Vintage Dress shoe appreciation, tips, maintenance and advice

[wasmisterfu]

Spot on @wasmisterfu.

Thank you sir; comes from a place of total frustration. There are a number of great items I’ve passed up on recently, because I just don’t have the patience to try and get a seller down to the 1/4 of asking price that’d be required to make it a reasonable deal.

 

[wasmisterfu]

If I wasn't married, getting banished to the Netherlands would be ok with me. So. Many. Hot. Tall. Blondes.
...

 

[CWOyaji]

Total vintage violation, but I couldn't resist the urge to make my first foray into the world of the Norwegian Split Toe. Which is different than camel toe, but equally eye-catching. The Alden 964 in calf, in my size (13 D, always down to trade). Seriously, if you thrift or somehow find something interesting in my size, please let me know.

Unblemished uppers.

Barely worn double oak soles.

Bright shiny branding inside. You had me at $125 BIN and $8 shipping.

NST Background: http://shoegazing.se/english/2017/10/29/history-the-split-toe-derby/
This blogger's visit to the Crockett & Jones factory is terrific too: http://shoegazing.se/english/2017/06/18/report-crocket-jones-factory/

 

[friendlygoz]

Thing is, I’m getting tired of clueless sellers who think that because they have a shoe that shined up okay, but is half-way to a resole, that they can charge 75% of current list for a similar new shoe. No seller, your shoe is not worth list -25%. It’s not like they can’t see where other similar shoes are priced at, but they’re just obstinate. The market will pay what it’ll pay, so why waste everyone’s time pricing it at absurd levels. I had one seller where it took ~6 months and multiple relistings before they finally agreed to accept a reasonable price. Hell, if I think it’s reasonably priced, I’ll just BIN it right then and there. And I get it if a seller wants to price it on the high-side to give themselves room for negotiation, but a lot of pricing lately is just ridiculous.

You mean like this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-BLACK-...rentrq:9516b5501660ab45200a9e73fff71d45|iid:1

I wrote and asked if accidentally put an extra zero. I told him the price seemed high. He wrote back, saying that these regularly go for over $300. He sarcastically said he was sorry the price was not to my liking.

 

[Bespoke Barrister]

A tale of woe and sadness. I received my 1989 Florsheim Penfield’s (20308). Over the years, I’ve generally had excellent luck with my vintage eBay’d shoes and those I’ve acquired online. But this pair is a different matter.

They had a bad case of mold/mildew from being stored in a non-climate controlled basement or storage area. I immediately went ape on them and isopropyl’d the hell out of the interiors and exteriors... and then I used Clorox disinfectant wipes inside and out (several times). Then I saddle soaped them thoroughly followed by two applications of AE Conditioner Cleaner. Then I polished them with AE cream polish. The result:

They look gorgeous; nearly a dead ringer for a similar vintage (1987) AE Fifth Avenue, but with 7 eyelets (which, prior to 86, the Fifth Avenue also had 7).

Visually, besides the 7 eyelets, the only difference between the two shoes is the Florsheim cap-toe has three, rather than two, rows of stitching and the AE is built on a 360 welt, rather than 270. The last used by Florsheim for the Penfield is visually identical to the 65 last used by AE for the Fifth Avenue.

The Florsheim’s details are extremely well executed; the channeled and hidden welt top-stitch is very clean and the welt trimming is super-tight, just like with the AE and in keeping with the 80’s aesthetic of trying to look sleek (and not advertising their GYW construction). The upper stitching, as with all pre-mid 90’s Florsheim’s is super tight and clean (nobody did upper stitch detailing better than Florsheim).

It’s only on closer inspection that it becomes clear the Florsheim is the less expensive shoe; the AE’s are all leather, the upper leather is slightly thicker and of better quality (though the Florsheim’s exterior leather is very good, the stuff AE used at the time is better than virtually anything I’ve seen before or since from any brand). It’s on the inside that the Florsheim is a bigger step down: fiberboard insoles, with somewhat thin cotton drill linings, aren't comparable to the expensive all leather treatment of the Fifth Ave’s (though from a practical standpoint, I prefer the drill to leather, especially in the summer). It’s a shame they didn’t do an Imperial or Royal Imperial version of the Penfield (or maybe they did... @davidVC ?).

A bigger shame? I don’t know if these fantastic looking Florsheim’s will ever be wearable. Despite slathering them with biocides inside and out and cleaning them thoroughly, I’m not sure I’ll ever get that basement mildew smell out of them (it seems embedded into the leather). I’m open to suggestions as I’ve never had to address such a serious problem before. I’m open to any suggestions from the thread braintrust. I’d love to save these if at all possible.

You should try a cheap UV lamp type shoe sterilizer. The ultraviolet light itself will kill some of the microbes, but it also creates a small amount of ozone. The ozone will also sterilize, but more importantly it will deodorize. The trick is to make sure the concentration of ozone gets high enough by putting the shoe inside a small box (or bag I suppose) and then running the UV lamp for multiple cycles. The concentration of ozone can get surprisingly high, so out of an abundance of caution don't seal yourself in the same room.

