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Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by chorse123, Nov 11, 2004.
Of course the Bollywood starlet's address is also welcome ;-)
I honestly don't know, my company kept a block of rooms at the hotels semi-permanently. try to contact them directly, and then check if your travel agent can do better. if you can afford to, stay at the taj mahal in mumbai, it is a real treat.
I will compare and will not miss the Taj if in Mumbai, thanks.
oh, and eat a meal each in the golden dragon, kyber and bukhara - first 2 in mumbai, last in delhi.
I've decided on a (for lack of a better word) "dusty" beige linen for my first/sample suit from Vaish. The other fabrics were close, but weren't exactly what I wanted. The dark drown moleskin, for example, was nearly black and would wash me out. The beige linen suit will be for an office in NYC that is a half step or so below formal in summer. It's not the single most useful or versatile suit, I know, but I have summer weight suits in grey tropical wool, dark navy blue with a faint windowpane, and black, and figure this is a good time to get one that varies the bunch. This is what I think I will request. Does anyone have advice or suggested changes? There are a few substantial details about which I'm undecided, partly because I'm not certain what is appropriate for a linen suit. JACKET Single breasted Notched lapel (or peaked?) Medium lapel width Medium high gorge Working lapel buttonhole with flower keep High stance two-button (top button at natural waist) Normal breast pocket height Light to minimal shoulder padding Slightly higher armholes (is it called a scye on the jacket?) Medium waist suppression Medium sleeve tapering Four working sleeve buttons Flapped pockets Ticket pocket if flapped? Side vents Normal length on jacket Quarter lining (bemberg) Fully hand basted (no fusing) TROUSERS Two pairs flat front trousers (or one flat, one double pleats?) Reverse of forward if pleated? Lined to knee Watch pocket in waist band braces buttons and belt loops on-seam pockets I've left out a few minor details (internal pockets, name, etc), but can you think of anything I've missed? What would you suggest for the points on which I'm undecided? And does anyone have links to high-end linen suits on line? Thanks for your help. I plan on posting images of the fabrics tonight (very complicated, unfortunately).
I would not choose braces for a flat front trouser but...
For the rest it is really a question of style preference. I think that I would choose a soft SB cut for a linen suit, notch lapels, with maybe a single pleat trouser with a medium rise...but you may be in another mood...
Is it possible to have more further information on the measurements form they sent you?
Sure, PM me your e-mail address and I'll send it over. It's a Word attachment, and is two pages long I believe. Same goes if anyone else wants it. My contact there has been friendly and helpful so far.
I had my measurements for the Vaish suit taken this morning at Sims & Macdonald on Lamb's Conduit Street in Bloomsbury. I called ahead to check if they would do this, and they were more than happy to do so. I offered to pay, then said to not worry about it. I brought a bottle of wine to thank them.
An older gentleman measured me while a woman cut out a jacket from a chalked length of wool on the work table behind us. He used the form Vaish sent as a guide, but in a few cases drew a pattern and added measurements. He also added some notes: drop rt shoulder 1", s/round back, flat seat.
My wife is going to take some pictures as a guide for Vaish as well, and I'm sending in my order on Saturday.
Somewhere on this board there's a mention of a 'butterfly' lining in a jacket that's appropriate for a summerweight suit. Might be a nice detail to have, if he can do it. Off the top of my head, it was described as two overlapping petals hanging from the shoulders. Sounds nice and breathable.
How did you go about choosing samples for Vaish to send? Did you ask him for recommendations, he ask what you're looking for?
The butterfly lining sounds like an interesting idea. I'm going to ask for a simple partial lining and see how that is done before moving onto something more unusual.
I gave Vaish guidelines of what I wanted, the kind of thing I would say if I walked into the shop. I also specified that I was happy with Indian fabrics, but that the material had to be free from synthetics. I understand India charges high tariffs on imported textiles, so for this suit at least I'll go with domestic material. With my order I am requesting many more fabrics, and for a few am including photos.
