Bespoke Shirt Fit - Restrictive Movement

[americanninja]

Google has brought me often to Styleforum when searching for suit and fashion related questions, so fairly familiar with the website, but this will be my first post. I'm hoping to find help and some answers to my questions regarding proper fit of a bespoke shirt and suit.

I have recently made a few shirts and suits from 2 different tailors and both have some out too tight and restrictive for my tastes, and I'm just trying to figure out is that how a suit should fit. For example, when I look at myself in the mirror, the suit does look great, but standing is about the only time it's comfortable. haha. The jacket is too restrictive and feels tight when sitting with the jacket on or doing everyday tasks, such as reaching for a book on a shelf, lifting my arm to hold the hanging handle on the subway, reaching to tie my shoe, or reaching down to wash my hands in the sink. I can't imagine you should feel uncomfortable and restricted in movement to do these simple everyday tasks, or should you?

I have had a lot of MTM suits made in the past, in Japan, and they feel just fine, albeit they are a bit bigger and less body fitting. However, they definitely don't look sloppy or like I'm wearing my older brother's shirt or suit.

The thing that bothers me the most is when the fabric pulls and cuts into my upper arm (the area between the top of my arm and my bicep). When raising my arms or extending them, this appears to happen on my well fitted shirts or suits. The tailor acts like it's normal, and I just can't understand it, because I have other shirts which are just as slim but they don't seem to do this. I have no idea what makes this happen, but if someone can tell me what I should instruct the tailor to change. That would be much appreciated.

The thing is, the most recent suit (the blue pin stripe I will show in the photos), looks the best fitting when I am standing in front of a mirror compared to my other suits. The tailor keeps telling me that if he lets out the back any more, to give me the non-restrictive movement I want, that it won't look good. So I guess what I am trying to figure out is, if I want a suit that looks fantastic in the mirror when I'm standing, then I need to deal with it being a bit uncomfortable in every other situation (i.e. sitting and moving around). If that's the case, then I will just settle with that and decide to just have the suits a bit bigger. I'm just trying to find the best combination of look and comfort. Right now, everytime I reach for something, I feel like I'm being constricted, and it's driving me nuts. I will post photos below. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

 

[starro]

These tailors are either lying through their teeth or have no idea what they're doing. Clothes should fit you in movement; a monkey could make something that only fits standing still.

I would have little confidence these tailors could fix to your satisfaction. Demand your money back and take your business to a competent establishment.

 

[starro]

.

 

[TOstyle]

Google has brought me often to Styleforum when searching for suit and fashion related questions, so fairly familiar with the website, but this will be my first post. I'm hoping to find help and some answers to my questions regarding proper fit of a bespoke shirt and suit.

I have recently made a few shirts and suits from 2 different tailors and both have some out too tight and restrictive for my tastes, and I'm just trying to figure out is that how a suit should fit. For example, when I look at myself in the mirror, the suit does look great, but standing is about the only time it's comfortable. haha. The jacket is too restrictive and feels tight when sitting with the jacket on or doing everyday tasks, such as reaching for a book on a shelf, lifting my arm to hold the hanging handle on the subway, reaching to tie my shoe, or reaching down to wash my hands in the sink. I can't imagine you should feel uncomfortable and restricted in movement to do these simple everyday tasks, or should you?

I have had a lot of MTM suits made in the past, in Japan, and they feel just fine, albeit they are a bit bigger and less body fitting. However, they definitely don't look sloppy or like I'm wearing my older brother's shirt or suit.

The thing that bothers me the most is when the fabric pulls and cuts into my upper arm (the area between the top of my arm and my bicep). When raising my arms or extending them, this appears to happen on my well fitted shirts or suits. The tailor acts like it's normal, and I just can't understand it, because I have other shirts which are just as slim but they don't seem to do this. I have no idea what makes this happen, but if someone can tell me what I should instruct the tailor to change. That would be much appreciated.

The thing is, the most recent suit (the blue pin stripe I will show in the photos), looks the best fitting when I am standing in front of a mirror compared to my other suits. The tailor keeps telling me that if he lets out the back any more, to give me the non-restrictive movement I want, that it won't look good. So I guess what I am trying to figure out is, if I want a suit that looks fantastic in the mirror when I'm standing, then I need to deal with it being a bit uncomfortable in every other situation (i.e. sitting and moving around). If that's the case, then I will just settle with that and decide to just have the suits a bit bigger. I'm just trying to find the best combination of look and comfort. Right now, everytime I reach for something, I feel like I'm being constricted, and it's driving me nuts. I will post photos below. Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

View attachment 791729

View attachment 791730

View attachment 791731

View attachment 791732

View attachment 791733

View attachment 791734

View attachment 791735

View attachment 791736

View attachment 791737

View attachment 791738

View attachment 791739

View attachment 791740

View attachment 791741

View attachment 791742

How long have you been wearing it? Give it a chance to "break in" of sorts. I found when I moved from the oversized OTR suits I was buying to a better fitted MTM option, I had to get used to things fitting tight. I now wear clothes tight enough that I can feel them on, and it does restrict range of movement, but honestly at this point I find it more comfortable - and going to larger sizes feels like I'm swimming in the suit.