 

[Shoonoob]

You mean like this?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/VTG-BLACK-Florsheim-Imperial-Kenmoor-V-CLEAT-5-NAIL-92604-Long-WINGTIP-9D/332838067884?_trkparms=aid=111001&algo=REC.SEED&ao=1&asc=20160908105057&meid=b2096dcf8f8c4735b5a94d63a3a71414&pid=100675&rk=2&rkt=15&sd=263915931066&itm=332838067884&_trksid=p2481888.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci:da92f184-d4f1-11e8-aa1e-74dbd180ce54|parentrq:9516b5501660ab45200a9e73fff71d45|iid:1

I wrote and asked if accidentally put an extra zero. I told him the price seemed high. He wrote back, saying that these regularly go for over $300. He sarcastically said he was sorry the price was not to my liking.

You did not look where the seller was located. That is common Illinois math.

 

[M635Guy]

I hate the sellers who counter offer with a price that is $1 less than the original. Talk about insulting.

I guess I'm twitchy. I try to be very realistic with anything I'm putting a BIN price on and a lowball offer is likely to get zero response from me. I don't generally have trouble selling stuff though...

 

[suitforcourt]

I guess I'm twitchy. I try to be very realistic with anything I'm putting a BIN price on and a lowball offer is likely to get zero response from me. I don't generally have trouble selling stuff though...

You sound like the kind of seller I like. If your items sell quickly, then it means your prices are realistic.

A pair of basically NOS shell Florsheim sold in less than 4 minutes on @davidVC 's list for 79. Seller probably could've listed at double the price and still make a quick sale. But sometimes it's about quick turnover I guess.

I consign through @mariusscott who seems to have a good base line and stuff is usually sold. Loafers seem to be a problem, so I don't look for those anymore unless exotic skin or something like Prada. Certain brands still grab attention.

 

[davidVC]

Total vintage violation, but I couldn't resist the urge to make my first foray into the world of the Norwegian Split Toe. Which is different than camel toe, but equally eye-catching. The Alden 964 in calf, in my size (13 D, always down to trade). Seriously, if you thrift or somehow find something interesting in my size, please let me know.
View attachment 1056874
Unblemished uppers.
View attachment 1056875
Barely worn double oak soles.
View attachment 1056876
Bright shiny branding inside. You had me at $125 BIN and $8 shipping.
View attachment 1056877
NST Background: http://shoegazing.se/english/2017/10/29/history-the-split-toe-derby/
This blogger's visit to the Crockett & Jones factory is terrific too: http://shoegazing.se/english/2017/06/18/report-crocket-jones-factory/

I thought those were a great deal. Maybe worn once or twice. They look to have some old polish patina which should clean easily.

 

[wasmisterfu]

You did not look where the seller was located. That is common Illinois math.

And remember, it’s pronounced ill-ah-noise.

 

[wasmisterfu]

I guess I'm twitchy. I try to be very realistic with anything I'm putting a BIN price on and a lowball offer is likely to get zero response from me. I don't generally have trouble selling stuff though...

If it’s reasonably priced, I just hit the BIN. If it’s a bit high, I subtract shipping (that’s worked every time I’ve tried it). In fact, anytime an item has been within the realm of reasonable, I’ve quickly struck a deal.

The only time it’s a problem is when a seller has an absurd price (double or more what the item is worth). I doubt anyone on SF falls into that category of seller.

 

[mariusscott]

You sound like the kind of seller I like. If your items sell quickly, then it means your prices are realistic.

A pair of basically NOS shell Florsheim sold in less than 4 minutes on @davidVC 's list for 79. Seller probably could've listed at double the price and still make a quick sale. But sometimes it's about quick turnover I guess.

I consign through @mariusscott who seems to have a good base line and stuff is usually sold. Loafers seem to be a problem, so I don't look for those anymore unless exotic skin or something like Prada. Certain brands still grab attention.

To second the general consensus on here, it blows my mind with some sellers online. In the world of shoes that I usually flip I know some of the listings by heart because they have been there FOR YEARS. And yes trying to educate or deal with some sellers, I would rather you decline an offer than counter at $1 or $5 less. I generally try and price my items at far more reasonable levels, but as a seller also frustrates to see someone offer a 50% BIN price and then counter at $5 more, on a $150 item that is wasting my time, just my 2 cents worth

 

[eTrojan]

Sir, you must know by now I’m a huge hypocrite. Do as I say, not as I do. That said, I’m seriously torn, as one of my great white whales is sitting on the bay.

Understand the white whales.

I’m watching one pair right now that is one width too narrow on the model’s last, but in a hard-to-find leather. They’re priced a little high, but not unreasonably so. If it were the right width, I’d be more generous in my offer. But paying more than I’d really like for a shoe that may not fit is a struggle.

 

[2Deuce2]

Some before/after shots of Florsheims in 12 B. Thought I’d try a bit smaller width, as their Shell and LWB in 12 D are generous for me. The length is perfect, a bit tight in width, maybe I’ll get a stretcher! The heels and soles were fully replaced years ago - notice the V Cleated heels.

Did a round of Lexol cleaner followed by VSC.

 

[smfdoc]

My terrible Ebay story was for a pair of new Alden boots in a killer style. He wanted full retail, but allowed offers. He never responded to any offers, all of which were reasonable. The boot was initially seen in February and I finally bought them in September when Ebay had a 15% off sale, which got them down to where I had previously bid.

The purchase was made, and after 4 days they were still not shipped. I messaged the guy and asked for them to be shipped out. He responded by cancelling the sale and refunding the money. It earned him a negative review, and I still do not have a pair of Indy boots.....yet.