HOF: What Are You Wearing Right Now - Part II

Originally Posted by ManofKent

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Shirt: Eton of Sweden

Originally Posted by niidawg3

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http://i624.photobucket.com/albums/t...3/94cc89e5.jpg

Two great shirt patterns.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Drakes (for A Suitable Wardrobe) tussah silk tie

I'm so glad you bought that tie and I can console myself for not jumping on it by knowing another SF'er has one instead. It looks great. I ended up getting a few different Drakes ties instead including a solid linen in a "natural" colour which I'm really looking forward to wearing come the summer.

Today marks the debut of another Drakes tie I got recently. It made going back to work after about 10 days off almost bearable:

Originally Posted by niidawg3

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Yawwwwn ...

That shirt is awesome.

Originally Posted by kgmessier

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Low- to mid-80s tomorrow.

Love that tie!

- Keith

Yay!

Originally Posted by ManofKent

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All of this is very nice, but I'm particularly glad to see you with slightly rumpled knees

Even I rumple.

Originally Posted by MBreinin

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Good old Walt. You are the Walt of SF, Vox. I remember TZ when it was nothing...when it was still based in Singapore, before Richard even owned it (and that is, what, 4 owners ago??). Those were the good old days.....

Mike

His old article on the Patek 27-460 has kept that on my must have list.

Originally Posted by Mannix

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I quite like this. Your Borrelli sport coats are fantastic.

Originally Posted by ajv

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I really like that combo, jealous of the tie. Unusual break on the trousers for you Bill.

Adrian

Originally Posted by teddieriley

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I actually like this amount of break.

Originally Posted by nozorro

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Like the longer pants. Makes a huge differnce in terms of a more relaxed look.

Thank you. Today's break is as much as I can take.

Originally Posted by Holdfast

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I'm so glad you bought that tie and I can console myself for not jumping on it by knowing another SF'er has one instead. It looks great. I ended up getting a few different Drakes ties instead including a solid linen in a "natural" colour which I'm really looking forward to wearing come the summer.

Thanks, C. I look forward to your other new Drakes ties, particularly the linen.

Originally Posted by niidawg3

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- love the slubbiness of the Drake's tie.
- does the rumples around the sleevehead bother you? i have the same "problem" with the suit i am wearing today. i think its an issue of age, since it has developed slowly with time and body change. i know you are a perfectionist when it comes to your jackets (not casual ... lol) so i am wondering what your feelings are on it.

Originally Posted by _AMD

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I'm pretty sure that is meant to be that way...spalla camicia and all. Vox, please correct me if I am wrong.

Aaron

As Aaron notes, the "problem" on the Borrelli is actually a feature.

Let's see a closeup:



The puckering at the top of the sleeve is from incompletely easing a larger upper arm into a smaller armhole. Here's an example of easing, but along the shoulder seam:



As it is completed, the fabric is ironed and shape to eliminate the puckering.

Here's a Manton diagram showing the spalla camicia (click the pic for his full article on the Neopolitan shoulder back on AAAC):



So, in such a "shirt shoulder," the seam allowances are tucked under and then topstiched at the shoulder's edge. The excess fabric is gathered at the top of the shoulder, rather than being eased in completely, and creates the "waterfall," which is even more pronounced when the fabric is less amenable to shaping by iron...like cotton.

The same thing is done in A&S-style shoulders, but the allowances are not tucked under the shoulder and there is attention paid to avoid the puckering through easing in the excess from the shoulder.

Again, read the Manton article for a complete discussion, and look at my repost of Filangieri's article.


- B

Checks and Stripes

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Borrelli Linosa cotton jacket, 3 roll 2 "sack," no canvas or padding

Bill,

on the paprika trip SG and me discussed the size of patch pockets. being montesquieu's the largest(no offense intended), yours are a strong contender. at the size of a barbour jacket pocket, isn't it a throw-off for the balance? or is it the fact, their italian origin gives a reference to songbird hunting?

Originally Posted by fritzl

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Bill,

on the paprika trip SG and me discussed the size of patch pockets. being montesquieu's the largest(no offense intended), yours are a strong contender. at the size of a barbour jacket pocket, isn't it a throw-off for the balance? or is it the fact, their italian origin gives a reference to songbird hunting?

It is not something to which I've given a lot of thought.

I am having a new Steed tweed jacket with patches made up. They will look different than the previous ones, with the main thing that they will be shorter vertically. There will be a few other changes as well. This number might be ready for forward fitting in a couple of weeks. If so, I'll try to snap some pics.

On the other hand, the patch pockets on the MBTâ„¢ numbers strike as a bit smaller than ideal.

The RTW Borrelli jacket today is in between the two.

Depending on how the new Steed patches go, I might have the old ones redone. We'll see.

It seems to me that the taller dimensions of the A&S and other SR-style patch pockets follow the interior outline of what would be the pocket dimensions of a flapped, besom, or welt pocket. At least, that was the case with my first set of Steed jackets with patches. The contemporary English don't seem to view the patches as a design exercise on their own, although there are plenty of examples of older English goods that do.


- B

Originally Posted by Fred49

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sf robot Tom Mahon suit

grund gütiger, this is miles away from your standard.

there's just hope it breaks in nicely...

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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It is not something to which I've given a lot of thought.

i don't give even close than you do...

though, i love your way of explaining details. thanks

ever jacket
Kiton shirt
RR jeans
** belt
Armani socks
testoni penny loafers
Darphin cologne
Tiffany watch

Originally Posted by niidawg3

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- three casual looks done well.

thanks, and ditto for the other two

Originally Posted by TRINI

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really really like the colors, patterns, textures and fit here (everything!)

Originally Posted by NOBD

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very nice fabric, is it flannel?

Today I wore this, it's almost impossible to tie anything but a four in hand with this thick of a wool tie

Originally Posted by niidawg3

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Yawwwwn ...

Fantastic combo - that green color is just the thing for spring!

Pollen-hating around Pinehurst at ~90 degrees today

You are a braver man than I to endure 90* heat with a jacket!

Jacket and trou are linen + humidity was much lower today than it will be during the coming months in the Carolinas.