I took pictures of the swatches and will post them tonight or tomorrow.
Here you go. Finally, the swatches I was sent. Please ignore my random notes on the paper: http://img11.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img11...=vaish11ys.png http://img11.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img11...=vaish27qu.png http://img11.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img11...=vaish38ec.png http://img11.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img11...=vaish40cg.png http://img11.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img11...=vaish57lt.png http://img11.exs.cx/my.php?loc=img11...=vaish60lq.png It's not letting me link directly to the hosted pictures for some reason, and I don't have to time to sort it out now. The images are dark, I'm afraid. Cloudy day in london and the flash was blowing out the pictures. Grrr. I picked #7, which is lighter than in the picture. More of a cream and less of a tan.
Great choice. I look forward to the report when it's finished.
Hello. Â Unfortunately don't have a great deal to add to my Jan 16 Post, but hopefully this helps:
Khazana should be in the books in Delhi. Â It's in Taj Mansingh (AKA Taj Mahal) one of the best known hotels in the city. Â I can't find my paperwork from the trip, but I BELIEVE my suits were $100 U.S. or less a piece(.), not including fabric. Â Looking them over now, and using some of the info from this post, I THINK they have a fused lining (lining had been a faint blip on my radar in the past, but have never had my act fully together on the occasions I've visited a tailor to discuss a suits interior). Â But they do have a nice suppleness about them, and are cut and finished in a smart and classic style.
The fabric came from a shopping area very closeby called Khan Market, there are two fabric shops there, one I think called Delhi Cloth House. Â Speak with Mr. Ranjit at Khazana first, he can recommend them, and you can use his discount. Â Ranjit also has fabric onsite.
From my somewhat limited experience in getting custom tailoring, my advice would be to go in knowing pretty much exactly what you want, and, if having it done in a place with a lower cost of living than your home country, endeavor to pay more for the tailoring, not less. Â On the latter count I'm sure you can spend more than Khazana in Delhi, but they are completely trustworthy and satisfactory in my view.
(Incidentally, Taj Mansingh has a nightclub named Rick's with a somewhat stylish and attractive crowd, best from 10:00pm to midnight.)
The shirt shop/haberdasher I mentioned, Heritage, is at South Extension Part One, tel. 011-4623208. Â They probably have made-to-measure as well. Â Some pretty natty stuff.
One last clothing suggestion is Anokhi, in Khan Market, and Santushti. Â Very casual stuff, noteworthy for traditional Indian fabrics (natural dies, block print fabric) on very lightweight cotton, made into somewhat more Westernized clothing. Â Very good if shopping for a women friend as well.
Not a whole lot of perspective on midrange hotels. Â My wife likes Park Hotel, and Ambassador, near Khan Market, less fancy but a good location. Â You can also consider 'guest houses,' Indian parlance for smaller hotels, in Connaught Place or Sundar Nagar, one here is called Jukasso Inn. Â If you have a particular business or agenda it might determine where you want to stay. Â It's high season, but if you can score a deal, Oberoi, Taj Mahal and the slightly less fancy Taj Palace are among the toniest places to stay in Delhi.
Good luck, and enjoy your visit.
Edit: not the right forum.
Thanks lot for all those informations.
I leave for Bangalore tomorrow and will be in Delhi in about 2 weeks so your advices are very appreciated. I still haven't book an hotel in Delhi but thanks to you and Globetrotter, I know have a couple of choices to choose from (think i'm gonna try the nightclub too ;-).
I will for sure have a look at the different shops you mentioned and I'm quite excited to discover amazing indian fabrics. Well, I'm most of all quite excited to discover India because it is an old dream of mine and if I can have some nice bespoke clothes it will be the icing on the cake.
Thanks again for your very helpful answer Razcule, i'm sure to have a great time in Delhi ;-)
I'll be happy to post comments after my trip.
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