Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[VintageZealot]

After whitening the 1930s Nunn Bush Gotham white bucks (Nunn Bucks as I've nicknamed them) over the winter they're finally ready to be worn now that it's spring.

These were made on the "Gotham" last, which I have seen in advertisements dating between 1933 and 1937. I have also included a 1936 Nunn Bush ad with a very similar pair of shoes. With that information and the narrow waist and closed channel stitching I think it's safe to say that these are from the 1930s, making them the oldest pair of shoes I have and they're still very wearable. The original rubber heels are still as soft as much newer shoes I have from the 90s, some of the rubber heels on my 40s/50s shoes have hardened compared to this pair.

Semi-related dark trivia, I have read before that John Dillinger was wearing a pair of Nunn Bush white bucks when he was gunned down by the FBI in 1934. I doubt they were still white after that, at least not as white as this pair is now, but they may have been a similar shoe if that's true.

Since these have been worn you can see how the closed channel stitching was done, interesting to see.

Very faint Nunn Bush logo.

No gap, no rub, no bulge! Not quite true on this pair as they are a 10.5 A which is a bit narrow for me, the gap just gets pushed forward away from the reinforced heel area instead.

What remains of the size markings.

Lastly, the 1936 ad featuring a similar pair to this.

 

[sam67]

After whitening the 1930s Nunn Bush Gotham white bucks (Nunn Bucks as I've nicknamed them) over the winter they're finally ready to be worn now that it's spring.

These were made on the "Gotham" last, which I have seen in advertisements dating between 1933 and 1937. I have also included a 1936 Nunn Bush ad with a very similar pair of shoes. With that information and the narrow waist and closed channel stitching I think it's safe to say that these are from the 1930s, making them the oldest pair of shoes I have and they're still very wearable. The original rubber heels are still as soft as much newer shoes I have from the 90s, some of the rubber heels on my 40s/50s shoes have hardened compared to this pair.

Semi-related dark trivia, I have read before that John Dillinger was wearing a pair of Nunn Bush white bucks when he was gunned down by the FBI in 1934. I doubt they were still white after that, at least not as white as this pair is now, but they may have been a similar shoe if that's true.
View attachment 1952127
View attachment 1952129
View attachment 1952131
View attachment 1952133
View attachment 1952135
View attachment 1952137
Since these have been worn you can see how the closed channel stitching was done, interesting to see.
View attachment 1952139
Very faint Nunn Bush logo.
View attachment 1952141
No gap, no rub, no bulge! Not quite true on this pair as they are a 10.5 A which is a bit narrow for me, the gap just gets pushed forward away from the reinforced heel area instead.
View attachment 1952143
What remains of the size markings.
View attachment 1952145
Lastly, the 1936 ad featuring a similar pair to this.
View attachment 1952147

I have some old NB too (1950s). But I’ll probably hold out till Memorial Day- I’m in the Southeast US. And anyway, it’s been mild. Hard for me to think summer under 85F. Old pic-

 

[2Deuce2]

Ralph Lauren shell or Golden Harvest for graduation ceremony? View attachment 1952011

She’ll!

 

[smfdoc]

Hi

I have the same shoes, and strive to have mine look as good as yours... I haven't succeeded...

Question/Request: A quick run-down on your cleaning/caring/shining protocol/regimen, products you use, etc?

Peace.

Thanks and I am happy to share. First, it REALLY helps to have the good fortune to have purchased shoes with some great looking shell. In this case, the left shoe was stellar and the right shoe was a little hazy in comparison. I do the following things.

- Remove the laces and Clean the shoe by brushing with a stiff bristle brush and then wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. I use pig bristle. Be sure to clean the tongue of the shoe as they never get attention.
- Apply a sparing amount of Venetian Shoe Cream and allow to dry. Remove the VSC with a slightly damp cloth and a brush to remove any accumulations that did not wipe off. Then use a horse hair brush to shine and then buff with a dry cloth.
- As a final step with this pair I attempted to help the slightly hazy pair by using neutral Collonil 1909. Very sparing application, just enough to see that the leather has some new material on it. Allow to dry, then horse hair brush, followed by buffing.

