Sole condition and when to repair

kylelovesyou · Jul 25, 2010

At what point do I need to take my shoes in to have the soles repaired? For example, this pair is worn to the point where the stitching is becoming exposed (sorry for the low quality pics, it's the best I could do). You can hopefully see that, around the pivot point, the stitches are nearly exposed. Should I just take them in, or can I wear them a bit longer? I've probably worn them <25 times total.

juniper · Jul 25, 2010

I resole them just as a hole starts to appear in the middle of the sole. By this point, about half of the stitches will be entirely worn through and broken (patch on left, patch on right, toe). Seems to work fine.

Resoling after 25 wearings is nuts.

DWFII · Jul 25, 2010

Exposed threads are a good time to start thinking about a re-sole...when you see them, it a sign you need to keep a weather eye on the sole.

Don't let a hole wear through. In most cases, if you are alert, you'll see the first signs of the the sole becoming too thin before it wears through...maybe a small crack or some such.

That's the time to repair them...without delay.

SuitMyself · Jul 25, 2010

Originally Posted by kylelovesyou

At what point do I need to take my shoes in to have the soles repaired? For example, this pair is worn to the point where the stitching is becoming exposed (sorry for the low quality pics, it's the best I could do). You can hopefully see that, around the pivot point, the stitches are nearly exposed. Should I just take them in, or can I wear them a bit longer? I've probably worn them <25 times total.

There's a hole in the soles after only 25 wears? I think you need to buy better quality shoes.

BTW, what photos? Where are they?

kylelovesyou · Jul 25, 2010

Originally Posted by juniper

I resole them just as a hole starts to appear in the middle of the sole. By this point, about half of the stitches will be entirely worn through and broken (patch on left, patch on right, toe). Seems to work fine.

Resoling after 25 wearings is nuts.

I agree, that seems like far too soon, but the wear is what it is. Maybe I have just never owned a decently made pair, but every leather sole I've had has deteriorated so quickly as to make me question my continued support of this type of construction.

kylelovesyou · Jul 25, 2010

Sorry, not sure why the photos didn't go through. Once more...

Svenn · Jul 25, 2010

Pardon my blasphemy, but how much does it cost generally for a cobbler to replace such a leather sole with a rubber one? The whole sole, not just tack on a bottom rubber lining. I was told a one-piece (heel and front fused somewhat) rubber sole would be much more ergonomic.

phxlawstudent · Jul 25, 2010

Originally Posted by kylelovesyou

At what point do I need to take my shoes in to have the soles repaired? For example, this pair is worn to the point where the stitching is becoming exposed (sorry for the low quality pics, it's the best I could do). You can hopefully see that, around the pivot point, the stitches are nearly exposed. Should I just take them in, or can I wear them a bit longer? I've probably worn them <25 times total.
Your shoe's sole is glued to the insole, so theres not really much danger in your sole falling off even if the threads get a little worn down in the very tip. AKA I wouldn't worry about that particular shoe falling apart. Replace the sole when it starts to feel spongy and weak.

Chim12 · Jul 25, 2010

These soles look like they've still got lots of life left in them. Waiting until you see a hole is waiting too long, the soft or spongy feel described above is a good guage and something you should be able to feel if you push your thumb against the sole.

srivats · Jul 25, 2010

Are you sure these shoes are even GY welted? They seem to be blake stitched.

bengal-stripe · Jul 25, 2010

There is hardly any wear on those soles, not even on the toes, where many people (including yours truly) can wear there shoes down very quickly. As others have said, once the centre of the sole feels soft and spongy, then is the time for new soles.

BTW, those shoes are Blake-stitched. There is a direct connection to the inside of the shoe. Do not wear them on rainy days, the stitching will act as a wick and transfer the wetness of the pavement right into the shoes and onto your feet.

Professor Chaos · Jul 25, 2010

Originally Posted by bengal-stripe

There is hardly any wear on those soles, not even on the toes, where many people (including yours truly) can wear there shoes down very quickly. As others have said, once the centre of the sole feels soft and spongy, then is the time for new soles.

BTW, those shoes are Blake-stitched. There is a direct connection to the inside of the shoe. Do not wear them on rainy days, the stitching will act as a wick and transfer the wetness of the pavement right into the shoes and onto your feet.
How can you tell they're blake stitched? I'd love to know what to look for.

kylelovesyou · Jul 25, 2010

I didn't think they were too worn, but I'm not yet well educated in this stuff, so I wasn't sure if the stitch would pose a problem. Thanks for the help!

bengal-stripe · Jul 25, 2010

Originally Posted by Professor Chaos

How can you tell they're blake stitched? I'd love to know what to look for.

In a blaked shoe, the stitching runs further away from the edge (about 3/8” = 10 mm) then in a welted shoe where it is maybe 4 - 5 mm The stitches used for Blake construction are also longer then the ones for Goodyear.

Sometimes you cannot see the stitching as it is ‘channelled’ (hidden under a leather flap). Then look inside the shoe, if you see a row of stitches going round inside the shoe, than it is Blake. The Goodyear stitching goes through the welt, outside of the shoe.

Hope that helps.

Nick V. · Jul 26, 2010

It depends on your gait.
Some pronate inside or out. If that's the case keep and eye on the inside and outside borders of the soles lateral to the ball of your foot. In some cases that's the first area that thins out do to wear.

Sole condition and when to repair

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