Sartoria Gianni Volpe - Naples

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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A short back balance is typical in Naples, not necessarily a mistake.

Certainly NSM and Solito, but even Rubi?

Originally Posted by Despos

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The right sleeve is marked with chalk to be made longer about 1/4" or so.

Hard call, I may have shortened the left rather than lengthen the right. Clients preference will decide.

You are right as initially I told him I wanted it 0,5cm longher when looking at it in the mirror. Once I saw the photo on my phone that evening, I called him again and asked him to keep it as it was.

the left is not in fact shorter, but the watch caught the shirt and made it look shorter under the jacket.

I look where the sleeve falls against your wrist and disregard shirt sleeves. The wrist is a constant fixed point, too many variables in shirt sleeve length to be accurate.

Originally Posted by Despos

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I look where the sleeve falls against your wrist and disregard shirt sleeves. The wrist is a constant fixed point, too many variables in shirt sleeve length to be accurate.

yeh, but trust me that bit was all held together by the watch/shirt mass. We agreed to slightly touch it also. I have lost 15kg from the original template a changed my posture quite a bit, so there were so many changes we discussed but I am confident the final product will be great and if it will need minor adjustments, we will do that as well. I was much happy with the trouser as it was cut to my new size directly, so much that I ordered a second odd trouser on the same template (left the pinstripe stroller/mezzo tight project for now)

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Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

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Certainly NSM and Solito, but even Rubi?

From my observation, yes.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Are these by "..the very best Pantalonaio, now 80?"


- B

No, a young one, with a better reputation then the much talked about on this forum's one, he works directly for Sig. Volpe, and at very reasonable pricing...

In the previous post I should have made the clarification of the cost in Naples rather then travelling tailor as I understand the other pantalonaio that evrybody seams to complaint about but still order from, get many commissions on site in US and therrefore his travelling costs needs to come out of the trousers costs, but if people do in fact travels to Naples, better and more reliable options are available. My trousers will be ready next week and my jacket and shirts should not be ready much later...

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Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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For what it's worth, Napoli Su Misura, Mina Adamo's traveling tailoring service, currently charges €300 CMT for pants. Considering that includes a baste and forward fitting in one's locale, her prices seem on par with what you describe for customers in Naples buying directly from the various local makers. At least to my uneducated eye, the construction on my first pair from her seemed approximately on par with the construction of a pair of Ambrosi-made pants that I have.

I am puzzled by the flavor of your comments about Ambrosi given that you are not, as far as I know, yourself a customer. The Ambrosis used to make the pants for Rubinacci, and I believe that they continue to make them for Solito (if not now, then until relatively recently.) Both are well regarded tailors in Naples and beyond. I rather doubt they would use a bad pants maker. Moreover, every person who has used Ambrosi seems delighted with the product (when they get it...

)

It would be more interesting for you to say what you heard, even if you do not know it directly yourself, rather than leaving a vague rumor hanging.


- B

I was given up to three names of pantalonaio by different Sartorias and none mentioned Ambrosi, that is the fact. The other comments were amply expressed here, with late deliveries and pants seams opening up, which have heard also in Naples as a reasons he was not included in this best three list.

The 80 years old guy, only really makes few pants for selected few, and according to the people I have spoken to, he is really on a different level of construction and fitting. I have expressed my desired to have at least one trouser made by him, but not sure I can make it in the list of the selected few (he cannot phisically produce that many).

You are right, I am not a client, but have heard the feedback in Naples directly from people that have used his service and preferred others to him, so it puzled me that so many people on this forum were going to so much trouble, waiting times and spending that much money, if they could get better things in Naples. I certanly would not, but I have easy access to Naples and go back quite often.

Originally Posted by marcodalondra

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I was given up to three names of pantalonaio by different Sartorias and none mentioned Ambrosi, that is the fact. The other comments were amply expressed here, with late deliveries and pants seams opening up, which have heard also in Naples as a reasons he was not included in this best three list.

The 80 years old guy, only really makes few pants for selected few, and according to the people I have spoken to, he is really on a different level of construction and fitting. I have expressed my desired to have at least one trouser made by him, but not sure I can make it in the list of the selected few (he cannot phisically produce that many).

