Please critique my first bespoke suit

MrInvariant · Oct 10, 2010

Hello, This is my first attempt at bespoke suiting...

The suit was made with a single basted fitting.
The fabric is VBC Super 110s.
Cost was around 1350 USD.
Right shoulder has some slight padding, left shoulder has just a very thin layer.

I would appreciate some input on:

how to instruct my tailor for the next time,
armhole (I asked for smaller armhole, do you think I should ask for even smaller? My goal is to get more freedom in movement. Should I change the way the sleeves are attached? ("Shirt sleeves", etc.))
other details, e.g. button stance, george height, etc.

What I already know is that the angle of the shoulders is not quite right, which causes some bulging in a few places. Unfortunately this is not something that could be fixed at this point. I intend to have the waist taken in slightly for more suppression. Thank you in advance to everyone. Update 2010/10/16: It turns out that there was some misunderstanding (probably something was lost in translation since I'm not native Japanese), and the suit was not considered finished when I took the photos. So the photos are not representative of the final product. The suit is being altered now, and I will upload new photos when it's ready.

Frihed89 · Oct 10, 2010

Critique my wife? No way.

Is it comfy?

Maccimus · Oct 10, 2010

open the quarter next time

MrInvariant · Oct 10, 2010

Thank you for the comments, and looking forward to hearing more.

@Maccimus: good call on the quarters, I will opt for more open quarters next time.

I just realized that I forgot to include the compulsory 'learning to fly' action shots!! So here they are:

iheartangels · Oct 10, 2010

Why is it so shiny?

MrInvariant · Oct 10, 2010

Originally Posted by iheartangels

Why is it so shiny?

I'm guessing it's because of the camera flash/lighting. It's not shiny in real life.

Shirtmaven · Oct 10, 2010

where was the suit made?
i think it was cut on a pattern a size to large.
fronts are too large/needs more supression.
I have seen a lot worse

luftvier · Oct 10, 2010

Originally Posted by MrInvariant

Hello,

This is my first attempt at bespoke suiting...

I am relatively bespoke illiterate, but isn't a single basted fitting usually at least one too few to nail bespoke correctly?

Maccimus · Oct 10, 2010

Originally Posted by luftvier

I am relatively bespoke illiterate, but isn't a single basted fitting usually at least one too few to nail bespoke correctly?

Maybe it was ordered during OP's/tailor's trip.

MrInvariant · Oct 10, 2010

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

where was the suit made?
i think it was cut on a pattern a size to large.
fronts are too large/needs more supression.
I have seen a lot worse

I will mention this to my tailor. It was made here: Aihara Tailor

Originally Posted by luftvier

I am relatively bespoke illiterate, but isn't a single basted fitting usually at least one too few to nail bespoke correctly?

Originally Posted by Maccimus

Maybe it was ordered during OP's/tailor's trip.

Actually I suggested that we do another basted fitting to my tailor, but he said that one is enough. I guess he was wrong... I must be a more difficult case than his regular customers. There was basically no time constraint imposed, since I live here in Japan.

Maccimus · Oct 10, 2010

Originally Posted by MrInvariant

I will mention this to my tailor. It was made here: Aihara Tailor

Actually I suggested that we do another basted fitting to my tailor, but he said that one is enough. I guess he was wrong... I must be a more difficult case than his regular customers. There was basically no time constraint imposed, since I live here in Japan.

Now you know you should always insist a forward fitting at least. Actually you are not a difficult case but one fitting simply can't make it perfect as you may expect. Maybe it is the price point? Sounds quite cheap to Japanese bespoke.

P-K-L · Oct 10, 2010

Right now it looks like okay-fitting OTR to me...

MrInvariant · Oct 10, 2010

Originally Posted by Maccimus

Now you know you should always insist a forward fitting at least. Actually you are not a difficult case but one fitting simply can't make it perfect as you may expect. Maybe it is the price point? Sounds quite cheap to Japanese bespoke.
I thought that the forward fitting is already too late to adjust the shoulders... I don't think the price point is the issue since one basted fitting costs $250, so he could have said that 'If it's within your budget, let's do another fitting.' (I'm aware that the price point is quite cheap, but this is basically as high as I'm willing to go.)

twosnapsandgo · Oct 10, 2010

Originally Posted by MrInvariant

I thought that the forward fitting is already too late to adjust the shoulders...
I don't think the price point is the issue since one basted fitting costs $250, so he could have said that 'If it's within your budget, let's do another fitting.'
(I'm aware that the price point is quite cheap, but this is basically as high as I'm willing to go.)

So are you suggesting that I should not give this tailor a second chance (second order)?

i agree. I would have thought your sport coat was otr.

hopefully other members can voice their opinions, perhaps i am wrong. it looks big on you, like he made the blazer for someone larger. You seem like a regular or short judging by the pictures. Atleast that is way the suit made you look.

Maccimus · Oct 10, 2010

Originally Posted by twosnapsandgo

i agree. I would have thought your sport coat was otr.

hopefully other members can voice their opinions, perhaps i am wrong. it looks big on you, like he made the blazer for someone larger. You seem like a regular or short judging by the pictures. Atleast that is way the suit made you look.

Close quarter and camera angle make him look short. I guess he is at least 180cm, judging from the shirt picture.

Please critique my first bespoke suit

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