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A Sam (and David) Hober Tie Appreciation Thread

NOBD

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wool challis


For those who don't know what that is (like me until a few minutes ago...) and would like to know:


Wool Challis

The supple, lightweight woolen fabric called Challis was first woven 170 years ago
in the city of Norwich, northeast of London, and gained immediate popularity among
Victorian ladies and gentlemen. Men used it for coat linings, neckties, and fancy
waistcoats, and women wore dresses and shawls of challis because it so wonder-
fully combined the qualities of firmness and resilience with softness (the word challis
is a corruption of the Anglo-Indian word “shalee”, meaning soft) and lightness.

Challis was easily cared for, draped well, and was comfortable for almost any climate.
It was also very adaptable to a new printing-on-fabric technique devised in the Scottish
town of Paisley, where the woolens mills came to specialize in the printing of multi-
colored, small oriental patterns that had first been seen on cashmere shawls imported
to Europe from India.

Today authentic challis is still woven from 100% fine wool, and the printing of it is still
considered a meticulous craft. Traditionally the fabric was “hand block printed”: a
wooden block with a carved design on its surface was covered with dye, placed by
hand on the cloth, and pounded with a mallet. It was a terribly laborious, precise, and
time-consuming practice. The old blocks were only about ten inches square, so they
had to be dyed, set, and pounded dozens and dozens of times to produce a single color
on a single length of cloth. In a four-color paisley design, the process was repeated
four times!

Today the “screen” method is used, and the process is still done by hand, but large
screens are used instead of small blocks. And, funnily enough, this is one of those
rare times when, not only is the newer technique more efficient, but none of the beauty
is lost to progress either. There’s simply no discernible difference between block printing
and screen printing, except that the screen technique is perhaps that bit more consistent
in detail.

-G. Bruce Boyer

(Found it on the Ben Silver website.)

* * *

Sounds great, David.
 
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RogerC

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In about a week we will have more madder silk - it is finished and on its way from Macclesfield.

Interesting trivia about the "50 oz" term: It is an old term which actually refers to roughly 10 yards of silk.

We will also have beautiful wool challis solids and prints which are woven in Ireland and printed in Macclesfield for us by David Evans/Adamley.


I like, but I'm not sure my credit card shares that sentiment :D.
 

Pliny

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Ha! What construction did you request? 50 oz silk is pretty weighty, no? I usually have the lighter silks made-up as 6-folds, but wonder if 3-fold might be okay for the Madders??
standard 3 fold IIR altho David may correct me- happy with the way it gives me a thickish 4IH
Those are some bold paisleys, Pliny. Did they come with a side of patchouli? :D
:) or cream, they fruity
what other madder patterns do people love that Hober sells?
AFAIK just the 6- they're a bit more diff in person than they appear on the site
What's the proper context for those paisley madder ties? Tweed jacket and cords? Or do you wear them with a suit?
i certainly wouldn't wear with a (conservative business dress) suit myself - Bluchers, pin cords, 2 ply shirt, shawl collar cardi or plain tweed jacket- see my avatar :) .. with plains to avoid the 70s used car salesman look
curious about this as well!
something fun to play with
Hello! Atkinsons Printed Irish Poplin #6 (6-fold construction):
atkinsonsred05.jpg
Kindly regards, star314.
this tie love it, very conservative business dress
 
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OffTheRack

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A Hober print I picked up a little while ago. I love the weight and feel of the silk.



And some squares. Two madder, two Thai silk prints.

 
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Pliny

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What's the proper context for those paisley madder ties? Tweed jacket and cords? Or do you wear them with a suit?
not a great photo, but it's the idea for me
 

Cuttingboard

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David is a gentleman and a pleasure to work with.
I have been ordering from him for a couple of years now, and have ordered dozens of ties.
He is always super friendly, patient, and his ties are beautiful.

hobers.jpg
Two questions: 1) The grey gingham tie, 2nd from the left, what tie is that? and 2) The silver and cream ties in the middle of the picture, is the middle cream tie with the larger pattern Garza Grossa and the other two to each side Garza Fina? Many Thanks
 

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