Solito Thread

srivats · Jun 15, 2011

They look lovely, Manton. I'd love to see full photos of you wearing the the suits sometime.

Are your Amrbrosi trousers pleated and high waisted?

voxsartoria · Jun 15, 2011

A Y · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Manton

They are all very soft, they cling to the neck and shoulders well, I can move freely, and they are sufficiently draped so that I never feel bound and I can place a reasonable number of things in my pockets without feeling them or showing any bulges (no Weiner).

Thanks. There are some jackets that feel like they want to fall off my back, and the A&S ex-pat ones feel the opposite.

--Andre

kcc · Jun 15, 2011

Manton,

For business garments, would you have the sleeve heads smoothened or opt for the puckering? Personally, I don't mind the puckering on summer or business suits, but for more formal stuff like dinner coats I'd rather not have it.

Kaplan · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

I'm wearing unlined sleeves in this WAYWRN post from yesterday. The jacket is in Minnis 7/8 Fresco, so it's about as "grabby" a fabric as might be for something without a lining.

I seem to recall someone here having some issues with a light coloured sleeve lining showing through the weave of their fresco coat. Do you find that your lighter shirts are showing through your unlined fresco? And if so, do you mind?

Manton · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Mark Seitelman

Do unlined sleeves work well?

In other words, aside from providing an ease of slipping in and out of the coat, are sleeve linings necessary to give the sleeve some shape?
Beyond slipping it on and off I haven't worn it yet but I plan to tomorrow.

Originally Posted by srivats

Are your Amrbrosi trousers pleated and high waisted?
They are higher than he would normally make but not SR high. Yes, pleated.

Originally Posted by kcc

Manton,

For business garments, would you have the sleeve heads smoothened or opt for the puckering? Personally, I don't mind the puckering on summer or business suits, but for more formal stuff like dinner coats I'd rather not have it.
I don't mind the pleating for anything.

Originally Posted by Kaplan

I seem to recall someone here having some issues with a light coloured sleeve lining showing through the weave of their fresco coat. Do you find that your lighter shirts are showing through your unlined fresco? And if so, do you mind?

This can be a problem and yes it's sort of annoying. Worse than sleeve lining, IMO, is canvas. Dark grays and blues should have a black canvas. White canvas shows through and makes the coats look shimmery.

Slewfoot · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Manton

This can be a problem and yes it's sort of annoying. Worse than sleeve lining, IMO, is canvas. Dark grays and blues should have a black canvas. White canvas shows through and makes the coats look shimmery.

I noticed this on a SB suit of mine, but not on a DB suit of the same material. Is there extra fabric in the DB between the canvas to make the sheer quality less apparent? For all I know he could have used a black canvas as I had the DB jacket made later.

patrickBOOTH · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by Manton

I don't mind the pleating for anything.

Do you get a lapped shoulder seam along with your spalla shoulders? I am thinking of doing spalla on my next suit, but I am thinking that the lapped shoulder seam would take the formality of a suit down a bit and make it more "sporty".

TheFoo · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

Do you get a lapped shoulder seam along with your spalla shoulders? I am thinking of doing spalla on my next suit, but I am thinking that the lapped shoulder seam would take the formality of a suit down a bit and make it more "sporty".

The lapped shoulder seam is much less noticeable than the shirt-set sleevehead. Of course, I'm assuming you mean the true shoulder seam, running between the collar and the shoulder point, and not the armscye.

patrickBOOTH · Jun 15, 2011

Yes, your assumption is correct, the true shoulder seam.

TheFoo · Jun 15, 2011

Originally Posted by patrickBOOTH

Yes, your assumption is correct, the true shoulder seam.

I'd be uttery shocked if more than one out of a hundred people at your office could notice and identify that your shoulder seam is lapped and not open.

Manton · Jun 15, 2011

Solito laps all the seams on the coat. All the Neapolitan coats that I have examined were made the same way. Ambrosi laps the trouser outseams but not the inseams. Lapped seams appear to be part of the culture there.

patrickBOOTH · Jun 15, 2011

Yeah, I guess you're right.

voxsartoria · Jun 15, 2011

TheFoo · Jun 15, 2011

My fresco summer suits are quarter lined, with unlined sleeves--could not possibly care less if sometimes under some lighting some of my shirt pattern might show through.

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Definitely full canvas only

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Really don't care

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