the suit. Can you post photos of how the suit fits you ?

 

[Toninno]

Just out of curiosity, I’d like to see photos of how this suit fits the customer- as the fit is most important. I know that Adrian Jules did very good work 15 years ago or so.

 

[Toninno]

If Frank ever reads this, he's gonna knock me out

I’m Frank Shattuck. You’re great 😂😂👍👍❤️👍👍

 

[othertravel]

I’m Frank Shattuck. You’re great 😂😂👍👍❤👍👍

Hey Frank, are you currently accepting new clients?

 

[Okchoctaw]

Hi folks. I hope reviews are allowed here. Apologies if not.

Please take a look at the photos comparing my Adrian Jules suit to another suit in the same price range. Which would you want? PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU VIEW THE PICTURES!!!

I really wanted a suit with the fit and finish of Savile Row without having to make multiple trips to London. I was initially very excited to work with Adrian Jules, as they advertise themselves to be Rochester, NY-based bespoke clothiers and “America’s best worn secret.” When asking around and consulting places like StyleForum I wasn’t able to find much information about them, but in reviewing their website and speaking with them on the phone it sounded like they fit the bill.

I ended up spending over $4000 on one suit, shirt, and braces, which is twice what I had spent on custom suits previously elsewhere. By far it was the most expensive outfit I had ever considered purchasing. I stretched my budget a bit to make it work, but felt I was going to be given the “true bespoke” experience. I was super excited.

When my bespoke suit was ready, I went in and tried it on. There was an initial honeymoon phase where I felt quite content, however that quickly wore off and I started seeing issues that were obvious even to my untrained eye. I have friends who are more knowledgeable than I, and so I started showing this suit around to get some opinions. The reaction was less than positive.

I wore my suit out for the first time to show it off to my more knowledgeable friends. When comparing pricing, quality of workmanship, and quality of material with their suits I started to get really upset. It was clear to me at this point that the little things I had started to notice were not the norm for such an expensive outfit. Not only was it painfully obvious that the workmanship on my Adrian Jules suit was completely inferior, I also spoke with a gentlemen that deals in fabric and found out that the material used on my $4000 suit was run of the mill fabric that wholesales for about $50 per yard. He indicated this is the quality of fabric that would be typically used on a much less expensive off the rack suit. He estimated that I overpaid by about $3000 based on the fabric alone, setting aside the poor workmanship. I started to feel sick to my stomach over this. I became embarrassed and beyond angry.

Here is my suit, next to one of my friend’s suits, which cost roughly the same amount of money. Take a look. For the price, which would you rather have? The gray suit is mine, from Adrian Jules, and the blue belongs to my friend.

When I asked about the lack of some of these details I was told… I didn’t ask for them! Really? I was supposed to ask them to produce a high quality garment for me, when paying $4000 for it? I told them up front that I was relatively new at this. I have come to find out that I am not the only one who has had problems like this. I feel that my inexperience was taken advantage of. Pictures speak a thousand words. It would be bad enough if it was just a bad fit and poor workmanship. Those are things that could’ve been addressed by a remake. But to find out that I was sold a cheap fabric at top dollar on top of it… now that’s unforgivable.

I contacted Adrian Jules multiple times requesting a refund. I provided pictures and descriptions illustrating the issues. I tried to talk to them about the fabric choice. We ended up going back and forth over eight or so emails and half a dozen text messages spanning a three week period before ultimately they allowed me to drop off the suit, and mailed me a check.

To be fair to them, I’m quite happy with the shirt, but that isn’t what I went to them for. I went for a suit, and as far as that is concerned I feel I paid for a Rolex and received a Timex. That about sums it up. I guess now I know what to look and ask for.

If you are

Hi folks. I hope reviews are allowed here. Apologies if not.

Please take a look at the photos comparing my Adrian Jules suit to another suit in the same price range. Which would you want? PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU VIEW THE PICTURES!!!

I really wanted a suit with the fit and finish of Savile Row without having to make multiple trips to London. I was initially very excited to work with Adrian Jules, as they advertise themselves to be Rochester, NY-based bespoke clothiers and “America’s best worn secret.” When asking around and consulting places like StyleForum I wasn’t able to find much information about them, but in reviewing their website and speaking with them on the phone it sounded like they fit the bill.

I ended up spending over $4000 on one suit, shirt, and braces, which is twice what I had spent on custom suits previously elsewhere. By far it was the most expensive outfit I had ever considered purchasing. I stretched my budget a bit to make it work, but felt I was going to be given the “true bespoke” experience. I was super excited.

