Tricker's quality?

[rabiesinfrance]

Don't get me wrong, I think Tricker's are 'ok' (I've owned a few pairs) but I have few concerns:

1. £185 for a re-sole (about £100 from other quality makers)
2. Don't use Itshide rubber soles, only commando (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney do)
3. No veldtschoen collection (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney do/did)
5. Don't used Horween cordovan, only Mogano shell (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney use it)
6. Dramatic increase in price over the last few years (were £270 in 2008, now £350)
7. Some retailers I've spoken to have expressed concern about leather quality
8. Brown zug grain is (or was) the same as that used on the old Sargent line, only they were £100 more
9. Don't really go in for burnishing their shoes (as C&J and other makers do)
10. Limited range of RTW styles and colours (they rely mainly on the country collection)

My Grasmere boots (three years old) crapped up last year and I sold them - leather had really deteriorated.

My Bourtons, in Marron Antique, have held up ok (four years old), but the leather has recently gone at the side.

I'm only looking at C&J Handgrade, the Handgrade Sargent stuff and Green now.

Shouldn't have to toss quality shoes after three years!

 

[JamesX]

I am not that experienced with Trickers since I only ever use their MTO service and only for their Jodepurs.

Their calf leather (at least for MTO) and worksmenship is good for the price (around 560 gbp). I have 3 pairs that I love.

 

[Marcellionheart]



Don't get me wrong, I think Tricker's are 'ok' (I've owned a few pairs) but I have few concerns:
1. £185 for a re-sole (about £100 from other quality makers)
2. Don't use Itshide rubber soles, only commando (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney do)
3. No veldtschoen collection (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney do/did)
5. Don't used Horween cordovan, only Mogano shell (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney use it)
6. Dramatic increase in price over the last few years (were £270 in 2008, now £350)
7. Some retailers I've spoken to have expressed concern about leather quality
8. Brown zug grain is (or was) the same as that used on the old Sargent line, only they were £100 more
9. Don't really go in for burnishing their shoes (as C&J and other makers do)
10. Limited range of RTW styles and colours (they rely mainly on the country collection)
My Grasmere boots (three years old) crapped up last year and I sold them - leather had really deteriorated.
My Bourtons, in Marron Antique, have held up ok (four years old), but the leather has recently gone at the side.
I'm only looking at C&J Handgrade, the Handgrade Sargent stuff and Green now.
Shouldn't have to toss quality shoes after three years!

1. Nothing to do with the quality of the boot; just get them resoled at a trusted cobbler.
2. I have found no quality difference between the Itshide Commando sole (which I have resoled my Indy boots to) and teh Dainite Commando sole I have on my trickers.
3. Again, this does not impact the quality of their line, only a lack thereof.
5. (well, you missed 4); They use horween cordovan: http://indigoshrimp.wordpress.com/2011/10/25/trickers-mahogany-shell-cordovan-stow-boots/
6. English shoe prices have increased dramatically across the board. It makes me sad, but it's true.
7. This point is really just "Some people say it's bad."
8. I don't know enough of this to comment.
9. Trickers aren't really a city kind of shoe. I know they have a city brand, but that's really not what the company goes for.
10. See point 9.

Edit: Tbh, I have never seen a pair of dead Trickers. I'd love to see your pics,

 

[rabiesinfrance]

I'll have think about those points.

The first Horween boots I've seen - good that they are using the best.

I suppose my worry is that they are putting up prices and correspondingly reducing overall quality (in order to compete).

I'll dig out a few photos (if I still have them). I went so far as to send my brown zug grain boots to Tricker's for assessment. They weren't very helpful: they suggested that I get them independently tested (at my own expense) to see if there was a problem with the leather, with no assurance that they would do anything about them even if a problem had been identified. In my case, the leather turned black where it scuffed or where there was any point of contact e.g. where the laces dug into the tongue. Bear in mind I looked after them properly: trees, regularly polished, etc.

Sargent also do/did an Anton Tan boot - looks very similar to C shade gorse. Do they use the same type of leather? Also:

http://www.afinepairofshoes.co.uk/collections/sanders-1/products/sanders-jude-dark-brown

Looks the same as the Grasmere to me.

At £350 a pair they should be a pair for life - if not that at least get at least 10 - 15 years out of them.

 

[hendrix]

It's true that their prices have increased recently, but certainly their leather and quality is excellent. The aniline leather is the nicest i've felt on any pair of shoes - thick and soft.

The country range is head and shoulders above other similar styles - e.g. Grenson (terrible), Loake (not bad for the price) Alden (QC issues) etc.

No experience with handgrade but it looks good and comparable to similar brands in the same price range.

 

[hendrix]

I don't know how you broke a pair after three years. I've had mine for nearly a year and i can't imagine them breaking.

 

[mrjamescost]

I don't know how you broke a pair after three years. I've had mine for nearly a year and i can't imagine them breaking.

And how about now?

