Yet another suit critique

[RogerC]

Hi everyone I also recently had my first MTM suit done, and would appreciate any constructive criticism. Apologies for the bad lighting, can post other pics if necessary. Thanks!

 

[Matt S]

The back could be cleaned up a bit, but over all it looks great. Who made it?

 

[RogerC]

Senli, in Beijing. I am beginning to build up a wardrobe, but still limited by junior academic income. So it's kind of hard to find a tailor within a price range that I can afford. Nonetheless, I would like some advice on how to steer him a bit further, beginning with this suit. Getting suits tailored is always a process, right?

 

[taxgenius]

Not sure if the sleeves need to be steamed or whether the pitch is off. Either way, I don't think any MTM place would be willing to correct sleeve pitch.

 

[RogerC]

It could very well be that they need a steam, I've been travelling with the suit and haven't had time to drop it off at the cleaners yet.

 

[Watchaholic]

Is it too tight? Your MTM suit or any suit for that matter should be the last thing that makes you look like you have love handles IMHO!

 

[Eight]

Is the jacket closed and buttoned in the second (from the side) picture?

 

[RogerC]

Originally Posted by Watchaholic

Is it too tight? Your MTM suit or any suit for that matter should be the last thing that makes you look like you have love handles IMHO!
I do not have the feeling it is overly tight. I do have a bit of a tummy, though, but working on reducing it.

Originally Posted by Eight

Is the jacket closed and buttoned in the second (from the side) picture?
Yes.

 

[RogerC]

Some extra pictures of a lighter grey jacket Senli did for me, on the same measurements (and one fitting), because this shows things better than navy blue. I only can't explain what's up with the sleevehead. When I look at it in the mirror, with arms relaxed, it is completely smooth, but I can't get it on a picture like that. And it came in the same suitcase as the other one, and also needs a pressing.

 

[butterflystyle]

It makes you look like Donald Trump. I don't think that's a good thing.

 

[bowtielover]

There is a slight roll in the back which is a simple fix, the rest of the jacket looks great as well as the 2nd coat.

 

[RogerC]

Originally Posted by bowtielover

There is a slight roll in the back which is a simple fix, the rest of the jacket looks great as well as the 2nd coat.

Sorry for the newbie question, but how would I instruct the tailor to get rid of that roll?

 

[Douglas]

Originally Posted by RogerC

Sorry for the newbie question, but how would I instruct the tailor to get rid of that roll?

You tell him, "Hey Tailor - get rid of that roll."

OK, so I'm being a bit of a jerk with that response, but it's true. Your tailor should know what he's doing. If he doesn't know what he's doing, you shouldn't be using him.

This counts double if you don't know what you're doing either, and have to ask on the Internet what to tell him. The blind leading the blind typically only leads to disastrous results.

 

[haganah]

Are you guys referring to the two rolls running along the back of each of his shoulder blades?

I thought that was a function of movement - ie if you want to not rip your jacket when lifting your arms, you need that. And the way to get rid of it is to shorten the shoulder line or something like that - basically not an easy fix, or at least not a cheap one.

Edit: Maybe you mean just tightening up the center of the back a bit, which is doable. I am assuming he's not wearing a blousy shirt that's bunching up back there of course.

 

[bowtielover]

Originally Posted by RogerC

Sorry for the newbie question, but how would I instruct the tailor to get rid of that roll?

Just go to any tailor and point out the issue with the garment and they will know exactly what to do. at least any accomplished tailor will know.