I always go over shoes before I wear them. A horse hair brush to touch up the shine. If needed, I will also do an application of Collonil. I want them to look their best if I wear them all day. At the end of the day I insert the shoe trees, hit them with a horse hair brush and put them back in the shoe bags.

 

[Nobleprofessor]

I have a very special pair of 1978 Florsheim 93631 Golden Harvest for sale. They are 10.5D. I bought them and then they were expertly recrafted by Wyatt and Dad. I found another pair that fit me better. The uppers look great. They have new JR Soles, and heels, and even new midsole and new welts with new white welt stitching. No cracks. Very nice. Because I invested so much, I’m asking $475 shipped in CONUS. These are not impossible to find, but they are certainly hard to find in this condition. I understand this is not a bargain price, but the work done was pricey and done incredibly well.

They are unworn since the recraft

 

[memoriastoica]

I have a very special pair of 1978 Florsheim 93631 Golden Harvest for sale. They are 10.5D. I bought them and then they were expertly recrafted by Wyatt and Dad. I found another pair that fit me better. The uppers look great. They have new JR Soles, and heels, and even new midsole and new welts with new white welt stitching. No cracks. Very nice. Because I invested so much, I’m asking $475 shipped in CONUS. These are not impossible to find, but they are certainly hard to find in this condition. I understand this is not a bargain price, but the work done was pricey and done incredibly well.

They are unworn since the recraft

View attachment 1952281 View attachment 1952283 View attachment 1952285 View attachment 1952287 View attachment 1952289 View attachment 1952291 View attachment 1952293 View attachment 1952295

Nice pair. What size fits you better than a 10.5 D?

 

[Nobleprofessor]

Nice pair. What size fits you better than a 10.5 D?

I can wear 10.5D in some. But, 11C is the best.

 

[JFWR]

....

After whitening the 1930s Nunn Bush Gotham white bucks (Nunn Bucks as I've nicknamed them) over the winter they're finally ready to be worn now that it's spring.

These were made on the "Gotham" last, which I have seen in advertisements dating between 1933 and 1937. I have also included a 1936 Nunn Bush ad with a very similar pair of shoes. With that information and the narrow waist and closed channel stitching I think it's safe to say that these are from the 1930s, making them the oldest pair of shoes I have and they're still very wearable. The original rubber heels are still as soft as much newer shoes I have from the 90s, some of the rubber heels on my 40s/50s shoes have hardened compared to this pair.

Semi-related dark trivia, I have read before that John Dillinger was wearing a pair of Nunn Bush white bucks when he was gunned down by the FBI in 1934. I doubt they were still white after that, at least not as white as this pair is now, but they may have been a similar shoe if that's true.
View attachment 1952127
View attachment 1952129
View attachment 1952131
View attachment 1952133
View attachment 1952135
View attachment 1952137
Since these have been worn you can see how the closed channel stitching was done, interesting to see.
View attachment 1952139
Very faint Nunn Bush logo.
View attachment 1952141
No gap, no rub, no bulge! Not quite true on this pair as they are a 10.5 A which is a bit narrow for me, the gap just gets pushed forward away from the reinforced heel area instead.
View attachment 1952143
What remains of the size markings.
View attachment 1952145
Lastly, the 1936 ad featuring a similar pair to this.
View attachment 1952147

....Screw you, you got Dillinger Shoes. I want to punch you in the face for how much I want these shoes.

God damn these big, fat feet of mine.

 

[memoriastoica]

Maiden voyage (at least for me) for these Allen Edmonds MacNeils in polished cobbler, courtesy of @ccpl14 !

 

[CWOyaji]

Out walking around in my 50 year old Alden 990s, and it occurred to me that if I had to choose one only pair of vintage shoes to hold onto, it would probably be this one. They’re so well made and versatile.

