Your Opinion: a suit jacket without canvas? without lining?

[TippTopp]

I'm designing an evening wear jacket that's casual, soft, yet elegant. Think a cross between a sport jacket and a smoking jacket. The material is dark lustrous silk velvet with large, brushed stainless steel caps. This is bespoke tailored based on an original design.

I'm toying with the idea of making it without canvas and unlined. This will make it both lighter and also less stiff, more shirt-like. An alternative would be to have it lined but without canvas.

Do you have any experience with jackets that have no canvas or lining? I know that Comme des Garçons made some models in recent years, but I know few people who wear them.
Will appreciate all of your comments and thoughts.

Thanks,

TT

 

[Wicky]

Originally Posted by TippTopp

I'm designing an evening wear jacket that's casual, soft, yet elegant. Think a cross between a sport jacket and a smoking jacket. The material is dark lustrous silk velvet with large, brushed stainless steel caps. This is bespoke tailored based on an original design.

I'm toying with the idea of making it without canvas and unlined. This will make it both lighter and also less stiff, more shirt-like. An alternative would be to have it lined but without canvas.

Do you have any experience with jackets that have no canvas or lining? I know that Comme des Garçons made some models in recent years, but I know few people who wear them.
Will appreciate all of your comments and thoughts.

Thanks,

TT

As a matter of fact, I do and this is not so rare as you may think. I have a Sartorio Napoli (when Sartorio was still owned by Attolini) made baby cashmere summer jacket which is totally unconstructed, no canvas and unlined and, indeed, it wears like a shirt and you almost do not notice it. I love it and its one of my favorites to wear during summer season. I believe Borrelli and Sartorio Partenopea (both also from Napoli) also have this type of jackets.

When properly made it looks awesome.

 

[JayJay]

I've seen unlined summer-weight dinner jackets in shops. They all looked nice, and would be great for this time of year.

 

[TippTopp]

Thanks, these pointers are very helpful!

Without lining and canvass, what provides structure in these jacket, if anything? Is it thicker wool? Weaving?

 

[Sator]

These are called shirt jackets. They are really only for casual wear. The only people to wear them as evening dress are waiters, whose coats are made up more simply to save on costs. You can also put a haircloth chestpiece in and omit the canvas. Be careful, as a structureless homemade garment can look like something "mother made me".

 

[Tarmac]

I've been looking for something like this (within budget) for some time, basically it's cut on a sportcoat pattern, but constructed almost like a sweater. Perhaps silk/cashmere blend, or some other lightweight wool. Still looking

 

[TippTopp]

I agree, I don't think that an unstructured silk jacket would look very good.

In my case, we've already created the shell and we can see that it falls nicely. This, of course, is due to the fact that the silk velvet is s a fairly heavy, dense fabric.

My main concern is whether it'll keep its shape in the future, and whether we risk heavier wear on the fabric due to the lack of lining.