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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 5172post #77566 of 787195/9/14 at 5:22pm
Styleforum Top Pickspost #77567 of 787195/9/14 at 5:42pmpost #77568 of 787195/9/14 at 5:46pmQuote:Originally Posted by Isolation
Re the thumbs thng: I don't get thumbs, which is fine I'm new to trying to dress well, but I don't get feedback either so it makes posting outfits pointless for me. I'd join in commenting on stuff, as perhaps people don't feel like engaging with someone who has little input to the community, but I doubt I have much useful to say so I can't really. I feel like I could take criticism but so far I've barely gotten any either, so, that's my experience with this thread.
Quote:Originally Posted by ianGP
@Isolation When I first started, I came across the same hurdle but I just solicited feedback.
Have you tried the noodles thread?
Yup, just mention you want feedback and people will be happy to give it.
I don't argue; I discourse.post #77569 of 787195/9/14 at 5:53pmpost #77570 of 787195/9/14 at 6:10pmpost #77571 of 787195/9/14 at 6:12pmQuote:Originally Posted by luv2breformed
This brings me to another point that I'd like to think aloud about. There are a metric ton of "rules" in menswear in general and SF in particular. I view "no discordance" as simply another one in these long list of rules. Some of the rules are easier to break successfully and some are harder to break well. That said I think every poster breaks them, and many fairly regularly.
One example is that socks should match pants (or be fairly close). pB and Ac have both vouched recently for this "rule".
In my experience, those who are most consistently successful in departing from a “rule” (I prefer “principle” but that’s a different discussion) are usually those who recognize the origins of and reasons behind the rule. You mention the traditional principle of matching socks to trousers. As I’m sure you know, one of the reasons for this is that (other factors being equal) it “extends the line of the leg” (to the use the traditional tailoring language), potentially making the wearer look taller; to put the point conversely, not matching the socks to the trousers breaks the line and can visually have a foreshortening effect. Once that’s understood the wearer is in a position to make an intelligent decision in keeping with his goals. Extending the line might not be a priority for some.
Similarly, jacket buttoning points and gorge positioning are details which change with fashion, but the variability of which one is often better off using to one’s advantage and fashion be damned (within reason, of course). Lowering the buttoning point has the effect of deepening the “V” of the lapel, bringing it closer to the vertical and thus making the wearer look slimmer. It’s something to consider if one wants to look slimmer. If, like me, one want to look wider, one should consider raising it a bit. Raising the gorge is like lowering the buttoning point: it can have a slenderizing effect. Similarly for lapel width, and I’ve already gotten off my chest what I wanted to say about the difficulties of determining optimum jacket length some time ago in this thread. Historically we live in a difficult time. Elementary principles like these were learned by experience by tailors who were employed to make custom clothing, but just about everyone wears off-the-rack stuff these days. So as a culture we’re left with distorted memories of the principles but we’ve forgotten the reasons for them (I’m talking about the culture at large, not the educated population of SF, I hasten to add). So we get people in the outside world arguing about, e.g., the proper one-size-fits all buttoning point, and we get designers convincing people that they need to replace their wardrobe every year so it stays up-to-date.
Learning to dress the body one has and not the one one wishes one had can be painful experience, but it’s part of the process of becoming an adult. And it can be liberating once one accepts it. I’ve learned to appreciate many things I’d be a fool to wear myself, for which I’m deeply grateful.
Your mileage …
Acpost #77572 of 787195/9/14 at 6:39pmQuote:Originally Posted by Isolation
Don't really like this outfit but since I'm a newbie I might as well post for advice.
I don't think the PS works. Should I go for something to pair with the tie, or the shirt? Or just ditch it entirely? Feel like either could be okay.
I think the shoes matching in tone is bad too, but I feel like tan isn't great because it'd steal too much from the suit. Maybe just something slightly lighter like mahogany? I don't have any brown suede yet (actually ordered a pair), perhaps that would go well?
Is the fit of the suit notably poor? I didn't notice it as much before but the pulling at the waist seems really pronounced in these pictures. I might be reading too much into it because people in the hk bespoke thread didn't like the jacket, but idk.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Ok, since you asked for feedback.
The suit is decent fitting, not great, but passable. There is a type of pulling at the chest that suggests the buttoning point might be slightly high. Your pants seem a bit long. Cream and brown don't work very well with your complexion I'm afraid. It's either that or the lighting in the room where this pic is taken is horrible, because it makes you look kinda pasty. The lapels could be wider. The tie is too pale for this ensemble, which, together with the other elements of the fit, makes the colour scheme seem washed out.
I think you'd look good in colder colours, i.e. blue, grey etc. Or if you do brown suit, you cold try to break it off with light blue shirt and maybe a navy tie. You also look like you have a sense of flair. If that's the case, look to @Tirailleur1, @barims, @TTO, @LabelKing and other people with original dress styles for inspiration.post #77573 of 787195/9/14 at 6:53pmAgreed. The warm brown isn't working here. Also given your head size and apparent height, I'd look for jackets with wider lapels. The shirt color is an excellent match with the jacket, but the tie is very discordant with everything else.post #77574 of 787195/9/14 at 7:13pmQuote:
Thanks, Ac, it's from Conrad Wu, rep shantung.Quote:Originally Posted by ianGP
@Betelgeuse My Dood! That jacket needs to be worn more!
I will. I just need to fit it into my rotation for visiting clients.post #77575 of 787195/9/14 at 7:17pmpost #77576 of 787195/9/14 at 7:37pmpost #77577 of 787195/9/14 at 7:43pmpost #77578 of 787195/9/14 at 7:45pmpost #77579 of 787195/9/14 at 7:58pmQuote:Originally Posted by luv2breformed
If you notice he gets thumbs when he does it and you don't get thumbs when you do it then I will leave it to you to figure out why. ....
....So you've mastered breaking the socks matching rule, but haven't seemed to master breaking the "discordance" rule yet (at least according to thumbs up standards). Is this anybody's fault? Is this unfair? (Not criticizing you, just thinking out loud here.)
But I want to break the discordance rule AND get thumbs like Spoo one might say. All I have to say is do it then. ....
Breaking important rules takes the skill and eye to do it by yourself.
I do apologize if my post came off as despondent or even challenging. That wasn't my intent at all. It was rooted in a genuine intellectual endeavor. I am trying to "do it" in your parlance. But I don't want to flail around like a blind squirrel, getting a nut only on some stochastically whimsical basis. Like we all do, I want to succeed. So I'm trying to understand why some rule breaking fits work and why some don't.
I guess, with no shortage of irony, I'm trying to distil the principles behind rule breaking -- assuming such a Philosopher's Stone isn't merely so much alchemy.
When mood suits me, I will post rule abiding fits, and when it does not I won't. I will get thumbs or I won't. And of course the cosmic dance will go on (to paraphrase one of my all time favorite TV lines). Just as will my fascination and frustration with this form of personal obsessionexpression we call a hobby.post #77580 of 787195/9/14 at 8:00pm
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