blackdice
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So as I promised in another thread, here is a quick overview of the article from Men's EX June / July 2011 issues. It features a wide range of relatively unknown tailors and other artisans in Napoli.
If you are interested in pictures and more details, feel free to pm me or leave a comment on my blog.
It starts with an interview with Antonio Panico and his son Alberto, who has made a decision to succeed his father's business lately; it then argues how the entire tailoring industry in Napoli is challenging, especially with the sudden upsurge in the demand from Russia, etc. At the same time, there is a wave of the new generation artisans, who are taking a slightly different, and modern approach than their predecessors.
It then introduces a mix of wellknown / unknown artisans in the city.
1. Luciano Lombardi
Known as a traditional camiceria, they are now expanding into the suit tailoring business with a strong focus on unstructured 'shirt jackets'.
2. Ulturare
A new tie maker exploring different / new design details including ties with a metal charm, 12 pieghe, etc.
3. Mola
One of the most wellknown and oldest trousers makers in Napoli. They are particularly famous for 'forma esse', that fits extremely well with the organic shape of the wear's legs. They do offer a limited RTW products, as well as some MTM service via some retailers (mostly in Japan). Incidentally, they make all my trousers that I order from Napoli and I'll upload an in-depth review of its construction shortly.
3. Salvatore Piccolo
One of the most successful "new generation" camicerias in Napoli. He takes a very creative approach to his fabric selection and details, that allows him to offer a wider range of products - including chambray shirts made in a fabric made in Okayama, Japan, and checked shirts with American details. He started working as a shirt maker 16 years ago, when he was merely 17 years old and now has 20 artisans working for his camiceria.
4. Various suppliers
It then introduces a couple of suppliers who provide buttons, threads, to the local tailors:
Longobaldi Marcella: one of the largest suppliers in Napoli - offers everything from threads to shoulder pads
Tramontano: button specialist - unfortunately closing their business shortly
Consiglio: Fabric specialist with extensive selection of vintage linens - I am personally visiting them with my tailor next time I am in town
5. Sartoria Vincenzo Daddio
Yet another local tailor - not sure about what their specialty / unique selling point is. Hard to tell from the article.
Then the July issue starts with an introduction of Errico Formicola, one of the protagonists who pushed the Neapolitan sartorial scene to where it is now, along with the likes of Rubinacci, Attolini, etc.
6. Alfuredo Rifugio
Leather specialist who recently developed a new technique to treat leather in a similar way as one does cloths, which allowed them to make perfectly tailored leather jackets. It has gained big popularity in the Russian market and apparently local customers are going nuts for a £20,000 croco jacket, etc.
7. Max Ci
Another tailor who has a particular focus on catering to the needs of bigger clients - particularly from Russia. They also accommodate a wide range of different (i.e. non Neapolitan) styles than other sartoria.
8. Antonio Petrosino
Antonio, still at 30 years old, is one of the youngest tailors who won the prestigious Forbici D'Oro last year. He servers a younger client base ranging from 30's to 50's. Incidentally, he is my tailor and those who are interested in his work, please pm me.
9. Mario Talarico
Umbrella maker who has +40 years' experience
On a side note, Men's EX digital edition is now available from the Japanese iTunes store - so those who are paying premium on the paper edition may wish to consider it.
If you are interested in pictures and more details, feel free to pm me or leave a comment on my blog.
It starts with an interview with Antonio Panico and his son Alberto, who has made a decision to succeed his father's business lately; it then argues how the entire tailoring industry in Napoli is challenging, especially with the sudden upsurge in the demand from Russia, etc. At the same time, there is a wave of the new generation artisans, who are taking a slightly different, and modern approach than their predecessors.
It then introduces a mix of wellknown / unknown artisans in the city.
1. Luciano Lombardi
Known as a traditional camiceria, they are now expanding into the suit tailoring business with a strong focus on unstructured 'shirt jackets'.
2. Ulturare
A new tie maker exploring different / new design details including ties with a metal charm, 12 pieghe, etc.
3. Mola
One of the most wellknown and oldest trousers makers in Napoli. They are particularly famous for 'forma esse', that fits extremely well with the organic shape of the wear's legs. They do offer a limited RTW products, as well as some MTM service via some retailers (mostly in Japan). Incidentally, they make all my trousers that I order from Napoli and I'll upload an in-depth review of its construction shortly.
3. Salvatore Piccolo
One of the most successful "new generation" camicerias in Napoli. He takes a very creative approach to his fabric selection and details, that allows him to offer a wider range of products - including chambray shirts made in a fabric made in Okayama, Japan, and checked shirts with American details. He started working as a shirt maker 16 years ago, when he was merely 17 years old and now has 20 artisans working for his camiceria.
4. Various suppliers
It then introduces a couple of suppliers who provide buttons, threads, to the local tailors:
Longobaldi Marcella: one of the largest suppliers in Napoli - offers everything from threads to shoulder pads
Tramontano: button specialist - unfortunately closing their business shortly
Consiglio: Fabric specialist with extensive selection of vintage linens - I am personally visiting them with my tailor next time I am in town
5. Sartoria Vincenzo Daddio
Yet another local tailor - not sure about what their specialty / unique selling point is. Hard to tell from the article.
Then the July issue starts with an introduction of Errico Formicola, one of the protagonists who pushed the Neapolitan sartorial scene to where it is now, along with the likes of Rubinacci, Attolini, etc.
6. Alfuredo Rifugio
Leather specialist who recently developed a new technique to treat leather in a similar way as one does cloths, which allowed them to make perfectly tailored leather jackets. It has gained big popularity in the Russian market and apparently local customers are going nuts for a £20,000 croco jacket, etc.
7. Max Ci
Another tailor who has a particular focus on catering to the needs of bigger clients - particularly from Russia. They also accommodate a wide range of different (i.e. non Neapolitan) styles than other sartoria.
8. Antonio Petrosino
Antonio, still at 30 years old, is one of the youngest tailors who won the prestigious Forbici D'Oro last year. He servers a younger client base ranging from 30's to 50's. Incidentally, he is my tailor and those who are interested in his work, please pm me.
9. Mario Talarico
Umbrella maker who has +40 years' experience
On a side note, Men's EX digital edition is now available from the Japanese iTunes store - so those who are paying premium on the paper edition may wish to consider it.
