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Vaish/Indian tailor

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by chorse123, Nov 11, 2004.

  1. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Another update on the Vaish trial run. I hadn't yet received the samples, so I sent a follow-up e-mail. Mr. Vaish said he was waiting for some of the samples from his suppliers--as they did not have them in stock--and that they have been very busy, which is unusual for this time of the year. He said he will be sending the samples he has on Monday.

    I've decided, provided the fabric is good enough, to order a trial suit. I'll keep updates coming, with pictures when useful.
     
  2. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Delays delays delays. Patience is undeniably a necessity when it comes to this process. Vaish e-mailed me on Monday to say that the samples were going out. This was a week later than I expected, but I'm not complaining. It does make me think I may be better off ordering a summer suit than a spring/fall one when they arrive.

    Can anyone recommend a central London tailor who will be willing to take detailed measurements for a fee?
     
  3. Razcule

    Razcule New Member

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    My wife went to prep school with Mr. Vaish's daughter and she tells me his shop is one of the best in New Delhi by reputation.

    By the way, we were married last year outside New Delhi, and I visited a tailor favored by the gents in her family called Khazana, at the Taj Mahal Hotel (Taj Mansingh), the owner's first name Ranjit.  I had a blue/black Prince of Wales three button English suit and black Jodhpur suit made, both very inexpensive and very satisfactory.  Quick turnaround as well.  Bought the fabric however at some shop in nearby Khan market, name unknown.

    Jodhpurs, by the way, are a fun and useful alternative to a tux to have in the West for the the fellows in our party who got one.  You need the appropriate collar-less shirt, a good off-the-rack source in ND is Heritage in South Extension, also very good for silk dress shirts.
     
  4. bespoke_newbie

    bespoke_newbie Member

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    Dear Razcule,

    As I'll be visiting Delhi in a couple of weeks, I'll be more than interested in having more information on the tailor you described (price, where to find him,..). Other info on tailor/shirtmakers and where to find good fabrics for shirts/suits are also welcome ;-)

    By the way, I'm also looking for a good midrange hotel, any help really appreciated.

    Cheers,
    B
     
  5. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    I used to stay at the park royal (which has since been aquired by interconti) and then the grand hyatt. both are good (the hyatt is much better), but I can't tell you if they are in your range.
     
  6. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Fabric samples, ten of them, arrived in London this morning. I'll post pictures tomorrow evening.

    In the meantime, can anyone recommend a tailor in London who will be willing to take my complete measurements?
     
  7. RJman

    RJman Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Still waiting on trews from Kachins. They were to copy a pair of bespoke trousers in every detail and ended up haggling with me over an additional charge to line the trousers. Fabrics I _think_ are Raymond and Reid & Taylor, Super 100s to 130s (of which they have a lot). Reid & Taylor is supposed to be British but they have a big presence here, with the Indian superstar Amitabh Bachchan as their face. I will report once I return to Bushland as I'll be in Delhi when they deliver the trousers. If anyone wants to pay me for a Bollywood starlet's address PM me as one lives upstairs.

    Kachins impressed me with their professionalism in measurements. Let's see how their product is.

    Sri RJman-ji
     
  8. AlanC

    AlanC Senior member

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    An RJWoman, perhaps? [​IMG]
     
  9. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    try the chinese resteraunt above kachins
     
  10. bespoke_newbie

    bespoke_newbie Member

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    Globetrotter, thanks for the tip, these hotels are maybe out of my range but we never know... Do you think it is best to book from India or from the internet or even directly contacting the hotels?


    RJman, as I may be visiting Mumbai also, could you provide some more info on the Kashins please (prices, time needed for the fittings, address...).

    Cheers
     
  11. bespoke_newbie

    bespoke_newbie Member

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    Of course the Bollywood starlet's address is also welcome ;-)
     
  12. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    I honestly don't know, my company kept a block of rooms at the hotels semi-permanently. try to contact them directly, and then check if your travel agent can do better. if you can afford to, stay at the taj mahal in mumbai, it is a real treat.
     