 

[mrjamescost]

Don't get me wrong, I think Tricker's are 'ok' (I've owned a few pairs) but I have few concerns:

1. £185 for a re-sole (about £100 from other quality makers)
2. Don't use Itshide rubber soles, only commando (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney do)
3. No veldtschoen collection (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney do/did)
5. Don't used Horween cordovan, only Mogano shell (C&J, Sargent, Cheaney use it)
6. Dramatic increase in price over the last few years (were £270 in 2008, now £350)
7. Some retailers I've spoken to have expressed concern about leather quality
8. Brown zug grain is (or was) the same as that used on the old Sargent line, only they were £100 more
9. Don't really go in for burnishing their shoes (as C&J and other makers do)
10. Limited range of RTW styles and colours (they rely mainly on the country collection)

My Grasmere boots (three years old) crapped up last year and I sold them - leather had really deteriorated.

My Bourtons, in Marron Antique, have held up ok (four years old), but the leather has recently gone at the side.

I'm only looking at C&J Handgrade, the Handgrade Sargent stuff and Green now.

Shouldn't have to toss quality shoes after three years!

Out of curiosity, what is your attitude now? Thanks.

 

[Wingtip77]

I don't think there is any real issue quality wise, although I believe their sale and outlet shoes are made specifically for that purpose - slightly lesser quality to be sold at a lower price.

I'm not sure anybody thinks sleek and sophisticated when asked to describe Trickers footwear. They are designed for country wear, although these days they are more of a casual / street wear shoe or boot.

 

[mrjamescost]

I don't think there is any real issue quality wise, although I believe their sale and outlet shoes are made specifically for that purpose - slightly lesser quality to be sold at a lower price.

I'm not sure anybody thinks sleek and sophisticated when asked to describe Trickers footwear. They are designed for country wear, although these days they are more of a casual / street wear shoe or boot.

I find that the Outlet models (and those found on various websites at reduced prices) are perfectly good quality. However, I believe they are more designed to keep Tricker’s relevant than to make the big profits. For example, a person may discover Tricker’s by finding a pair of kudu shoes or boots at Flannels (etc), then set their eyes on a pair of black/dark brown/marron Woodstock/Burford/Stow/Bourton/Grassmere, which will usually only be found at full price. This is my experience, which many Tricker’s enthusiasts on the Tricker’s thread concur with.

 

[BigBadBernard]

I went to their factory last week, en route on a trip up the M1 to the north. Northampton in general is truly a dump.

If you go in through the front door rather than parking at the back, you get a walk through the factory floor on the way to the shop. The lady was very pleasant and informative - it was almost an impromptu tour! Obviously it is impossible to say from a quick walk round, but I was very impressed by the neat, well organised, and generally serious atmosphere on the shop floor.

Bought a pair of monks, which is my first pair of Trickers, so we’ll see how they go, but my first impressions are very positive.

 

[IJReilly]

I have owned three pairs. The first, a pair of country brogues (Bourton I believe). I ruined them by wearing them in harsh conditions and not treating them properly (I was ignorant at the time regarding salt and snow. There were not many good guides back then!). I think they lasted four years?

I currently own a pair of dark brown oxfords. I have used these sparingly and only in gentle conditions. I have gotten better at shoe care and it has paid off. They look amazing now after five years, with a gentle patina and natural shine with only a little shoe cream.

The last pair is a grain leather boot with a commando sole. The leather feels a bit waxy. They are extremely rugged, but I think they are pretty cool to wear with suits in the winter (if you show that you value practicality over tradition and aesthetics, suits suddenly don't feel so stiff and formal anymore). They might be called Grasmere? I've absolutely tortured these things since 2012. They are the only shoes I use outside during winter. I give them some care halfway through the winter and at the end. They look like new and have never had to be resoled, or any kind of repair work. Extremely impressed with their performance.

In general I think Tricker's is really good value for money, but their aesthetics are usually a bit to clumsy and rugged for my taste so in the end I prefer Alden despite that fact that the are so ridiculously expensive in Europe that it is sometimes literally cheaper to just fly to NYC and go buy a pair.

 

[Skanstull]

I have owned three pairs. The first, a pair of country brogues (Bourton I believe). I ruined them by wearing them in harsh conditions and not treating them properly (I was ignorant at the time regarding salt and snow. There were not many good guides back then!). I think they lasted four years?

What happened to them? I have several pairs of shoes (C&J's though, not that it should matter) that have survived 10+ Swedish winters, only protected by thin Topy's...

 

[IJReilly]

What happened to them? I have several pairs of shoes (C&J's though, not that it should matter) that have survived 10+ Swedish winters, only protected by thin Topy's...

The leather dried out and cracked where the foot flexes. I now understand that I used way to much wax, way to little renovateur, wiped the salt off them to seldomly and just used them a lot. They were my first fine pair of shoes. The dainite sole was never an issue.

Now I use double leather soled Alden cordovan shoes for winter days when I don’t want to wear huge boots (the commando sole also drags in lots of dirt, not a great way to start a meeting!). But the Grasmeres are my main winter shoes and I love them.

 

[Skanstull]

The leather dried out and cracked where the foot flexes. I now understand that I used way to much wax, way to little renovateur, wiped the salt off them to seldomly and just used them a lot. They were my first fine pair of shoes. The dainite sole was never an issue.

Now I use double leather soled Alden cordovan shoes for winter days when I don’t want to wear huge boots (the commando sole also drags in lots of dirt, not a great way to start a meeting!). But the Grasmeres are my main winter shoes and I love them.

Ok!