Ugolini

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by johninla, Oct 13, 2006.

  1. mkk

    mkk Senior member

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    Bemer, too, is young, only about 40. Are his RTW made by Valextra?

    Bemer's got quite a bit going - bespoke, RTW, accessories. This is a trend with shoemakers, Corthay and G-G included.

    G-G:
    October 2006 contemporary and classic men's range

    January 2008 men's casual lace-ups and boots

    January 2009 made to order and high specification slippers

    January 2010 hand made bags and accessories

    January 2011 bench made ladies' range

    Corthay:
    1990 Bespoke

    2003 Ready to wear

    Mid term Sportswear

    Long term accessories

    from Paillette.net:
    5 Partners (not including CORTHAY�S BROTHERS)
    2 professionals in international luxury goods.
    2 finance executives.
    1 investor in new technologies.
    Their aim : to expand the brand name in France and
    throughout the world (strategy and finance).
    Their + : an objective view and stand back on the
    business world.
    Their common landmark : a passion for artisan
    workmanship and a love of beautiful objects.
     


  2. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    No, he makes Valextra's ready made. Quality wise they are whay you would find at BEMER'S.
     


  3. mkk

    mkk Senior member

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    Stefano does his RTW in-house? There was a young Japanese fellow doing some work at the Bemer's shop on via di Camaldoli, but...maybe he has a (third) location elsewhere like Corthay has his RTW production in Neuilly-Plaisance? I didn't ask Stefano specifics about the RTW as I wasn't particularly interested in the RTW line. The price of Bemer's RTW is almost equal to Ugolini's bespoke.
     


  4. itsstillmatt

    itsstillmatt The Liberator Dubiously Honored

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    I think that you are right about there being a factory off site. I spoke to somebody else in the BEMER's shop. I think he said they were made in an owned factory somewhere off site, but I do not remember. I, also, was not so interested in the RTW shoes for the same reason.
     


  5. Demeter

    Demeter Senior member

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    That's possible. From what I saw he's got quite a few people working as apprentices in his shops. Every single one that I saw was from Japan.

    Mathew, are you planning a trip to Florence anytime soon?
     


  6. mkk

    mkk Senior member

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    When I was there there were two Japanese girls and two Italian guys(one has since left) working in the bespoke atelier on Borgo San Frediano, and one Japanese fellow working at the shop on via di Camaldoli.

    I'm considering a trip to Florence in the near future.
     


  7. A Y

    A Y Senior member

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    According to Tony Gaziano, many Japanese apprentice in Europe. There's apparently quite a lively bespoke shoe industry in Japan.

    --Andre
     


  8. RJman

    RJman Posse Member Dubiously Honored

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    That's possible. From what I saw he's got quite a few people working as apprentices in his shops. Every single one that I saw was from Japan.

    Mathew, are you planning a trip to Florence anytime soon?

    Didn't see Daniel Day-Lewis, eh?
     


  9. Demeter

    Demeter Senior member

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    Didn't see Daniel Day-Lewis, eh?

    I missed him, too, sadly. [​IMG]
     


  10. mkk

    mkk Senior member

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    Don't worry. None of these guys have seen him for several years.
     


  11. Chris "Italia"

    Chris "Italia" Senior member

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    Which Bespoke shoes would you get: Ugolini, or Riccardo Freccia Besseti or Bemer?
     


  12. mkk

    mkk Senior member

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    Cost, highest to lowest:

    Bemer

    Bestetti

    Ugolini
     


  13. ThinkDerm

    ThinkDerm Senior member

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    Which Bespoke shoes would you get: Ugolini, or Riccardo Freccia Besseti or Bemer?

    the question rages on
     


  14. Concordia

    Concordia Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    It is a bit more commercial, what with the second store, Valextra etc. Nothing wrong with that IMO. IMO, the best makers are the ones who have enough business sense to stay in business and not have to cut corners to pay bills.

    Another easy mark for the merchant prince business model. You're obviously not asking the right people for advice.
     


  15. gazman70k

    gazman70k Senior member

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    A lot of good stuff on this thread. To clarify, the RTW are made in-house in a seperate factory and according to Mario Bemer, Stefano's brother and head of the RTW operations, they are all hand finished.

    I am a fan of Bemer and his RTW holds its own against the usual suspects like G&G, Vass, etc.

    As for the Valextra range the finishing is, for the lack of a better description, less sophisticated. However, given the fire sale prices at the Hong Kong Valextra boutique, its bloody good value.

    Here is a tease...
    [​IMG]
     


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