***Official Franco Ercoles Bespoke Thread (Brooklyn/Manhattan)***

[Eustace Tilley]

I went to Ercoles this afternoon to have some pants taken in and decided to finally have a suit made. I explained to frank that I wanted to have a navy suit made where the jacket could also be used as a blazer. Basically a blazersuit. I looked at a few books but diidnt decide on the fabric. Frank was going to pull some things that where in my budget and show me when I go back for my pants. I am looking for something I can wear year round but now very little about fabrics. Any tips or suggestions when I go back?

Look at any decent 11oz.-12oz. book. Lesser's 11oz. book and Smith's Blue Riband are good starting points. I'm also a big fan of Dugdales' Royal Classics collection (which'll also be cheaper than Lesser / Smith.)

 

[F. Corbera]

If you want a navy suit jacket that can stand in for a blazer, look at a heavy plain weave, like the 14/15oz fresco in H&S Crispaire (actually made for H&S by Huddersfield/Minnis, I think.)

IMHO, for a navy suit jacket to pass as a odd jacket, it needs either the hopsack-y texture of the above or you need to rusticate it with details like patch pockets and so on.

 

[TheTukker]



Look at any decent 11oz.-12oz. book. Lesser's 11oz. book and Smith's Blue Riband are good starting points. I'm also a big fan of Dugdales' Royal Classics collection (which'll also be cheaper than Lesser / Smith.)

If you want a navy suit jacket that can stand in for a blazer, look at a heavy plain weave, like the 14/15oz fresco in H&S Crispaire (actually made for H&S by Huddersfield/Minnis, I think.)
IMHO, for a navy suit jacket to pass as a odd jacket, it needs either the hopsack-y texture of the above or you need to rusticate it with details like patch pockets and so on.

Wow - two answers like that within the hour and they still say the quality of SF has been going down the drain.

 

[brooklyn]



Look at any decent 11oz.-12oz. book. Lesser's 11oz. book and Smith's Blue Riband are good starting points. I'm also a big fan of Dugdales' Royal Classics collection (which'll also be cheaper than Lesser / Smith.)

Thanks for the response and will be sure to keep this in mind when I go back

 

[brooklyn]



If you want a navy suit jacket that can stand in for a blazer, look at a heavy plain weave, like the 14/15oz fresco in H&S Crispaire (actually made for H&S by Huddersfield/Minnis, I think.)
IMHO, for a navy suit jacket to pass as a odd jacket, it needs either the hopsack-y texture of the above or you need to rusticate it with details like patch pockets and so on.

I agree with you about having a texture similar to hopsack but I am not sure how the pants would look. I considered patch pockets but I think it would make the suit to casual for work. They had a similar jacket in the window and when I asked frank about what they used he pulled out the Scabal book which was way out of my price range. Since this will be my first suit from them I don't want to break the bank.

 

[NewYorkIslander]



I agree with you about having a texture similar to hopsack but I am not sure how the pants would look. I considered patch pockets but I think it would make the suit to casual for work. They had a similar jacket in the window and when I asked frank about what they used he pulled out the Scabal book which was way out of my price range. Since this will be my first suit from them I don't want to break the bank.

If you can, save for the better fabric. To me it doesn't pay to save a couple of hundred bucks on fabric when you spend upwards of 1.5K on a suit. It'll be worth it in the long run as well. As long as he's not showing you the $5000 suit books. I'm pretty sure you'll be able to find a good fabric that won't kill you. Even if you order through minnis direct for a good fresco/flannel it will cost around $500 for a suit length, but I know Frank's upcharge on fabric is very low, and offsets the cost or need to go get fabric on your own. As a tailor he generally can get better prices buying fabrics wholesale than folks like us going the retail route. Good luck!

 

[Eustace Tilley]

it doesn't pay to save a couple of hundred bucks on fabric when you spend upwards of 1.5K on a suit. It'll be worth it in the long run

+1

 

[gopherblue]

Blazersuit question:

I am in the final stages of completing a Minnis Fresco RAF blue blazersuit with Ercoles. I am getting brown horn buttons on the coat. Question: should I also get brown horn buttons on the rear trouser pockets and the button fly of the trousers (there are currently dark blue/black buttons I think)?

Second question for Ercole vets: when getting a side-vented jacket, has Frank sewn in a "belt" between the two sides, running underneath the rear flap of the vent?

Thanks
Goph

 

[forex]

I didn't specify the buttons on pants so they are either blue or black. Coat buttons are brown horn and yes on the stitching on side vents, it is just decorative.

 

[NewYorkIslander]

I don't ask for the belt between the two vents...and I usually have my trouser buttons match the buttons on the jacket.

 

[NewYorkIslander]

Also think its about time the thread title was changed...

 

[emc894]

I tried Chan for two suits and spent about $1,500-1,700 on each, and am not thrilled with them. I think not having multiple fittings really hurt the end product. I'm going to try Ercoles for a herringbone tweed jacket and if that works out probably buy a grey flannel suit.

 

[gopherblue]



I don't ask for the belt between the two vents...and I usually have my trouser buttons match the buttons on the jacket.

I think the back pocket buttons should definitely match the coat buttons, no? But what about the fly? I have a button fly--even though there is a fabric fly front covering them, would brown horn buttons stand out too much there (i.e, be a distraction or look affected)?

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Can't get in to a fitting on my next suit. Too busy.

 

[Axelman 17]



I think the back pocket buttons should definitely match the coat buttons, no? But what about the fly? I have a button fly--even though there is a fabric fly front covering them, would brown horn buttons stand out too much there (i.e, be a distraction or look affected)?

I would get all the buttons the same color, I cant envision a situation that would call for a different approach. I will also say that unless you expect a lot of people to be staring at your crotch, I think you are over thinking this one.