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HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part III - Page 5172  

post #77566 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMMcL View Post Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

This fit is really well done. Can someone tell me what I am missing or it's all due to the contrast collar (those are bad but)? #genuinelyconfused
Quote:
Originally Posted by 9thsymph View Post

It just seems like a lot of great pieces fighting each other rather than harmonizing (I mean, five patterns and at least as many colors...what could possibly go wrong?).
A Solid tie, solid socks, and darkly grounded square might perhaps work better with the boldness in pattern and color of the SC and shirt?
Quote:
Originally Posted by kulata View Post

If that shirt didn't have a contrast collar and let's just ignore the fun socks, I would consider it a decent and bold 4 pattern fit. I've seen much worse in old threads from respected old members and they seem to get praise. Oh well...

I appreciate all the feedback, compliments and thumbs. I recognized the fit wouldn't be for everyone. Could I have done a solid navy gren tie, pale blue shirt, and navy socks? Sure. But what will I have learned? Moreover, as I mentioned in the post, I'm in a mood lately where I want to get a bit more bold and push my boundaries, having done a lot of "less" fits over the winter. That will almost necessarily translate to less universal appeal, and I'm OK with that. Constructive feedback as to what worked and didn't will still be helpful, which is why I post (some) of my less StyFo approved fits.

I don't usually go in for defending fits, nor will I here. If it worked it worked and if it didn't it didn't. Again, I'm aware there were elements I could have changed and toned down to give it more universal appeal. To the extent I chose not to, I need to also be OK with the outcome.

The difficulty from a learning and growth perspective is that evaluation here isn't universal. Some members do 4 patterns (neat on stripe under check with bold square) and get high praise, others do similar fits and get busted. Same with loud ties. Striped shirts. Etc. (Footnote: I believe this is what the whole DTO/Phat Guido thing was really about, btw). Yes, it's all in execution, of course, and rightly so. But it's definitely true that some posters are given a pass as a rule, and others judged harshly as a rule.

This is neither new nor should it be surprising; it's been observed many times before. There can be any number of reasons, some legit others BS -- fit might be off, or the poster usually posts more universally appealing fits (and thus prove that the variance is intentional), in some cases it's because they've committed to a particular idiom, time and again, and that gradually gains acceptance (or at least respect for the commitment), and in other cases it has to do with photography and/or photogeneticism/body type (yes, slim guys do a LOT better here as a rule -- Compare the number of regular 20+ posters who are a size 40 or under versus 42 or above; there's no contest). I think you all have helped me dial in fit much better, but many of the rest remain strikes against me -- I'm not slim (though I'm trying), I have no desire to commit to a specific idiom (how boring), and I am, on average, generally less inclined toward the "less" camp than the "more" camp (though I think I've demonstrated I can do "less" when I want to).

This is neither a critique nor a complaint. Merely an observation that it makes it much harder to use this thread as a legit learning tool.
Quote:
Originally Posted by An Acute Style View Post

@GMMcL
Love the fit today. I think a different square would have been better. Something in the blue/light blue family.
I appreciate that. I may try that next time. FWIW, I discounted blue for 2 reasons: 1. I didn't want to be too matchy with the shirt (light blue) or the tie (dark blue -- though I very nearly picked one out), and 2. I liked how this one pulled the yellow from the tie and tied it together with the brown in the SC, belt and shoes. But I respect that yellow is bold on those checks, and may have been discordant.

 

 

 

Great post!  I took on a diff perspective of you when you pulled out that awsm set of combos in the last FC-  u r a poster wo clearly knows what he's doing.   Sadly, I think u may be rite that there's a bias to slimmer looks.  

 

But having said that, there's quite a few posters here who I won't name obviously who are circumferentially-challenged and whose fits absolutely rok- .

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post
 

Arguing over inane details well beyond the point where anything productive could possibly come of it.

 

 

oh the irony.  :embar:  (I don't mean u in particular Clags)

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by in stitches View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

:slayer:  that is an awsm color for u IMO in stitches.  Oddly, I also think it's an awsm color for u SB.

