How are trousers' rear waistbands supposed to be made?

josepidal · Sep 20, 2007

I have some tailored trousers whose waistbands look like the above, consisting of two pieces joined together with a slight "v" on top though not as pronounced as the "v" in the photo. I have others where there is no "v" and the waistband is sewn all the way to the top.

Is there a difference? Is one method better, or is this purely aesthetic?

Connemara · Sep 20, 2007

A split waistband is generally a bit easier to alter.

edmorel · Sep 20, 2007

I think most Italians do the split, and most British and American don't.

The Pal Zileri's in the pic are made by Incotex and they do the split 99% of the time.

josepidal · Sep 20, 2007

Right, my Incotex trousers have that visible split. I vaguely remember a tailor telling me the split is found mainly in RTW trousers?

edmorel · Sep 20, 2007

Originally Posted by josepidal

Right, my Incotex trousers have that visible split. I vaguely remember a tailor telling me the split is found mainly in RTW trousers?

I think the pants grandmaster Ambrosi does a split also. Iammatt can verify/debunk.

itsstillmatt · Sep 20, 2007

Originally Posted by edmorel

I think the pants grandmaster Ambrosi does a split also. Iammatt can verify/debunk.
debunked, but Despos' are split.

Cantabrigian · Sep 20, 2007

I like a split waistband but don't consider it a particularly important detail.

josepidal · Sep 20, 2007

Why do you like it?

mrphrog · Sep 20, 2007

I think a split waistband:
(1) makes it easier to alter
(2) allows room for expansion after a full meal

josepidal · Sep 21, 2007

So, to confirm, it's purely aesthetic or minimally functional if at all?

summej2 · Sep 21, 2007

My (English) tailor will close the split on belted RTW trousers he alters but he includes them on bespoke suit trousers (which are worn with braces). I think such a split is really only functional on pants that are worn with braces.

dopey · Sep 21, 2007

Originally Posted by edmorel

I think the pants grandmaster Ambrosi does a split also. Iammatt can verify/debunk.

Originally Posted by iammatt

debunked, but Despos' are split.

I am guessing that if Iammatt were to look under the center back beltloop he will see that grandmaster Ambrosi does indeed employ a split waistband on his trousers. Since the interior lining is done slightly differently on some pairs, looking on the inside isn't the best way to tell.

Despos · Sep 21, 2007

The split gives a bit of ease when bending, sitting or moving. Without it the trouser waistband would stretch from the stress of your waist expanding when wearing the trouser.
It does not make altering or adjusting easier. If anything it adds a bit of work and adds a step or two in finishing.
Looks better too. IMO

kolecho · Sep 21, 2007

All my bespoke trousers have split waistband. The give is what it is good for.

itsstillmatt · Sep 21, 2007

Originally Posted by dopey

I am guessing that if Iammatt were to look under the center back beltloop he will see that grandmaster Ambrosi does indeed employ a split waistband on his trousers. Since the interior lining is done slightly differently on some pairs, looking on the inside isn't the best way to tell.
Well, the waistband is split, as in two piece, but it does not have the open split that others have. I thought we were talking about the latter, not the former. Both Ambrosi and Rubinacci's trousers have the split completely sewn shut, and then, as you say, a belt loop directly in the middle of the seam.

How are trousers' rear waistbands supposed to be made?

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