 

[dfoverdx]

You should be comfortable in your suits when you move but keep in mind that there are many factors to consider. The jacket seems to fit ok. The length is short and opening is not my taste but anyway it doesn't seem too tight generally speaking.

If it's restricting you when you move then there may be two option; either making shoulders slightly extended and dropping so when you move your arms it will be comfortable. This require really good skills, tailor must be able to fit to perfection.

Second option is making the armhole higher, this will ease the movement of your arms and the suit will be as they say like a sweater. Personally i don't like this option because i tend to sweat a lot and with high armholes the area under arm is really touching the armpit so it gets quickly hot and wet.

 

[Andy57]

Find a new tailor.

In my opinion, the jacket is too short and cut too low in the armhole. If it is MTM, then the base pattern is perhaps too much like a ready-to-wear pattern and you're not going to be able to fix this problem with this jacket. I suspect it's the armhole cut that is causing all the problems you're seeing when moving your arms. You might also prefer a jacket that has a bit more drape, like an Anderson & Sheppard cut.

 

[daizawaguy]

I do understand what you are saying, but given the large amount of variables (armpit size, height, shape, angle etc.) I`m guessing the tailor cant nail the exact for for you, and hence his reluctance to do small alterations which may create a bad balance elsewhere. I think you just have to move on to another tailor. It does not look as bad as could be, though I do feel with your fit issues. Finding a tailor that understands your issues and can create a good fit takes time, and its no easy process. Agreed the jacket has some issues in the armhole, and is pulling in the wrong places. Thats really tricky to fix, as its governed by all those variables. Best of luck.

 

[americanninja]

Thanks for everyone's input thus far. It's really helpful to get different perspectives and advice. So the one tailor in particular has been very helpful and has been willing to change and alter to make sure I'm happy and content with the suit. So I'd really just like to get it fixed, as he does have hands down the best price and it's very convenient for me to re-order from him and have him ship to me in my home country. The problem is, he just can't seem to figure out what it is I want, and I'm no tailor, so I don't know what to tell him, to change.

So I figure someone here may be able to give me advice on what I should alter to get this jacket to where I want it. I actually like the way the jacket fits, it's tight, but not uncomfortable in the chest or waist and it contours to my body well. The main issue I have with it, is the restrictive feeling I get in the upper arms when I extend them out. I seem to do this movement enough throughout the day, that it bothers me. So I have highlighted this in the photos which I labeled as #1 and #2. Looking at the photos I have posted, what could I request the tailor to do to make this pulling around the front of the upper arm disappear? I.e. just take out the width of the upper arm by 1-2cm? Take out the upper back by 1-2cm? If someone could advise me on that, I would be very grateful.

The photo I marked up with #3, is not so much that it's uncomfortable, I just think it looks bad. I.e. when I'm sitting at a table and using my arms to take notes on a pad of paper, I imagine others would see this pulling in the side seams and think, this guy is wearing a suit that is too small. Am I being crazy, or am I right to not want this to look like this when I'm wearing the jacket. What alteration could I request the tailor to do, to make this issue disappear?

Thanks in advance! As I mentioned, this tailor has been very helpful and has offered to make fixes (and has done so several times). It's finally at a place where it's comfortable enough for me to wear it and I still think it's the best fitting suit in my closet, but I'd just like to get this darn arm situation under control. It's the only thing that's bothering me, at this point in time. So I'd hate to start this process all over again with another tailor, if I can just get this fixed.

Thanks!

 

[Shirtmaven]

you are attempting to do a lot of these movements with the jacket buttoned.
do you keep the jacket buttoned when you sit down?
I don't..
you are also doing most of the motions with two hands.
when people reach for something, it is usually with one hand, unless it is heavy, and then you should take your jacket off.
when you tie your shoe with the jacket on, why don't you put your foot on something higher,
the armhole is a bit low, and it seems to have a lot of padding in the sleeve head and shoulder.
this may be a reason for the restrictions.

a natural shoulder jacket is more comfortable then a heavily built up shoulder.