When my bespoke suit was ready, I went in and tried it on. There was an initial honeymoon phase where I felt quite content, however that quickly wore off and I started seeing issues that were obvious even to my untrained eye. I have friends who are more knowledgeable than I, and so I started showing this suit around to get some opinions. The reaction was less than positive.

I wore my suit out for the first time to show it off to my more knowledgeable friends. When comparing pricing, quality of workmanship, and quality of material with their suits I started to get really upset. It was clear to me at this point that the little things I had started to notice were not the norm for such an expensive outfit. Not only was it painfully obvious that the workmanship on my Adrian Jules suit was completely inferior, I also spoke with a gentlemen that deals in fabric and found out that the material used on my $4000 suit was run of the mill fabric that wholesales for about $50 per yard. He indicated this is the quality of fabric that would be typically used on a much less expensive off the rack suit. He estimated that I overpaid by about $3000 based on the fabric alone, setting aside the poor workmanship. I started to feel sick to my stomach over this. I became embarrassed and beyond angry.

Here is my suit, next to one of my friend’s suits, which cost roughly the same amount of money. Take a look. For the price, which would you rather have? The gray suit is mine, from Adrian Jules, and the blue belongs to my friend.

When I asked about the lack of some of these details I was told… I didn’t ask for them! Really? I was supposed to ask them to produce a high quality garment for me, when paying $4000 for it? I told them up front that I was relatively new at this. I have come to find out that I am not the only one who has had problems like this. I feel that my inexperience was taken advantage of. Pictures speak a thousand words. It would be bad enough if it was just a bad fit and poor workmanship. Those are things that could’ve been addressed by a remake. But to find out that I was sold a cheap fabric at top dollar on top of it… now that’s unforgivable.

I contacted Adrian Jules multiple times requesting a refund. I provided pictures and descriptions illustrating the issues. I tried to talk to them about the fabric choice. We ended up going back and forth over eight or so emails and half a dozen text messages spanning a three week period before ultimately they allowed me to drop off the suit, and mailed me a check.

To be fair to them, I’m quite happy with the shirt, but that isn’t what I went to them for. I went for a suit, and as far as that is concerned I feel I paid for a Rolex and received a Timex. That about sums it up. I guess now I know what to look and ask for.

Hello Ben,

Sorry to hear about your trouble with AJ. That said, I must tell you that it was likely your own fault. Sophisticated consumers of Custom Tailoring know exactly what they want and communicate this clearly. Take reinforced pockets as an example. You pay extra for that everywhere. If you did not spec this, you wont get it. Want pick-stitched lapels? Get out your checkbook. As to the price, I would challenge you to price Savile Row, Paris, Milan etc. $4'000 is a drop in the bucket. I have done business with AJ since 1985. They are superb tailors and the Roberti family are good people.

 

[Ben W]

No doubt. I went in without knowing I'd have to ask. I assumed high quality details like those would be de facto on a "bespoke" suit. But let's not pretend that this was some amazing bargain. The fabric was cheap and the level of hand-work was minimal compared with the advertising. Overall I think I would've been much less disappointed if expectations had been set appropriately and it had been made clear that such things would've been available as paid upgrades.

I do give them a lot of credit for how they handled the situation in the end, and hopefully both sides learned something from the experience.

 

[Okchoctaw]

No doubt. I went in without knowing I'd have to ask. I assumed high quality details like those would be de facto on a "bespoke" suit. But let's not pretend that this was some amazing bargain. The fabric was cheap and the level of hand-work was minimal compared with the advertising. Overall I think I would've been much less disappointed if expectations had been set appropriately and it had been made clear that such things would've been available as paid upgrades.

I do give them a lot of credit for how they handled the situation in the end, and hopefully both sides learned something from the experience.

I find this business of "cheap" fabric perplexing. I lost ALL my custom clothing in a housefire a couple of years ago. At that point I had maybe 15 suits from AJ. You can add to that sportcoats, slacks etc. In every single case I went through bunches from Holland & Sherry, Gladson, HE Box, Loro Piana, Zegna, Wain Shiell, inter alia. I knew exactly the fabric used and the cost of same. I am curious to know why things went differently in your case. I'll admit, the cloth on your suit did not look great in the photos. Just wondering how that part of your transaction went off the rails. I'm older now and very ill awaiting liver transplant so I don't really deal with tailors anymore. That said, you really should choose your next tailor from the membership section of the Custom Tailors & Designers. CTDA is a 140+ year old trade organization for top tailors. I found the greats there. Tony Maurizio, Giacomo Trabalza, Fioravanti, Lou Myles etc. I guess most of those guys have passed by now, but you will find their successors on the site. In any case, I wish you the very best of luck. Hope your next suit is "stylin" as we used to say.