  13. bespoke_newbie

    bespoke_newbie Member

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    I will compare and will not miss the Taj if in Mumbai, thanks.
     
  14. globetrotter

    globetrotter Senior member

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    oh, and eat a meal each in the golden dragon, kyber and bukhara - first 2 in mumbai, last in delhi.
     
  15. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    I've decided on a (for lack of a better word) "dusty" beige linen for my first/sample suit from Vaish. The other fabrics were close, but weren't exactly what I wanted. The dark drown moleskin, for example, was nearly black and would wash me out. The beige linen suit will be for an office in NYC that is a half step or so below formal in summer. It's not the single most useful or versatile suit, I know, but I have summer weight suits in grey tropical wool, dark navy blue with a faint windowpane, and black, and figure this is a good time to get one that varies the bunch. This is what I think I will request. Does anyone have advice or suggested changes? There are a few substantial details about which I'm undecided, partly because I'm not certain what is appropriate for a linen suit. JACKET Single breasted Notched lapel (or peaked?) Medium lapel width Medium high gorge Working lapel buttonhole with flower keep High stance two-button (top button at natural waist) Normal breast pocket height Light to minimal shoulder padding Slightly higher armholes (is it called a scye on the jacket?) Medium waist suppression Medium sleeve tapering Four working sleeve buttons Flapped pockets Ticket pocket if flapped? Side vents Normal length on jacket Quarter lining (bemberg) Fully hand basted (no fusing) TROUSERS Two pairs flat front trousers (or one flat, one double pleats?) Reverse of forward if pleated? Lined to knee Watch pocket in waist band braces buttons and belt loops on-seam pockets I've left out a few minor details (internal pockets, name, etc), but can you think of anything I've missed? What would you suggest for the points on which I'm undecided? And does anyone have links to high-end linen suits on line? Thanks for your help. I plan on posting images of the fabrics tonight (very complicated, unfortunately).
     
  16. bespoke_newbie

    bespoke_newbie Member

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    I would not choose braces for a flat front trouser but...
    For the rest it is really a question of style preference. I think that I would choose a soft SB cut for a linen suit, notch lapels, with maybe a single pleat trouser with a medium rise...but you may be in another mood...

    Is it possible to have more further information on the measurements form they sent you?

    Cheers
     
  17. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Sure, PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it over. It's a Word attachment, and is two pages long I believe. Same goes if anyone else wants it. My contact there has been friendly and helpful so far.
     
  18. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    Quick update:

    I had my measurements for the Vaish suit taken this morning at Sims & Macdonald on Lamb's Conduit Street in Bloomsbury. I called ahead to check if they would do this, and they were more than happy to do so. I offered to pay, then said to not worry about it. I brought a bottle of wine to thank them.

    An older gentleman measured me while a woman cut out a jacket from a chalked length of wool on the work table behind us. He used the form Vaish sent as a guide, but in a few cases drew a pattern and added measurements. He also added some notes: drop rt shoulder 1", s/round back, flat seat.

    My wife is going to take some pictures as a guide for Vaish as well, and I'm sending in my order on Saturday.
     
  19. tiger02

    tiger02 Senior member

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    Somewhere on this board there's a mention of a 'butterfly' lining in a jacket that's appropriate for a summerweight suit. Might be a nice detail to have, if he can do it. Off the top of my head, it was described as two overlapping petals hanging from the shoulders. Sounds nice and breathable.

    How did you go about choosing samples for Vaish to send? Did you ask him for recommendations, he ask what you're looking for?

    Tom
     
  20. chorse123

    chorse123 Senior member

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    The butterfly lining sounds like an interesting idea. I'm going to ask for a simple partial lining and see how that is done before moving onto something more unusual.

    I gave Vaish guidelines of what I wanted, the kind of thing I would say if I walked into the shop. I also specified that I was happy with Indian fabrics, but that the material had to be free from synthetics. I understand India charges high tariffs on imported textiles, so for this suit at least I'll go with domestic material. With my order I am requesting many more fabrics, and for a few am including photos.

    I took pictures of the swatches and will post them tonight or tomorrow.
     

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