 

 

 

 

 

Awsm chalk stripe C.  Shoes r not optimal.  Got something sleeker?

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 

Ah, thumbs …


 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

While thumbs are useful (discussion is better, of course), I think that when comparing one’s thumb-count with the thumb-count of someone else with a similar fit one ought not to be surprised to find the occasional difference in the numbers, often a quite substantial difference.  As others, including myself, have remarked in the past, this should surprise no one; in a social network like this there are far too many factors influencing an individual’s decision to give or withhold a thumb for the thumb-count to be an objective measure of the “success” or “failure” of a particular fit.  We all know this.

 

I’m revisiting this because over the past month or so I’ve gotten the impression that some people are stressing inordinately over their numbers (how they compare with others, what they can do to make to the “twenty plus thread,” and so forth), which I think is unfortunate.  This thread is a resource, not an oracle.   Kick back and enjoy the discussion, save the photos of anything you like (or think might be useful for purposes of blackmail in the future ...), and take it for what it is.

 

We’re just a bunch of people sharing information and opinions about dress.  This should be a source of pleasure, not of stress.

 

Some nice stuff today, by the way.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

 

nice post

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by eviltimeban View Post
 

Didn't someone get 40+ thumbs the other day?

 

 

Gdl for his bespoke SC IIRC

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Amar ezzahi View Post

Challenging Friday :
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




 

this is an AAS level color mashup, sorta thing someone who's say an Artist would wear IME.  (and excuse me if you are an artist,).   Looks great perhaps minus one or two color elements. IMO

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by CousinDonuts View Post

My gingham is shouting.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

I can't really tell what's going in this pic CD, but the best blazers r generally made of something coarser-   hopsack, Fresco etc.   Double stitching, swelled edges, patch pockets, contrast buttons and so on help make it look less odd jacket

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by DonCologne View Post
 

Bonus shot: Get this vintage 100% cotton trench from DAKS today

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

 

 

I had a WWII movie moment when i saw this DC

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by justinkapur View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
A8AFCFF9-9D21-4A5C-A421-01E32CC8E500_zps6wj4qivd.jpg


Maiden voyage for SC and shirt. I love the fit of the shirt

 

 

I love the fit except  for the shirt, which is out of place in this context IMO j-  plain coarse blue would be beautiful with this

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by GMMcL View Post
 
mood. Blame the fog and cool weather.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
photo 8ac87f70-e0f7-4ec2-8731-55b0db518449_zpsff25d99c.jpg
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
 

 

I love this cloth-  just got 2m in something almost identical from HC

 

 

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tirailleur1 View Post
 

What was the New York?


You won't allow me to wear my SeerSucker suit? 


fuc u den

 

 

Holla at me Lagos. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Pink wall-  where to kop?

 

(Hot damn on the fit BTW)

post #77567 of 78724
@Isolation When I first started, I came across the same hurdle but I just solicited feedback.

Have you tried the noodles thread?
post #77568 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Betelgeuse View Post
 

X-post from the challenge.

 


For some reason the "quote" option didn't grab the photo.  Bummer.

 

That's a really nice summery outfit.  May I ask for details about the tie?  Thanks.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #77569 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
 

 

[...]

 

nice post

 

[...]

 

Pink wall-  where to kop?[...]

 

Thanks.

 

Try Luxire.  If you send them the wall they'll copy it for you.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #77570 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMMcL View Post

So this is a good example. And I dutifully resisted singling out any particular posters, because I don't want to inadvertently offend those whose styles I deeply respect, which would include Spoo.
But this is a good example where I find it hard to square the advice I get with the reference I observe. Look at those stripes. Both thin/very city in a casual fit AND multi colored/"fun" (of the type that's not supposed to get love here). Then there is the formality of the small dots. Yes, I get that the texture works well with the jacket, but as an overall element it seems to be at odds with the informality of the rest of the fit. Add the silk of the square and what seems like a very fine weave shirt, and the fit seems to be occupying numerous spaces on the Great Vox Continuum. So I struggle to understand how it works. I'll grant you that it does, on some level. But why to the level of reverence? Or, said differently, how to distinguish the successful discordance here with my unsuccessful discordance yesterday?
 

