Ugolini

Bemer, too, is young, only about 40. Are his RTW made by Valextra?

Bemer's got quite a bit going - bespoke, RTW, accessories. This is a trend with shoemakers, Corthay and G-G included.

G-G:
October 2006 contemporary and classic men's range

January 2008 men's casual lace-ups and boots

January 2009 made to order and high specification slippers

January 2010 hand made bags and accessories

January 2011 bench made ladies' range

Corthay:
1990 Bespoke

2003 Ready to wear

Mid term Sportswear

Long term accessories

from Paillette.net:
5 Partners (not including CORTHAY�S BROTHERS)
2 professionals in international luxury goods.
2 finance executives.
1 investor in new technologies.
Their aim : to expand the brand name in France and
throughout the world (strategy and finance).
Their + : an objective view and stand back on the
business world.
Their common landmark : a passion for artisan
workmanship and a love of beautiful objects.

No, he makes Valextra's ready made. Quality wise they are whay you would find at BEMER'S.

Stefano does his RTW in-house? There was a young Japanese fellow doing some work at the Bemer's shop on via di Camaldoli, but...maybe he has a (third) location elsewhere like Corthay has his RTW production in Neuilly-Plaisance? I didn't ask Stefano specifics about the RTW as I wasn't particularly interested in the RTW line. The price of Bemer's RTW is almost equal to Ugolini's bespoke.

I think that you are right about there being a factory off site. I spoke to somebody else in the BEMER's shop. I think he said they were made in an owned factory somewhere off site, but I do not remember. I, also, was not so interested in the RTW shoes for the same reason.

That's possible. From what I saw he's got quite a few people working as apprentices in his shops. Every single one that I saw was from Japan.

Mathew, are you planning a trip to Florence anytime soon?

When I was there there were two Japanese girls and two Italian guys(one has since left) working in the bespoke atelier on Borgo San Frediano, and one Japanese fellow working at the shop on via di Camaldoli.

I'm considering a trip to Florence in the near future.

According to Tony Gaziano, many Japanese apprentice in Europe. There's apparently quite a lively bespoke shoe industry in Japan.

--Andre

Originally Posted by meaculpa

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That's possible. From what I saw he's got quite a few people working as apprentices in his shops. Every single one that I saw was from Japan.

Mathew, are you planning a trip to Florence anytime soon?
Didn't see Daniel Day-Lewis, eh?

Originally Posted by RJman

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Didn't see Daniel Day-Lewis, eh?

I missed him, too, sadly.

Don't worry. None of these guys have seen him for several years.

Which Bespoke shoes would you get: Ugolini, or Riccardo Freccia Besseti or Bemer?

Cost, highest to lowest:

Bemer

Bestetti

Ugolini

Originally Posted by Chris "Italia"

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Which Bespoke shoes would you get: Ugolini, or Riccardo Freccia Besseti or Bemer?

the question rages on

Originally Posted by iammatt

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It is a bit more commercial, what with the second store, Valextra etc. Nothing wrong with that IMO. IMO, the best makers are the ones who have enough business sense to stay in business and not have to cut corners to pay bills.

Another easy mark for the merchant prince business model. You're obviously not asking the right people for advice.

A lot of good stuff on this thread. To clarify, the RTW are made in-house in a seperate factory and according to Mario Bemer, Stefano's brother and head of the RTW operations, they are all hand finished.

I am a fan of Bemer and his RTW holds its own against the usual suspects like G&G, Vass, etc.

As for the Valextra range the finishing is, for the lack of a better description, less sophisticated. However, given the fire sale prices at the Hong Kong Valextra boutique, its bloody good value.

Here is a tease...