You are right, I am not a client, but have heard the feedback in Naples directly from people that have used his service and preferred others to him, so it puzled me that so many people on this forum were going to so much trouble, waiting times and spending that much money, if they could get better things in Naples. I certanly would not, but I have easy access to Naples and go back quite often.

I think that your sentence at the end of your final paragraph (of which I have bolded a portion) solved your puzzle. Unfortunately, not all of us have that capability, so we must take advantage of those tailors that do travel.

Aaron

Marco, I posted this in your other thread:

In all fairness, the sort of negative feedback you heard concerning Ambrosi is to be expected from competitors. Many of the best-known tailors in Naples, including Rubinacci and Solito, have used Ambrosi as their trousermaker. Verbally abusing the more successful of your colleagues is fairly run of the mill in Naples--not that what you heard is necessarily wrong, just that it should not be taken as gospel.

As for pricing--I don't think anyone ever claimed that foreign clients were paying the same as local ones. Yes, you are paying a premium. But the pants are also actually available outside Naples. Try ordering some of those 150 euro trousers you mention when: (1) the trousermaker doesn't travel, (2) you don't travel to Naples, and (3) you don't speak Italian.

Originally Posted by mafoofan

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Marco, I posted this in your other thread:

In all fairness, the sort of negative feedback you heard concerning Ambrosi is to be expected from competitors. Many of the best-known tailors in Naples, including Rubinacci and Solito, have used Ambrosi as their trousermaker. Verbally abusing the more successful of your colleagues is fairly run of the mill in Naples--not that what you heard is necessarily wrong, just that it should not be taken as gospel.

As for pricing--I don't think anyone ever claimed that foreign clients were paying the same as local ones. Yes, you are paying a premium. But the pants are also actually available. Try ordering some of those 150 euro trousers from Naples when: (1) the trousermaker doesn't travel, (2) you don't travel to Naples, and (3) you don't speak Italian.

I understand what you are saying, but those were not competitors but people that had tried him in the past and apparently decided to drop them. You see as said before, those trousemakers were working directly for sartorias rather then direct clients. I am pretty sure that both Rubinacci and Solito may have and still use more then one trousermaker and will now who the best ones are.


I was particularly impressed about My experience as I was measured and the basted trouser was ready a day later. Few adjustments and the final product should be available by next week. And the guys at GV, including the Pantalonaio were pretty busy.

Originally Posted by marcodalondra

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I understand what you are saying, but those were not competitors but people that had tried him in the past and apparently decided to drop them. You see as said before, those trousemakers were working directly for sartorias rather then direct clients. I am pretty sure that both Rubinacci and Solito may have and still use more then one trousermaker and will now who the best ones are.

Rubinacci has been doing all their trousermaking in-house for the past few years. Ambrosi does work for both other tailors and direct clients.

Originally Posted by marcodalondra

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I was particularly impressed about My experience as I was measured and the basted trouser was ready a day later. Few adjustments and the final product should be available by next week. And the guys at GV, including the Pantalonaio were pretty busy.

This was the way Ambrosi used to be. On my first visit to Naples years ago, they completely finished a pair of trousers in three days. Of course, the increasing size of their business makes that impossible now.

Matt,

Let me clarify that no one has talked badly about someone else to me, they only answered my questions about who assembled their trousers and when no one mentioned Ambrosi, after I specifically asked some have told him to have used him in the past but prefer to use others. I believe GV trousemaker has a bother and father that manage an operation with 18 workers to cope with a large amount of work for many of the top Neapolitan sartorias.

My point is that there are many trousermakers in Naples where Sartoria have outsourced at least the assembly even if the cutting was done in house, ad it would slow the production of jackets, which are more time consuming.

I wan born and raised there and understand that Market. Up to my teenage years, from my grandpa to my father, brothers etc we all had our shirts made by a woman at her house, it was the norm. You went to sartorias to order the first suit etc.., trousers were already outsourced...

It was a shame we could not meet as I would have shown you Naples from a local perspective rather than the one you have been exposed so far... Hopefully next time you are over there I can join you at the same time

Originally Posted by marcodalondra

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It was a shame we could not meet as I would have shown you Naples from a local perspective rather than the one you have been exposed so far...

You would've mugged him?

Just kidding.