 

Just want to be clear, although I am pretty sure you knew what I was trying to do. I was not using that picture as an example to emulate, rather I was simply pointing out the type of jacket that would be better for CousinDonuts. I have in no way shape or form recommended Spoo's fit here. Spoo's perceived discordance is entirely irrelevant to my point.

 

If you notice he gets thumbs when he does it and you don't get thumbs when you do it then I will leave it to you to figure out why. I still think my points are valid and I think overall that most posters should be more interested in nailing down the basics than experimenting with discordance and complexity.

 

This brings me to another point that I'd like to think aloud about. There are a metric ton of "rules" in menswear in general and SF in particular. I view "no discordance" as simply another one in these long list of rules. Some of the rules are easier to break successfully and some are harder to break well. That said I think every poster breaks them, and many fairly regularly.

One example is that socks should match pants (or be fairly close). pB and Ac have both vouched recently for this "rule". Just because it is accepted SF practice to break this rule doesn't make it any less of a rule. I am sure you have broken this rule "successfully" before G and received many thumbs despite doing so. So you've mastered breaking the socks matching rule, but haven't seemed to master breaking the "discordance" rule yet (at least according to thumbs up standards). Is this anybody's fault? Is this unfair? (Not criticizing you, just thinking out loud here.)

 

But I want to break the discordance rule AND get thumbs like Spoo one might say. All I have to say is do it then. Seriously, if you want to break such an established rule then you've got to blaze that trail yourself. If you post a discordant fit and get no love any hope for guidance is going to be attempts to get you back to being harmonious. Rule breaking is serious business, and if you want somebody to explain to you how to do it well then I surmise that you may not have what it takes to break that particular rule well. Come back and try again later. (Again, just thinking aloud, not aimed at you, G).

 

Breaking important rules takes the skill and eye to do it by yourself.

post #77571 of 78724
@Betelgeuse My Dood! That jacket needs to be worn more! nod[1].gif
post #77572 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by GMMcL View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
photo IMG_7193_zps7d64d6a8.jpg

This ticket pocket reminds me of Lebron's little purse from a couple years back:

post #77573 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Re the thumbs thng: I don't get thumbs, which is fine I'm new to trying to dress well, but I don't get feedback either so it makes posting outfits pointless for me. I'd join in commenting on stuff, as perhaps people don't feel like engaging with someone who has little input to the community, but I doubt I have much useful to say so I can't really. I feel like I could take criticism but so far I've barely gotten any either, so, that's my experience with this thread.

  Quote:

Originally Posted by ianGP View Post

@Isolation When I first started, I came across the same hurdle but I just solicited feedback.

Have you tried the noodles thread?

Yup, just mention you want feedback and people will be happy to give it.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by Pliny View Post
 

oh the irony.  :embar:  (I don't mean u in particular Clags)

 

 

I don't argue; I discourse.

post #77574 of 78724

Hello Gents. 2nd pic is best representation of the SC color.

 

post #77575 of 78724
@Pliny thanks for the feed-back! I'd say you are right to some points: reducing the PS and trying to find pants in the same color as the jacket (a solaro beige suit par exemple).
post #77576 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by luv2breformed View Post
 

[...]

 

This brings me to another point that I'd like to think aloud about. There are a metric ton of "rules" in menswear in general and SF in particular. I view "no discordance" as simply another one in these long list of rules. Some of the rules are easier to break successfully and some are harder to break well. That said I think every poster breaks them, and many fairly regularly.

One example is that socks should match pants (or be fairly close). pB and Ac have both vouched recently for this "rule".

 

[...]