 

[suitforcourt]

I have a very special pair of 1978 Florsheim 93631 Golden Harvest for sale. They are 10.5D. I bought them and then they were expertly recrafted by Wyatt and Dad. I found another pair that fit me better. The uppers look great. They have new JR Soles, and heels, and even new midsole and new welts with new white welt stitching. No cracks. Very nice. Because I invested so much, I’m asking $475 shipped in CONUS. These are not impossible to find, but they are certainly hard to find in this condition. I understand this is not a bargain price, but the work done was pricey and done incredibly well.

They are unworn since the recraft

View attachment 1952281 View attachment 1952283 View attachment 1952285 View attachment 1952287 View attachment 1952289 View attachment 1952291 View attachment 1952293 View attachment 1952295

Thankfully not my size. But these are phenomenal, especially after a rebuild by Wyatt's team. They are top notch cobblers.

 

[ZePrez]

Thanks and I am happy to share. First, it REALLY helps to have the good fortune to have purchased shoes with some great looking shell. In this case, the left shoe was stellar and the right shoe was a little hazy in comparison. I do the following things.

- Remove the laces and Clean the shoe by brushing with a stiff bristle brush and then wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. I use pig bristle. Be sure to clean the tongue of the shoe as they never get attention.
- Apply a sparing amount of Venetian Shoe Cream and allow to dry. Remove the VSC with a slightly damp cloth and a brush to remove any accumulations that did not wipe off. Then use a horse hair brush to shine and then buff with a dry cloth.
- As a final step with this pair I attempted to help the slightly hazy pair by using neutral Collonil 1909. Very sparing application, just enough to see that the leather has some new material on it. Allow to dry, then horse hair brush, followed by buffing.

I always go over shoes before I wear them. A horse hair brush to touch up the shine. If needed, I will also do an application of Collonil. I want them to look their best if I wear them all day. At the end of the day I insert the shoe trees, hit them with a horse hair brush and put them back in the shoe bags.

Thank you. I don't have a pig bristle shoe brush. Time to order one or two... Any specific recommendation?
My goto have been Bick 4 or Lexol Neat's-foot Oil, I will however order the VSC, one more weapon to my cleaning arsenal.

Thanks again.

Peace.

 

[donkeyhoatie]

Hi folks. Long-time lurker, first-time poster. Hoping you can help me out on something.

Nabbed these shell 1979 Florsheim Kenmoor 93606 models in 12D while I was out shopping, hoping they'd fit my 11.5D feet. They do, but even with my thickest socks, I'm still sliding around in them. So, it looks like I've got to move them along.

The thing is, I have no idea if they're desirable or what they're worth. Any idea on what a reasonable price expectation is for them? Better yet, anyone here interested in them at a fair price? No idea what they're worth and eBay prices are all over the place, including the sold versions. Good patina on them, and they cleaned up pretty nicely with some VSC. Still need edge dressing. All things considered, they're in pretty good shape for a 44-year-old pair of shoes.

Any insights you can provide would be great. Thanks!

 

[Nobleprofessor]

Thanks and I am happy to share. First, it REALLY helps to have the good fortune to have purchased shoes with some great looking shell. In this case, the left shoe was stellar and the right shoe was a little hazy in comparison. I do the following things.

- Remove the laces and Clean the shoe by brushing with a stiff bristle brush and then wipe down with a slightly damp cloth. I use pig bristle. Be sure to clean the tongue of the shoe as they never get attention.
- Apply a sparing amount of Venetian Shoe Cream and allow to dry. Remove the VSC with a slightly damp cloth and a brush to remove any accumulations that did not wipe off. Then use a horse hair brush to shine and then buff with a dry cloth.
- As a final step with this pair I attempted to help the slightly hazy pair by using neutral Collonil 1909. Very sparing application, just enough to see that the leather has some new material on it. Allow to dry, then horse hair brush, followed by buffing.

I always go over shoes before I wear them. A horse hair brush to touch up the shine. If needed, I will also do an application of Collonil. I want them to look their best if I wear them all day. At the end of the day I insert the shoe trees, hit them with a horse hair brush and put them back in the shoe bags.

That is a great description of the method. I think the damp cloth before horsehair brushing makes a big difference.

 

[memoriastoica]

Nice pair. What size fits you better than a 10.5 D?

Same! Maybe we can find some trading/selling opportunities moving forward.