Definitive guide to wool that won't shine

I know that I, and many others, have brought up the topic of shiny wool a few times. These conversations never seem to lead to any firm answers, however. So I'm starting this thread. I'm considering getting my first bespoke suit the next time Chan comes to DC and would like to really do my homework on fabrics before I pull the trigger so that the suit lasts for a LONG time. I am not afraid of wearing my clothes, and I like a nice patina. But shine isn't patina to me. To me, shine looks like ****.

So I ask, what suitings resist shine the best? I know that all worsteds will eventually shine, but there simply have to be some that are adept at prolonging the inevitable (how else could some people claim to have worn bespoke items for 20+ years?). Are the Super 80s and 90s that SF bigtimers like Manton, etc. claim to love for their robustness also resistant to shine? Would sharkskin make a good choice b/c it's inherent sheen will hide shine from wear?

Originally Posted by The Louche

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Are the Super 80s and 90s that SF bigtimers like Manton, etc. claim to love for their robustness also resistant to shine?

Manton's anti-shine secret...which he told me in confidence...is this: "Rub not others and neither rub yourself."

Truly, words by which to live.


- B

Shine from wear is not a normal phenomena, unless you wear the item many, many times. A good wool is not going to get shiny for quite a few years worth of wear, if ever, at least in my experience. I would simply stay away from something like mohair which is shiny to begin with, but other than that, if you go with a good English wool, I would not worry about it getting shiny.

Originally Posted by edmorel

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Shine from wear is not a normal phenomena, unless you wear the item many, many times. A good wool is not going to get shiny for quite a few years worth of wear, if ever, at least in my experience. I would simply stay away from something like mohair which is shiny to begin with, but other than that, if you go with a good English wool, I would not worry about it getting shiny.

So do you think that some of the older items I have got shiny because they were made of inferior wool?

Originally Posted by The Louche

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So do you think that some of the older items I have got shiny because they were made of inferior wool?

Hard to say, hopefully one of the fabric experts will check in. I would guess yes, either that or you wear the stuff alot and rub it against desks/tables etc.

Originally Posted by edmorel

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I would guess yes, either that or you wear the stuff alot and rub it against desks/tables etc.

This is one of FNB's issues, and why he stays away from frescos.


- B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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This is one of FNB's issues, and why he stays away from frescos.


- B

Paul Jheeta has developed a suit construction methodology that negates the "rub" effect on all wools. You can slide on your knees up and down a hallway with no effect.

Originally Posted by edmorel

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Paul Jheeta has developed a suit construction methodology that negates the "rub" effect on all wools. You can slide on your knees up and down a hallway with no effect.

Just so that I am completely in tune with you, you are talking about Savile Row's Paul Jheeta, correct?


- B

Originally Posted by edmorel

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Hard to say, hopefully one of the fabric experts will check in. I would guess yes, either that or you wear the stuff alot and rub it against desks/tables etc.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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This is one of FNB's issues, and why he stays away from frescos.


- B

Funny you two should bring these points up: I am aware of table rubbing. I always remove my coat at my desk b/c of it too. (In fact, I am jealous of Senators b/c they are usually rich and wear their coats when sitting in committe, wildly rubbing their elbows on the laqured tables.)

Oddly, my go-to blazer is made of H&S Crispaire fresco. It gets lots of wear and has no trace of shine on the elbows after almost 2 years.

The ballers on this forum have it so hard. The more they spend on clothes, the more attractive they get and the more they are touched and rubbed and in some cases even spanked. This will show wear no matter how hardy the cloth! Oh the troubles the Voxes and Iammats of this world have to suffer. The shoes however show no wear, they walk on the bodies of the women that throw themselves at their feet. A bespoke pair lasts them a lifetime.

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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Just so that I am completely in tune with you, you are talking about Savile Row's Paul Jheeta, correct?


- B

Who is this Paul Jheeta you speak of now and then. Is he the Kabbaz of bespoke suits?

Originally Posted by The Louche

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Funny you two should bring these points up: I am aware of table rubbing. I always remove my coat at my desk b/c of it too. (In fact, I am jealous of Senators b/c they are usually rich and wear their coats when sitting in committe, wildly rubbing their elbows on the laqured tables.)

Oddly, my go-to blazer is made of H&S Crispaire fresco. It gets lots of wear and has no trace of shine on the elbows after almost 2 years.

I don't take off my jackets (or pants) during the day, and as far as I can tell, I have not a single jacket (or pair of pants) that has a shine.

This might be due to diet, however.


- B

Originally Posted by Flieger

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The ballers on this forum have it so hard. The more they spend on clothes, the more attractive they get and the more they are touched and rubbed and in some cases even spanked. This will show wear no matter how hardy the cloth! Oh the troubles the Voxes and Iammats of this world have to suffer. The shoes however show no wear, they walk on the bodies of the women that throw themselves at their feet. A bespoke pair lasts them a lifetime.

This is one of the finest essays I have ever read on teh StyleForvm. It captures so much in so few words.

Well done.

Originally Posted by Wes Bourne

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Who is this Paul Jheeta you speak of now and then. Is he the Kabbaz of bespoke suits?

I don't think that Paul Jheeta sells underwear online, though.

I could be wrong.


- B

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

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I don't take off my jackets (or pants) during the day, and as far as I can tell, I have not a single jacket (or pair of pants) that has a shine.

This might be due to diet, however.
- B

Who's diet? Yours? Or the sheep?

Sorry, but I'm bumping this. Any new thoughts?