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Vestimenta Suit Quality

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by nmoraitis, Jun 18, 2006.

  1. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    Sounds like a pretty solid deal if it's one of their canvassed models. Where'd you find it?
     
  2. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Senior member

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    I personally don't like Vestimenta. They cut a long jacket. The drape is weird, too -- encases my body like a sausage. YMMV, of course.
     
  3. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    Sounds like a pretty solid deal if it's one of their canvassed models. Where'd you find it?


    It's at Barney's Warehouse, and I'm pretty sure it's canvassed, based on the pinch test above the breast pocket and on the lapels.
     
  4. skalogre

    skalogre Senior member

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    If you like the look, that is a decent deal. I have found that I don't really like the look of Armani-style shoulders on me - is that one similar? I have come across a Vestimenta sportcoat (too big for me) which I flipped on eBay, looked very nice indeed as far as material and construction are concerned.
     
  5. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    If you like the look, that is a decent deal. I have found that I don't really like the look of Armani-style shoulders on me - is that one similar? I have come across a Vestimenta sportcoat (too big for me) which I flipped on eBay, looked very nice indeed as far as material and construction are concerned.


    I'm not sure what Armani shoulders are. These are, as noted, quite soft and almost Neapolitan feeling. Not super-square or Roman-style. I've told myself I'm going to give it till the end of the week, when I may in any case have a clearer idea whether i have the money to splash out anyway.
     
  6. skalogre

    skalogre Senior member

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    I'm not sure what Armani shoulders are. These are, as noted, quite soft and almost Neapolitan feeling. Not super-square or Roman-style. I've told myself I'm going to give it till the end of the week, when I may in any case have a clearer idea whether i have the money to splash out anyway.

    I'd call them soft but droopy - in my plebeian eyes they look looser and less elegant than Neapolitan suit shoulders I have seen.
     
  7. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    I'd call them soft but droopy - in my plebeian eyes they look looser and less elegant than Neapolitan suit shoulders I have seen.


    I don't think this model is droopy, but YMMV, obviously. I pulled the trigger today. $350+tax is just about as cheap as you're ever likely to pay for a suit worth wearing. The lapels, on further examination, are fused on the underside, but the chestpiece is not. The pants are flat-front. Now I have to get it altered. Has anyone used Barney's in-house service?
     
  8. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    I haven't used Barney's in-house service, but the only place I would use in-house tailors is Bergdorf, which has a great reputation for it.

    Take it to a good alterations tailor like Wilfred.
     
  9. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    I haven't used Barney's in-house service, but the only place I would use in-house tailors is Bergdorf, which has a great reputation for it.

    Take it to a good alterations tailor like Wilfred.


    What's Wilfred's address again? You have any ideas what his hours are? I seem to recall he was somewhere like 23rd St.?
     
  10. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    I forget the number, but it's 23rd between 5th and 6th, south side of the street. East of Home Depot. You'll see a sign. No idea on the hours, but I think they were pretty normal. Number should be in this thread somewhere.

    http://styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=11723&
     
  11. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    I don't think this model is droopy, but YMMV, obviously. I pulled the trigger today. $350+tax is just about as cheap as you're ever likely to pay for a suit worth wearing. The lapels, on further examination, are fused on the underside, but the chestpiece is not. The pants are flat-front. Now I have to get it altered. Has anyone used Barney's in-house service?
    I thought that if any part of a jacket was going to be canvassed, it would be the lapels. Why would someone fuse the lapels and stitch the chestpiece?
     
  12. dah328

    dah328 Senior member

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    btw, Wilfred's is at 18. W. 23rd. Yahoo Yellow Pages has the phone number and all that...
     
  13. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    btw, Wilfred's is at 18. W. 23rd. Yahoo Yellow Pages has the phone number and all that...


    Yellow pages, shmellow pages. [​IMG]


    Thanks a lot, everyone.
     
  14. retronotmetro

    retronotmetro Senior member

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    I thought that if any part of a jacket was going to be canvassed, it would be the lapels. Why would someone fuse the lapels and stitch the chestpiece?

    Plenty of suits are made that way. I'm wearing a J. Crew cotton suit today that has a floating chest piece despite the use of fusibles in the quarters and lapels.

    Just because the rest of the suit is fused doesn't mean the chest piece has to be--there's not a lot of stitching required to put it in place. Or it may be fused at the edges and float across the center. That's why I don't think the "pinch test" is particularly useful on the chest. A better test is to reach into the breast pocket and poke around at the underside of the shell fabric to see whether there are fusibles and where they stop.
     
  15. grimslade

    grimslade Senior member

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    I only wrote what I did because there was some controversy over whether Vestimentas were fused or canvased. This specimen is fused in the lapels, on their undersides. You can clearly feel where the fusing begins under the lapels, and equally clearly feel that the chest piece itself is unfused.

    The lapels of this suit are not pick-stitched. This would seem to be the obvious reason to fuse the lapels--it provides some body to the lapels without requiring the handwork of pick-stitching them. Meanwhile, the unfused chestpiece still allows for a freer drape and no risk of bubbling across the chest.
     

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