Tuxedo Questions

[TimelesStyle]



I just purchased a Luxire Tuxedo Shirt. I really couldn't resist for the money. Hopefully it is as nice as I hope it will be.

So...

Tuxedo -> Zegna Black with Peak Lapels
Tuxedo Shirt -> Luxire
Ushaped Waistcoat and matching silk butterfly bow tie -> Custom
Cumberbund -> Have one in black but hoping to prefer ushaped waistcoat.
Studs -> Have them but could probably upgrade
Shoes -> Undecided and need assistance.

Ivory Dinner Jacket -> Considering purchase. If my regular black tuxedo has peaked lapels should I go with a shawl collar on the ivory dinner jacket over peaked lapels?

Thanks everyone.

If they are within budget, I would, without a doubt, go with these:

http://www.barneys.com/on/demandwar...-Show?pid=503461727&cgid=mens-loafers&index=1

Absolutely love that style for a formal shoe. It has certain elements of the pump/slipper but with what I consider much more masculine lines and is highly polished without having the almost plastic look of most patent shoes.

If that's more than you want to spend, Paul Stuart does a "budget" version, which I also think is quite nice:

http://www.paulstuart.com/product_i...08&MainCatId=14&HEADERMENUID=1&SUBPRODCATID=0

And, of course, if you're thinking "Why would I want cheap, crappy shoes from C&J?!" this is always an option (though I actually much prefer C&J's whole cut design):

http://www.barneys.com/on/demandwar...Show?pid=501587707&cgid=mens-loafers&index=39

As to a second DJ I would also go with a shawl lapel since it's a more typical look for an ivory DJ and it gives you the option of buying a self-faced (no silk) one since the shawl clearly differentiates it as a DJ. Plenty of serviceable OTR options at a variety of price points. I've seen shawl ivory DJs from BB, RL, J Crew and the dept stores.

 

[Bounder]

Regarding shoes, you've got a couple of choices. First, court shoes or balmorals. Court shoes are a bridge too far for me. Having said that, you do have a wider range of "correct" styles than you do with balmorals, e.g. patent or velvet, bows, etc.

Balmorals, correctly speaking, should be in patent leather. They can either be cap toes or whole cuts. Whole cuts are, possibly, slightly more correct but cap toes are perfectly fine. Some people try to convince you that it is also correct to put a really good shine on your Park Avenues. They are lying.

You often see patent leather bluchers for use with formal wear. This is wrong. It came about because formal wear hire shops typically stock only bluchers because they fit a wider variety of feet than do balmorals. But bluchers are less formal than balmorals. So you might as well get balmorals since they only have to fit you rather than a procession of random customers.

As for brands, AE used to make a decent patent whole cut. I don't think they do anymore. If so, you should probably try Pediwear for English shoes. One of the biggest problems with English shoemakers is that they typically make each style in only one width. So you may end up selecting a style and maker based largely on the fact that they make the size you need. I blame the National Health.

 

[TimelesStyle]



Regarding shoes, you've got a couple of choices. First, court shoes or balmorals. Court shoes are a bridge too far for me. Having said that, you do have a wider range of "correct" styles than you do with balmorals, e.g. patent or velvet, bows, etc.

Balmorals, correctly speaking, should be in patent leather. They can either be cap toes or whole cuts. Whole cuts are, possibly, slightly more correct but cap toes are perfectly fine. Some people try to convince you that it is also correct to put a really good shine on your Park Avenues. They are lying.

You often see patent leather bluchers for use with formal wear. This is wrong. It came about because formal wear hire shops typically stock only bluchers because they fit a wider variety of feet than do balmorals. But bluchers are less formal than balmorals. So you might as well get balmorals since they only have to fit you rather than a procession of random customers.

As for brands, AE used to make a decent patent whole cut. I don't think they do anymore. If so, you should probably try Pediwear for English shoes. One of the biggest problems with English shoemakers is that they typically make each style in only one width. So you may end up selecting a style and maker based largely on the fact that they make the size you need. I blame the National Health.

I would agree with your statements about bluchers vs. balmorals with one exception: those balmorals with only two (maybe three) eyelets. I own a two eyelet pair of EG for RL which I wear with BT without a second thought. Since the laces are completely covered by one's trouser leg it has a sleeker overall appearance than a typical blucher with four or five eyelets.

 

[Andy57]

Shoes -> Undecided and need assistance.

Ivory Dinner Jacket -> Considering purchase. If my regular black tuxedo has peaked lapels should I go with a shawl collar on the ivory dinner jacket over peaked lapels?

Thanks everyone.

Shawl collar on an ivory dinner jacket is a great look. It would a be a great change of pace from the peaked lapel black jacket.

Allen Edmunds has good deals on patent leather bluchers, from time to to time. And I recently picked up a pair of Peal & Co patent oxfords from Brooks Brothers (one of their recent sales) for around $175, which I thought was a great deal. So I guess I'm saying you don't have to spend a huge amount of money for patent leather shoes. But you can wear well-polished black cap toes oxfords instead. Only you will notice.

 

[Bounder]



But you can wear well-polished black cap toes oxfords instead. Only you will notice.

On the contrary. I will notice, too.

You are overlooking one of the great joys of these events: Wearing an impeccably-correct black tie rig and then smugly cataloging the various sartorial faux pas you see.

 

[TimelesStyle]



On the contrary. I will notice, too.

You are overlooking one of the great joys of these events: Wearing an impeccably-correct black tie rig and then smugly cataloging the various sartorial faux pas you see.

In that case, I'm afraid the point of the event itself has probably been lost on you.

 

[Bounder]



In that case, I'm afraid the point of the event itself has probably been lost on you.

Well, we've got to get something for our five hundred bucks!

 

[CTLION]

The tuxedo is shaping up quite nicely:
Black Zegna Peak Lapel Tuxedo
Luxire Tuxedo Shirt (arrives this Thursday)
Black U-Shaped Waistcoat and Butterfly Bow tie (arrived today)

Shoes needed, but the tuxedo couldn't have come together any better. I am more than pleased with the outcome. I was a bit worried that the U-shaped waistcoat wouldn't come off.

 

[CTLION]

Tuxedo Complete one more question.

Zegna Black Peak Lapel Tuxedo
Silk Butterfly Bow tie with matching silk U shaped Waistcoat
Luxire Tuxedo Shirt
Black Onyx and silver Studs and Cufflinks
Velvet Magnanni Tuxedo Shoes

Questions: My wife is wearing a beautiful gold gown. I am wearing a black bow tie no matter what. What are your thought dropping the all white pocket square for a white pocket square with gold trim and perhaps adding gold studs and cufflinks to match her.

Any thoughts or should I stay with my current set-up?

Many thanks!

 

[TimelesStyle]



Tuxedo Complete one more question.

Zegna Black Peak Lapel Tuxedo
Silk Butterfly Bow tie with matching silk U shaped Waistcoat
Luxire Tuxedo Shirt
Black Onyx and silver Studs and Cufflinks
Velvet Magnanni Tuxedo Shoes

Questions: My wife is wearing a beautiful gold gown. I am wearing a black bow tie no matter what. What are your thought dropping the all white pocket square for a white pocket square with gold trim and perhaps adding gold studs and cufflinks to match her.

Any thoughts or should I stay with my current set-up?

Many thanks!

Don't think I'd go with any colors on the pocket square. As to the links/studs, are they actual sterling, or a white base metal? If the former, stick with what you've got, if the latter then gold plated is just fine and six of one/half-dozen of the other. But I wouldn't worry too much about matching on any level.