ADVICE Requested - HELP - Suit for very UNIQUE proportions

I've been searching for a suit that fits well for MONTHS now, and I haven't found many (if any) that fit well. I hope you can help. In a nutshell, my question is:

Do you know of any labels/stores/websites/etc. that have suits (or separates) with very narrow shoulders (compared to the chest)?


That's my main question. If you have any ideas, I truly appreciate it.

Thank you -- James

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PS. For the curious, here are my details: I have very unique proportions -- I'm 6' tall and slim with narrow shoulders, medium chest, large hips/waist.

- My shoulders fit well in a standard 36R

- My chest is 38 inches

- My waist is 34 (sometimes 35 - I like my pants to be medium rise, and sit lower)

- I'm 6' tall and slim (170 lbs), with long, lanky arms.

I considered posting this in the quick questions section, but I felt like this wasn't very quick. Although not necessary, the bonus features I would hope for would be: high, small armholes; quality wool, medium-sized peak lapels, a six-inch drop(or less) and flat front, straight-leg pants. I'm looking to buy a couple suits, so I'm hoping for something around $500 - but don't limit your suggestions.

Again, thank you for your help.

Your only hope is MTM/bespoke. you will not find someone that cuts a jacket with such small shoulders and a 40 inch chest. And you are really a 34-35 waist at your height/weight ?

Isn't he what many of those fashion forward slim brands are aimed at?

What do you mean by standard 36 for shoulders? What is your over the arm measurement?

What brands have you tried?

Originally Posted by Nicola

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Isn't he what many of those fashion forward slim brands are aimed at? What do you mean by standard 36 for shoulders? What is your over the arm measurement? What brands have you tried?
I think it's the waist that's going to be the trouble--there's probably plenty of jackets that would fit him, but not so much in the pants. Perhaps someplace that might let him mix and match? Brooks Brothers in one of their slim fits, like the Fitz? Might be too large in the shoulders, but maybe not so much that it can't be altered...

IF you are not a troll which is quite possible then MTM/bespoke is your only route.

- edmorel - I'm actually more of a 38 inch chest. And yes, I'm definitely a 34 size pants (at least), even at my height/weight/build. - GBR - I'm not quite a troll, but I'm pretty odd. I (half) jokingly say that I've got 12-year-old girl shoulders. I have most of my weight in my hips, thighs and waist. Above the waist I look like Tayshaun Prince but with narrower/smaller shoulders. And they're "rounded" too, which makes them even smaller. Below the waist I'm built more like a soccer player. http://inside.nikebasketball.com/new...2/t_prince.jpg - Nicola - I will post an over the arm measurement tomorrow (I don't have my tape measure on me). Here are the stores and brands I've tried: - Brooks Brothers (both at the mall and at an outlet): Even their slim cut isnt that slim in the shoulders. I'm not sure if I tried the Fitz, but I know I tried on several. - Theory - Their 38R fits my shoulders well but not my chest (too tight). The 40R is a little big on my shoulders, just right on my chest. Also, I feel like the material is too thin/light. - Macy's - I tried on several brands there - Calvin Klein, Perry Ellis, Alfani, etc. The slim/modern suits fit me okay (not great), but they lack quality (some are polyrayon, some are just light, low-grade wool). The better quality suits tend to be more traditional in fit. - Sak's Off 5th Outlet - I tried on a Zegna 38R - the fit was okay, but it was improved by the quality and thickness of the fabric. I tried on a few others (including Saks brand) and they didn't fit very well. - I've been to several bargain suit warehouses -- I remember Fellini Uomo having a good fit, but it was polyrayon and there wasn't that much material in the pants to let them out. - I've been to several other stores, and the story has been pretty much the same: either the chest fit, or the shoulders fit. For the modern/slim cuts, a lot of the slimming happens in the body of the suit, not in the shoulders. Also, some slim suits had 7 or 8 inch drops, which won't work for me. For Brooks, I'll try to go back and try the Fitz again, per your suggestions. Anyone have any other suggestions besides Brooks? Are there any MTM online that are worth looking into? Do you think it'd be better to try to find something that fits in the shoulders, and then let out the chest and waist of the jacket a little (and let out the pants too)? Also, can anyone think of any other quality suit separates places? I know it seems nuts, but I've spent the last several weekends shopping around, and just haven't found a good fit. Thank you all for lending your thoughts - I appreciate it.

It would be more productive to post a picture of you wearing some suits instead of some random NBA player. Maybe that's how you consider yourself, but that might not be a totally objective point of view. Did you have actual measurements of your body taken? Did a professional tailor take your measurements?

Don't take this the wrong way, but what you consider a good fit might not be, and vice versa. Those shoulders that you say don't fit well might in fact be perfect. I don't think anyone can give you good advice unless we see directly how clothes look on you, rather than relying on some testimony which may or may not be correct.

Originally Posted by edmorel

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Your only hope is MTM/bespoke. you will not find someone that cuts a jacket with such small shoulders and a 40 inch chest. And you are really a 34-35 waist at your height/weight

?

Is your disbelief that his waist is too large or too small?

Originally Posted by Lightbringer

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Is your disbelief that his waist is too large or too small?

I think it's obvious that the disbelief is that his waist is too large. 38 chest, 34-35 waist is only a drop 3 or 4.

Originally Posted by 6stringsakc

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I think it's obvious that the disbelief is that his waist is too large. 38 chest, 34-35 waist is only a drop 3 or 4.

Which would be a portly drop. Might be hard to find in a 38 but not unheard of in bigger sizes.

Originally Posted by redfishbluefish

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- Sak's Off 5th Outlet - I tried on a Zegna 38R - the fit was okay, but it was improved by the quality and thickness of the fabric. I tried on a few others (including Saks brand) and they didn't fit very well.


Do you think it'd be better to try to find something that fits in the shoulders, and then let out the chest and waist of the jacket a little (and let out the pants too)?


I assume this was a Z Zegna and not a mainline? If the Z Zegna fit you in the shoulders I don't think you're that small. Smaller then the higher end Zegna but not unnaturally small.

If the Zegna fit you what was wrong with it?

If you have narrow shoulders, something roped might not be a bad idea.

- Tgt - I think I've let this get bogged down in the details (my fault) -- my main question was (and is): Do you know of any suits/designers/labels whose jackets have narrower shoulders? If you have any ideas, I'd really appreciate it. - Nicola - I guess I wasn't clear -- the Zegna Z didn't fit me very well, just okay. It sloped over the end of my shoulders about an inch and a half, but the thicker material kept it from looking awful. But still not a great fit.

You need to find something that fits your largest body part (in this case your chest). Take a look at the Italian makers (save Canali). They tend to have slightly narrower shoulders. I want to say Sartoria Partenopea (sp?) might work. I have a similar problem that pretty much prevents me from wearing most OTR. MTM/Bespoke is really your best option if finances allow.

seems to me that what you really need then is someone who can sell you a jacket and trousers in different sizes.