Enzo Custom Fabrics

[RTC16]

Is there a particular reason you're going MTM rather than RTW? What city are you based in?

Personally, I'd be very warry of no-name in-house fabrics, they are almost certainly below the quality of name brands (Harrisons group, VBC/Drapers, Loro Piana, HFW, etc.). One of my major complaints about Enzo was the numerous and significant price jumps just to get into decent cloth.

Strongly agree with all of @gimpwiz 's points above, stay below S120, shoot for a name brand mill (VBC perennial classics are good), get something between 250-350g weight wise. That should be doable for $1-1.5K from a good MTM place.

If you're not a tough fit and dont plan on using the suit that often, I'd also check out Suit Supply and Spier and Mackay's MTO programs, both should come in well under $1K, leaving you a chunk of change for alterations. I'd order 2 sizes of their OTR stuff, figure out which one works for you best and then pick out your cloth and styling details

Assuming RTW = ready to wear, I’m not opposed. But I did spend some time at Nordstrom near me in Charlotte where they had Hugo Boss and Ted Baker for $895, and I feel like I could do way better at that price point. I’m going to take a look at SuitSupply and keep an eye on Spier and Mackay as they’re out of 38R for the color I want. Thank you.

 

[stuffedsuperdud]

Ironically it would be Brad as I’m located in Charlotte. The tailor I’ve been referring to in this thread is Walid at Myers Park tailors, who came recommended by several people and has done a lot of suits for Charlotte’s pro athletes. Not sure if you’ve had any interactions with him in the past and can speak to the differences between him and Enzo.

As for your experiences, for a year-round navy suit at Enzo, which will probably be worn mostly for weddings, interviews, formal work meetings, etc, is there a particular material that you think would best suit my needs and keep me within budget? I appreciate your help.

My buddy's is standard navy 9oz/10oz ish fabric with a twill weave that allows the jacket to be worn as a blazer in a pinch, so if they have that, I'd suggest starting there. Their no-brand books change all the time and I don't know if they have the stuff from six years ago, so the best thing to do is to just make your appointment with Brad and he'll get you set up. There's no obligation to buy, and he's not pushy, so don't worry about accidental buyer's remorse. Brad has a good eye and his measurements are bang on, so it's not super necessary, but if you have one, I'd suggest bringing a suit that fits you well for his reference.

 

[breakaway01]

Assuming RTW = ready to wear, I’m not opposed. But I did spend some time at Nordstrom near me in Charlotte where they had Hugo Boss and Ted Baker for $895, and I feel like I could do way better at that price point. I’m going to take a look at SuitSupply and keep an eye on Spier and Mackay as they’re out of 38R for the color I want. Thank you.

I think SuitSupply is good as long as you don't let the sales associates squeeze you into a suit one or even two sizes too small. If you know you are a 38R, stick to your guns and don't let them put you in a 36R (or 36S, god forbid). Trousers can run a little slim but I think you can mix and match jacket and trouser sizes for some of their suits.

 

[BlueSteel]

A lot of inaccuracies and half-truths here. Whether you should buy your fabric from your tailor or yourself depends on the mill. Tailors can often purchase fabric at trade prices for much less than you can at retail. Fox Brothers fabric is a well known example of this.

Also don't recommend 100% cashmere for tailoring for most people, and definitely not as a suit fabric. Far too fragile for trousers.

The mills you listed as "fancy" make excellent cloths. It is not all about profit for the tailor.

Exactly this.

Why would I buy my own Fox fabric, when the tailor could buy for a significant discount off my price? (And then if the tailor keeps the spread as his markup, fair play...I'm not getting hosed at all.)

 

[RTC16]

Following up on the outcome of this, with a bit of a potential concern. I decided to go with the tailor since I really liked the fit of my tuxedo and would be happy with an equivalent suit. I went in for an appointment at the end of June and hadn’t heard from him yet despite being told 2-3 weeks. I received a call from him today that confused me, and I’ll do my best to explain.

The email I sent him yesterday was a reply off the old chain where we had discussed picking up my tuxedo, so he calls me saying my tuxedo is ready. I correct him and say I’m expecting a navy blue suit and the tuxedo subject line was from my previous purchase. After explaining to him what we discussed at my appointment, he says yes he has my suit, except he said it’s a 40R. The tuxedo I bought from him, which I brought in as a reference and he was going to mirror, was a 38R. He didn’t even remeasure me since the 38R fit perfectly. When I asked about the 40R vs 38R, he mentioned something about the fabric and fit of the suit vs the tuxedo. It seemed a bit strange to me as the brand is the same for both the tuxedo and suit, so I’m not sure why there would be a size difference.

So, my question prior to going to try this suit on, is could there be any legitimate reason for the 38R to 40R size difference between the tuxedo and the suit? Or does it sound like he messed up and is trying to push what he has on me? I’m a newbie, so what should I look for in the fit of the jacket when I go to try this on?

I have an email out to him to hopefully clarify before I go in, since I have a newborn at home and my time is extremely limited. Would be disappointed to show up to something different than what we discussed, but luckily I haven’t paid anything yet.

Thank you for the help!

 

[classicalthunde]

Following up on the outcome of this, with a bit of a potential concern. I decided to go with the tailor since I really liked the fit of my tuxedo and would be happy with an equivalent suit. I went in for an appointment at the end of June and hadn’t heard from him yet despite being told 2-3 weeks. I received a call from him today that confused me, and I’ll do my best to explain.

The email I sent him yesterday was a reply off the old chain where we had discussed picking up my tuxedo, so he calls me saying my tuxedo is ready. I correct him and say I’m expecting a navy blue suit and the tuxedo subject line was from my previous purchase. After explaining to him what we discussed at my appointment, he says yes he has my suit, except he said it’s a 40R. The tuxedo I bought from him, which I brought in as a reference and he was going to mirror, was a 38R. He didn’t even remeasure me since the 38R fit perfectly. When I asked about the 40R vs 38R, he mentioned something about the fabric and fit of the suit vs the tuxedo. It seemed a bit strange to me as the brand is the same for both the tuxedo and suit, so I’m not sure why there would be a size difference.

So, my question prior to going to try this suit on, is could there be any legitimate reason for the 38R to 40R size difference between the tuxedo and the suit? Or does it sound like he messed up and is trying to push what he has on me? I’m a newbie, so what should I look for in the fit of the jacket when I go to try this on?

I have an email out to him to hopefully clarify before I go in, since I have a newborn at home and my time is extremely limited. Would be disappointed to show up to something different than what we discussed, but luckily I haven’t paid anything yet.

Thank you for the help!

Not familiar with the brand or its specifics but some brands have different models which are trimmer and some which are roomier. However, if you brought in the tux as a reference I would imagine they would have/should have used the same model for your navy suit, which would mean the same sizing.

If this is a made-to-order (MTO) item or a ready-to-wear (RTW) item, then there should be some sort of white tag in one of the inner pockets that would have something akin to a model number or name. Check to make sure that this is the same for the

Fabric should not impact the sizing of the garment at all, a 40R in tweed is a 40R in linen is a 40R in wool.

Try it on and see if it fits similarly, if it doesn't and its a different size then you ordered or used as a the reference model then I would be pretty firm that its not the product you ordered and ask them to make it right before you pay. It kind of sounds harsh, but if its not the product you ordered and you haven't paid yet you can always walk away.

The most telling sign when you try it on will be the shoulders. All things being equal (like padding, shoulder style), if they are noticeably bigger then its a different size. Shoulders and jacket length are two of the main things that cannot/should not really be altered...