 

 

 

In my experience, those who are most consistently successful in departing from a “rule” (I prefer “principle” but that’s a different discussion) are usually those who recognize the origins of and reasons behind the rule.  You mention the traditional principle of matching socks to trousers.  As I’m sure you know, one of the reasons for this is that (other factors being equal) it “extends the line of the leg” (to the use the traditional tailoring language), potentially making the wearer look taller; to put the point conversely, not matching the socks to the trousers breaks the line and can visually have a foreshortening effect.  Once that’s understood the wearer is in a position to make an intelligent decision in keeping with his goals.  Extending the line might not be a priority for some.

 

Similarly, jacket buttoning points and gorge positioning are details which change with fashion, but the variability of which one is often better off using to one’s advantage and fashion be damned (within reason, of course).  Lowering the buttoning point has the effect of deepening the “V” of the lapel, bringing it closer to the vertical and thus making the wearer look slimmer.  It’s something to consider if one wants to look slimmer.  If, like me, one want to look wider, one should consider raising it a bit.  Raising the gorge is like lowering the buttoning point:  it can have a slenderizing effect.  Similarly for lapel width, and I’ve already gotten off my chest what I wanted to say about the difficulties of determining optimum jacket length some time ago in this thread.  Historically we live in a difficult time.  Elementary principles like these were learned by experience by tailors who were employed to make custom clothing, but just about everyone wears off-the-rack stuff these days.  So as a culture we’re left with distorted memories of the principles but we’ve forgotten the reasons for them (I’m talking about the culture at large, not the educated population of SF, I hasten to add).  So we get people in the outside world arguing about, e.g., the proper one-size-fits all buttoning point, and we get designers convincing people that they need to replace their wardrobe every year so it stays up-to-date.

 

Learning to dress the body one has and not the one one wishes one had can be painful experience, but it’s part of the process of becoming an adult.  And it can be liberating once one accepts it.   I’ve learned to appreciate many things I’d be a fool to wear myself, for which I’m deeply grateful.

 

Your mileage …

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

post #77577 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post

Don't really like this outfit but since I'm a newbie I might as well post for advice.

I don't think the PS works. Should I go for something to pair with the tie, or the shirt? Or just ditch it entirely? Feel like either could be okay.

I think the shoes matching in tone is bad too, but I feel like tan isn't great because it'd steal too much from the suit. Maybe just something slightly lighter like mahogany? I don't have any brown suede yet (actually ordered a pair), perhaps that would go well?

Is the fit of the suit notably poor? I didn't notice it as much before but the pulling at the waist seems really pronounced in these pictures. I might be reading too much into it because people in the hk bespoke thread didn't like the jacket, but idk.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)





Ok, since you asked for feedback.

The suit is decent fitting, not great, but passable. There is a type of pulling at the chest that suggests the buttoning point might be slightly high. Your pants seem a bit long. Cream and brown don't work very well with your complexion I'm afraid. It's either that or the lighting in the room where this pic is taken is horrible, because it makes you look kinda pasty. The lapels could be wider. The tie is too pale for this ensemble, which, together with the other elements of the fit, makes the colour scheme seem washed out.

I think you'd look good in colder colours, i.e. blue, grey etc. Or if you do brown suit, you cold try to break it off with light blue shirt and maybe a navy tie. You also look like you have a sense of flair. If that's the case, look to @Tirailleur1, @barims, @TTO, @LabelKing and other people with original dress styles for inspiration.
post #77578 of 78724
Agreed. The warm brown isn't working here. Also given your head size and apparent height, I'd look for jackets with wider lapels. The shirt color is an excellent match with the jacket, but the tie is very discordant with everything else.
post #77579 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Academic2 View Post
 


For some reason the "quote" option didn't grab the photo.  Bummer.

 

That's a really nice summery outfit.  May I ask for details about the tie?  Thanks.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

 

Thanks, Ac, it's from Conrad Wu, rep shantung. :nodding:

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ianGP View Post

@Betelgeuse My Dood! That jacket needs to be worn more! nod[1].gif

 

I will. I just need to fit it into my rotation for visiting clients. :lol: 

post #77580 of 78724
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

[...] given your head size and apparent height, I'd look for jackets with wider lapels. [...]

 

Spot on.

 

Cheers,

 

Ac

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